G Fischer

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since Jan 09, 2014
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Biography
40 years in many trades(mainly carpenter, metal fabrication, and climbing  communication towers), engineering and creating my world since youth, always trying to improve and teach green technologies as well as on/off grid lifestyles, love and teach RMHs, love learning, creating, and researching. Worked and/or lived in 33 states.
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Recent posts by G Fischer

Great sand bucket idea. I usually hand clean gardening tools, sand and oil handles, and even edge shovel edges for root cutting.

I’m an “about every trade” guy. So welder gets wiped, welder spool felt gets checked, lots of tool puttering happens actually all year long. You don’t have break downs as often with maintenance.
I actually have maintenance reminders on my digital calendars for truck maintenance, certain tools, house filters, etc.,… I also have a 4 month reminder to actuate all valves in the house and shop. I never get stuck valves, any more, when it’s important for them to work.

May sound anal, but I have found when I make things part of a routine it’s a lot less of a chore or costly, later. And I get much quicker at each to where it doesn’t annoy me. And have more time to learn other things, with out a real break down that could take a day or two to fix.

I use palm or belt sanders, grinders, and knife stones for sharpening. I melt "all food grade: beeswax and carnuba with mineral oil (22% / 3% / 75%) in my "tool" crockpot, for handles, metal surfaces of plant tools, and cutting boards. On non-plant tools I use "Red N' Tacky" to wipe most metals surfaces and joints for storing.

Just my two dollars. (2 cents doesn’t cut it anymore)
😁😁😁
7 months ago
I’ve worked construction and played in winter for 30+ years. My go to are wicking sock liners and thick wool socks (70%+ wool mix). Stay away from cotton of most all clothing in winter, as it will hold moisture and make you cold. Wet in winter is trouble.

Biggest secret I’ve come across in 20+ years, came from ice fishing in -15*. You move a bit and create moisture, then sit, for hours. Moisture can build up, and sit around the foot bed. Get it away from your foot! We learned to place a FEMININE PAD (heavy flow) under foot bed of at front of boot, as toes are the place moisture stays most. On long days it works very very well, and can change out pretty easily.

Laugh, until you try it. Like I said, 20+ years.
I use to work on communication towers in winter. Not going to be sock changing up top, so you better learn the best everything techniques and clothing for that kind of extreme cold.

Be warm and safe. All my best!
1 year ago
I like my teas, and eating healthier. I have worked outdoors most of my life, and I might get a cold from being around groups every 3-4 years, that dissipates very quickly. I DON’T care for anytime I’m off my game, more than many.

I drink ginger tea with echinacea, with a splash of elderberry, about 2-3 times per week.

Different Chai s with additives. Echinacea, splash elderberry, ginger, taken with zinc. What ever floats your taste at the moment.

Another favorite White Pine needle tea with honey and lemon, for big doses of vitamin C, about 6-7 in a week.

I never made it to being part of coffee generation. Grew up around an entire tea family.
I take good vitamins. And zinc about 2-3 times per week. Always seem to be cooking with fresh garlic or in salads.

These and outdoor work, including shoveling, here in the north, keep me going well through the years. And seems no reason to change this routine. I don’t do store bought cold fixes, other than vitamins and zinc. Different strains will come and go. You visit through them, you usually get more immune. My two cents?

To your health! Hope you feel better.
1 year ago
I used a RMH in Missouri to heat a log cabin on two five gallon buckets of forest scraps to 65* a night in winter. I tried to teach many folks that asked to see it and offered to help. I’m learning the majority want things done for them. Like, I build it, feed it and clean it for them?? I see that in many other tasks and aspects all around me.

My thoughts on “a RMH or a gas heater”? Both if you already have gas. Use gas as a back up for a vacation, or anytime you’re not around. It’s there and ready, already waiting in the background. Just a much much lower bill.

One of my discoveries lately, as my roommate works for a catalyst company for burning chemicals off for industries. They create a kind of catalytic converter and blast furnace everything across it and out, using extreme amounts of gas, fast.
If it was designed like an RMH and held the fumes and heat longer in an upward burn, an RMH technique, think how much gas they would save, in the same way, and be cleaner coming out, with less effort as well. If this took off across industries and people found out where the idea came from, an RMH, I would think that would make serious reputation in energy news. I think industries burn a bit more than the equal of homes do, so cutting their mass use helps save for home use.

Just my 2 cents?

