T Adey

Hi there.
Im in the process of building a timberframe strawbale house. Its actually a rebuilding of a old Portuguese Xisto (shale/slate) barn. The ground floor is in stone that been restored and a ring beam added, and then a timberframe  built from sweet chestnut reclaimed from the wildfires.

There are a few details that im struggling to find information/ conflicting information about and I will add pictures to try and explain more.

#1 I will use a metal plaster stop at the base of the wall that is attached to the external toe up. How important is it that this stop and therefor the plaster itself is resting on the foundation underneath, rather than extending out from the wall the thickness of the plaster. In other words, that the toe up is recessed the thickness of the plaster and not flush with foundation wall.

Ive seen from some sources that in the case of load bearing walls the plaster itself plays a big part in the structural strength of the wall, and that it is important that this rest on the foundation.  But other sources and pictures that dont care for this, more so on strawbale infill.

#2 Between the two toeup beams i will be putting Leca, (expanded clay balls) this should be somewhat insulative and stop any water wicking up into the bale. I will put a damp proof course between the stone / concrete foundation and the toe up beams to preserve the wood, but between the two beams I was originally thinking to leave open.

Many sources i have found advocate for a membrane or waterproofing to be but accross the whole foundation, but this to me seems to counter productive as any water or moisture that may make its way to this point, will then be trapped. Its better to gone down into the foundation wall than just sit inside that cavity next to toeups.

Does this make sense, or am i missing something here.

Thankyou for any advice and comments.

Ive managed to find some oxygen based cleaner (here in Portugal) which is also reported to be safe for the environment.

Thanks for all you replies. I was really struggling to find good information, but knew there must be plenty of people doing /thinking about less toxic methods.

Anne Miller wrote:

T Adey wrote:

Anne Miller wrote:Why would you feel this would ...

T said, "negatively affect my offgrid water treatment or the environment

Alot of standard sanitizing products are Chlorine based.

The permies forum is organic or better so I would hope that no one would suggest such a thing!
.

Obviously, thats why im lookig for alternatives.

Anne Miller wrote:Are you talking about bottles and jars? Airlocks?

Why would you feel this would ...

T said, "negatively affect my offgrid water treatment or the environment

Alot of standard sanitizing products are Chlorine based.

Ive been brewing some meads and ciders and ginger beers and they are going well.

But everytime I clean i use boiling water to sterilise the equipment.

Is there a simpler more energy efficient technique for sterilization that wont negatively affect my offgrid water treatment or the environment?  

Hi. I recently posted about my spring project. Im getting to the point if collecting materials.

All articles i have seen have suggested back filling with gravel.

For my situation, getting gravel on site will be extremely difficult. I have access to expanded clay balls. Much lighter and easier to carry.

Would these work?

Would they break down too much?

Develop to much bacteria?

Or are there any other lighter alternatives to gravel?

Thankyou for your replies.

The PDF is really interesting.

Here is a basic sketch of my idea.

Im thinking that because im not so bothered about flow rate that the pipe diameter is not so important? Not sure.

Hi.

Firstly thankyou everyone for this amazing resource.

Me and my partner have just bought some land in Portugal.

I have found a spring, and am wanting to tap it for water.

I am slowly trauling through spring box construction posts and videos and think I have my head around that.

But what im planning to do with the water I have not found anywhere (maybe due to a lack of correct terminology while searching).

The land is in a valley and consisting of both sides of said valley. One side heavily terrested and with ruins for reconstruction. The other with a forrested area (unfortunately hit heavily by the 2017 fires).

The spring is situated on the forested side of the valley conveniently at a simlar level (I would estimate an elevation of around 35 meters from the bottom of the valley).

I plan on collecting the water close to the spring in a tank, probably an IBC, and running a pipe down the valley and back up the otherside into another IBC at the same elevation.

The distance for the pipe will be aproximately 120 meters

In my head, both should fill equally. Simple.
Have I overlooked something?
How important is the pipe diameter?
Would a tap at the bottom be advantageous for air trappment?

I made need to prime the system with some kind  pump, but im not sure.

All theory but excited to try it.
Seems maybe too simple.

Would love any input.

Cheers.