B. Rogers

The Tre Spade Continuous Feed Manual Tomato Mill promises to do what you are asking.  i have used a "Squizo" food processor that looks very similar.

I use old carboys to make cider: apple, pear, grape and peach! Could call them sparkling wines? Once fermented carboys keep still juices (wines?) for at least a year or two until it's time to add a bit of sugar and syphon it into bottles. Then a few weeks more until there's enough bubbles! Bottled ciders then last years! I used to brew beer and ales in them too! Below are two 5 gallon batches of peach juice becoming peach cider.

For years we've tried to maintain our 20x48 foot greenhouse above freezing throughout the winter but lose this battle every year by single degrees. We live near the junction of NY, MA and VT so it can get pretty cold. We do grow salad greens, onions and herbs through the winter but have not succeeded in keeping tomatoes, sweet potatoes, cukes and squash alive. Our fig tree does lose its leaves but it grows stronger every year and produces amazing quantities of fruit. I rushed fabricating a batch rocket mass heater this fall but some -20 degree nights in December killed tender plants before I finished it. I did finish it in January and it performed well during another -20F high wind period and this time temperatures inside did not go below 38F but the plants did not perk up!

For four decades we've heated our home exclusively by burning wood in our kitchen stove that has an ash bin that we empty once a week. A decade ago we also had to replace the iron grate above the ash bin because it burned away. I replaced it with stainless steel pipes that are very easy to keep open to enable ash to fall through so I incorporated pipes above an ash bin in the greenhouse batch rocket mass heater. In both our kitchen stove and in the greenhouse heater, the stainless pipes admit secondary air (p-channel) that both warms the air and cools the metal. Since we have been using many dozen eight foot tall by one foot diameter fiberglass tanks in our greenhouse for the sun to warm up during the day we incorporated lots of these as thermal mass of the rocket heater. Those surrounding the barrels around the riser get pretty warm during an hour burn and do a pretty good job keeping the greenhouse warm overnight.

"The only organic thing to go to the dump is chicken feathers from butchering and bones that have been boiled to get the stock out of them."

We accumulate food waste that the worms don't eat or are inappropriate for composting like poultry and fish bones, trapped rodents, butchering scraps like skins, entrails, feathers and heads in bags kept in the freezer. Every three months or so when they become enough to fill a large pressure canner we add a quart or two of water and process them at 15-20 pounds steam pressure for a half hour. After cooling we use a meat grinder to reduce it all to "dog food" but also appropriate for chickens. The seven or eight quart yoghurt containers the output fills looks and smells just like some typical canned dog food. Our dog likes cleaning the equipment and the containers take up ever less room in the freezer as they are used one by one as topping on dry dog kibble. We used to include egg shells and shrimp casings but now dehydrate these, use a food processor to reduce these and add the powder to the worm bins.

Problem #1:  What I'd love to do is find an efficient way to separate the juice from the pulp.  I've put it in a fine mesh strainer and been able to get much of the juice and pulp separated but it's time consuming.  The advantage is that the pulp can go sauce and the juice can go into tomato soup.  Less boiling to get the pulp thick enough.  Any ideas for a way to separate them efficiently?

My tomato canning task has evolved into a few simple tasks:
1. Process them through a Squeezo ( looks like the photo in the initial post) that separates pulp/juice from skin and seeds,
2. Run the latter through again to extract the last bit of good stuff,
3. While bringing a large pot of the juice/pulp to a boil, add chopped basil, garlic and oregano and let boil for 10 minutes, then cool for twenty minutes, or so: boiling bubbles force too much pulp into the soup stock but if you want some in, do wile boiling,
4. Insert a colander or other vessel with lots of small holes in the pot and ladle out the clear liquid that flows into the vessel,
5. Fill quart jars with this "soup stock",
6. When the vessel no longer sinks into the thick sauce, remove it and ladle the sauce into their own jars,
7. Use a steam canner to process all of the above (I process seven or eight jars at a time throughout the above steps).
I illustrated most steps in: https://sunsavingfossils.blogspot.com/2017/09/processing-tomatoes.html

Had a wonderful year raising monarch caterpillars (388 resulting butterflies tagged and released) along with 181 wild caught butterflies. Fewer than 1% of monarch tags ever get recovered and reported so we expect to learn what happened to maybe four or five. One has already been reported in North Carolina that is many hundreds of miles south of us i(where NY, VT & MA meet).
Some lessons learned:
1. Caterpillars have lots of enemies: sucking critters like stinkbugs and spiders; Raising them inside behind a bright window boosts their rate of survival.
2. Feed caterpillars sprigs of fresh milkweed every day but wedge in flexible foam above water to keep leaves vibrant (otherwise caterpillars can sink and drown);
3. Periodically harvest a quarter of outdoor milkweed patches to promote new growth: all but a few of our caterpillars originated on plants less than three weeks old. Thousand of older milkweeds never had a caterpillar!
4. Chrysalises must hang from a horizontal surface: emerging butterflies can't develop flat wings unless they can hang them straight down as they harden. Glue loose chrysalises to toothpicks and suspend them from a wood "tree" (use wood glue: hot melt glue will cook them)
5. If they are not ready to fly, release butterflies on the leeward side of the trunk of a tree or other stable surface.  Breezes may make them fall if placed on swinging branches or flexible plants.
6. Tags for the underside of a rear wing may be purchased from: https://monarchwatch.org/ and this organization will keep you informed of reported sightings of those you tag. They also have lots of information on Monarchs and their food.

This Fokin ploskorez hoe by Ecominded looks like a wonderful tool for weeding and bed prep!

This Fokin hoe sure looks like it does a good job cleaning up weeds and preparing beds!

Sounds like fun! It's cold outside and writing a letter by the stove is inviting.

I've been harvesting chestnuts for a few decades and every year I plant 50 of the largest nuts. Since they don't stay viable very long, I intersperse them among garlic as I pant those cloves in October since rodents tend not to mess with them. Typically only six to ten chestnuts sprout the following spring and make it into July at when I move them into hedgerows. Some of the trees are now more than 10 years old and produce a few pounds of these wonderful nuts: more each year. Each tiny tree needs its own circle of fence to keep deer from browsing leaves and twigs and rodents from nibbling bark off the  trunk. This fencing can be dedicated to new trees once the trunk is about four inches in diameter (and the lower branches are above deer height}.