Guy
3 years ago
An idea I played with since the mid ‘90’s, more for city/suburbia, and was able to test in college, green energies, was “second layering”. A second roof or wall, atop or in front of any thing getting sun. A roof 2-3” over a peak roof, by placing say 2x3s over existing plywood, that has been radiant painted, and adding another layer of plywood or metal roof, vented at the bottom and top, and peek vented. Similar method on sun faced walls. Passive cooling shading, with no radiant pass through. It made a huge difference.
I have seen drawings of this hinted, online, every once in a moon. I lived in north Mojave for a while, where many mobile homes would put a giant carport over a double wide for shading. I was a carpenter on the north shore of Chicago, when thought of, and wondered how much energy this would have saved, cities wide. Most, just shrugged, at the idea, “too expensive, for the second layer.” There are always ways to learn how to take a good idea and make it less expensive. That’s why sites like this exist.
I have been learning since then about more off-grid living(thatch and growing roofs) and all kinds of better ideas across the board. But still think this concept would really help more city/suburbia areas, that don’t do much of anything, but A/C and cutting down their “dirty trees”.

Not the most economic solution for some, but did get me an accommodation and top of class in college, in my 40’s. Hope this may help, inspire a better concept.
4 years ago
William: That's kind of where I got it. BUT, vehicles usually have unburned fuels/fumes (inefficient as they are), where these guys (RMHs) don't have much except like Cindy says.

Cindy: Just wanted to try an all burn/no exhaust. Say, for an apartment that you couldn't have a vertical or horizontal stack drilled exhaust hole into the wall.
If a way to really have no exhaust. But, I do very well understand that at low draw/ending burns you wouldn't have the great draw to pull the exhaust back in
any more, and would have to figure out that stage or you would still need an exhaust vent.

I was just trying to see how feasible it would be, or even worthwhile enough, trying it. Will continue to mess with the idea. Makes the world go round. (Ha ha)

I am sure someday, in the not so far future, wood burners will get there.
Look how close RMH's come to it, now. ; )

11 years ago

Don't have an emissions tester to check out everything happening with the burn. Mentioned to Matt at Walker Stoves.

Just came back with the pipes, off the horizontal runs, back to intake. Mix of fresh and exhaust (mostly fresh, of course)
Shows no apparent side affects yet. But, I am looking for more investigation, as I continue with it.

Just wanted to see how the left over low emissions effected the total burn, if someone had a tester. Dirtier burn?

Can't beat recirculating the emissions for environmental effect. (I think, so far?)

Anyone try? Tested?
11 years ago
Will do "Direct" pic links next time. Thanks.

And Thanks, Burra, for pulling them up correctly.
I listed the post on Newbie Greeting in Rocket Stoves with the specs
to my system, if anyone could help me figure out any possible problem
spots, we'd really appreciate it.

I plan on trying many different variations this spring, to find a favorite
style or best/steady running.

Thanks, Guy
11 years ago
Thanks for replies. Nice to meet you both.

My system starts all brick, like so many seen, and is 4.5" dia. I then
have a 6" steel riser, 11 3/4 tin insulating cover, with vermiculite/slip
insulation, a 40" high propane bell with removable top that is lipped
and sealed with fiberglass rope

(Yes, I smoke checked the top for leakage. Don't see minute leakage,
through the rope fibers at this seal, as a big deal on a down draft system this low on flow.)

Thanks for any future input!

Here are pics on my general combustion area:







11 years ago
Gave up on trying to find help "without a credit card".

using the 9" high feeder tube as a preheater and smoke catch for "ANY" back feed, as I have
sealed it shut all the way around. I went to a 2 inch high block off the base to hold coals and
feed horizontally = Absolute steady flow, No smoke, and twice the heat on top now.

I could never get my horizontal flowing enough without a vertical stack. That's also gone and hard
to touch the horizontal exhaust. I haven't cobbed all of the thermal engine or any of the exhaust
until I was sure I had good heat and flow. Will be adding the foot-foot and a half cobbing all around
now!

About as easy to feed as the vertical, but took away half the guessing.

Let alone wasting all that money on swapping different tin and pipe sizes, to figure out the smoke back!
I am a steel worker, scrounging for every hour pay I can get, and needing every dime I can muster, in
this greedy corrupt time, to just keep shelling out money aimlessly, on guess work.

Hope this helps a bunch looking for help having had to aimlessly guess like I did.

Need help? I'll give you all I can and sites I found. I won't leave you hanging, either.
AND "No Credit Card First. FREE or return a favor.

Happy New Year!
11 years ago