Nancy Reading wrote:
Sam Shade wrote:I want to remove the privet that crowds the south-facing perimeter of my pond, but I do value the erosion control provided by those tenacious and expansive root systems.
So this is a south facing bank? Is it the slope that makes it an erosion risk? How wet? I'm just trying to visualise the layout. I'd plant cardoon and globe artichoke in well drained areas rather than by a pond, but my summer is probably a lot cooler than yours.
Scorzonera (black salsify or Scorzonera hispanica) had very tasty leaves and dandelion like flowers on long stems - it also has a long tap root, which may be good for erosion control. Sweet Cicely (Myrrhis odorata) is a pretty umbellifera beloved of insects, maybe a bit wild looking, but has tasty sweet aniseed flavoured seeds when picked green. long spreading roots like rhubarb, but a little smaller perhaps. The leaves go well with rhubarb as it really does reduce the amount of sugar to make the rhubarb palatable. Day lillies have pretty tough root systems I believe and are also very ornamental.
Timothy Norton wrote:A potential fun and classic erosion control plant that surprisingly is edible (to me at least) would be cat-tails but they do get tall. You could use them towards the edges of the field of view? You would need to do some management of them but they produce good biomass.
Jill Dyer wrote:Asparagus? Grows from seed (slow) or 'crowns' - Takes 3 seasons to establish to the point of cutting spears for eating though. Up to 1 metre tall feathery stalks when left to grow - necessary to allow some to provide energy for the next crop. Most things leave it alone, but the berries can spread about.
Maybe rhubarb - that loves a damp/wet spot and the roots go on forever.
Anne Miller wrote:Vetiver is usually recommended for erosion control. It has deep roots and also makes a mass.
Here are some threads to introduce vetiver for you or others:
https://permies.com/t/26103/Feedback-vetiver
https://permies.com/t/241423/Vetiver-grass-experiences-buy
Alfalfa is another good choice as the tap root can go down as far as 15 feet.
jeramiah morgan wrote:Russian blocking 13 is supposed to be good forage through winter. I'm going to order a bunch for my new herd. Pigeon pea is their favorite right now. But they love moringa snacks too.
Rick Valley wrote:Goats are grazers? Eh wot? Traditionally aren't rocky upland situations the norm for Caprines? I'd figure on any woody shrub-type N-fixers that are growable in yr. zone, with a diverse grass/broadleaf mix in between & below. Lots of good suggestions are posted. I really like goats, in all ways, and have enjoyed them when I was directly involved. I once saw a setup that had a rock pile that sheltered rabbits, (semi-wild) and gave the goats enough climbing to keep their hooves trim
Nancy Reading wrote:This is a great projeazct Sam! I hope it all can be made to work for you. I suspect you may find that the size of the forage areas for the different seasons may need to be different sizes to reflect the food availability. It would be nice if an evergreen that needed hedge pruning for good flower/fruit production would be suitable in your area, but there is still some food value in young twigs of many trees I think.
I did a pfaf search hoping that a nice evergreen legume like tagaste would pop out, and it did come up with blue leaved wattle/orange wattle (Acacia saligna) I don't know if that is a possibility perhaps? Maybe more interestingly it came up with several bamboo species including river cane. I'm not sure whether the canes would still have food value in winter though? In spring the new shoots would be close to the ground so again not so useful...
Bridget Vandel wrote:Perhaps willow? I'm from the great white north so I don't know what stays green for you.