Ben Zumeta

I see biochar’s value as utilizing and sequestering excessive ladder fuels from regrowing forests with the majority of trees destined to die young due to competition and forest succession. I would not pay for the material to make it, except for help with labor. Charcoal briquettes will likely lose much of their carbon and turn too much to ash in the process of burning off often toxic chemicals in them to make them viable in the garden or for filtration.

I would add tree collards. Very nutritious and tasty. Zone 7+, grows 5x+ annually even with steady daily harvest. I have some that will grow as tall as I can trellis them (8ft+). They are my favorite greens, and are at their best in winter. The only time they are not abundant is when snow makes them the only food available for birds, which eat them down to the stem. They come right back though once its above freezing. It is also very easy to propagate then with cuttings, but they never seem to bolt or go to seed after 6yrs here.

Many good suggestions above. If this 10x food cost scenario happens, the wheels have come off the bus. One of the holistic context questions comes to mind:

How can I be someone my community will support through thick and thin?

Helping neighbors avoid desperation, and keeping good relationships with them will be paramount in addition to growing food for ourselves.

I concur with observing for a year. During this first year I would create as much johnson su style compost as possible and at least one substantial air pruned nursery bed (I used Akiva Silver’s video). I’d collect seeds, cuttings, and perennial plants in the nursery bed for planting out when observation will have provided a much better idea of how the land behaves in varying weather. I would then start to consider how the main existing access paths and roads as well as structures’ rooves can be used as water management opportunities.

Good question, as it is a matter of cyclical feedback processes. I would figure how the Amazonians did it worked pretty well.

We have had dozens of paid interns and volunteers, as well as several employees with varying versions of my old position. Most interns are Del Norte High or College of the Redwoods students. The green house is mainly for starting annuals, with a portion dedicated to warm weather crops grown in soil.

I have made some Spring video tours of the Crescent City Food Forest and Old Growth Edible Landscapes' HQ (our place), in part as promotion for my upcoming workshop series (https://permies.com/t/369940/Salvaging-Abundance-part-Community-Permaculture). Feel free to share. Things are in bloom and many helpers are all around the sites:

Crescent City Food Forest tour link:
https://youtu.be/blqj0LT58GI

Old Growth Edible Landscapes tour link:
https://youtu.be/cC0w-idW7m0

Workshop Signup:
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScz2jCAddB25Fbyzmcfc4QxofPOL5qOQU9oS8nmQ2xkyoDTSQ/viewform

I also do not crush unless mixing into potting soil or seed starting mix, when I sift it to 1/4”. Biochar is quite brittle, and will break down with foot traffic from people and animals. It also breaks down as birds, worms and others eat it. Heavy rain can also do quite a bit, and I think it may be adapted to hold soil together as it gets caught in post fire floods. Coarse woody debris also holds water exponentially longer with volume. In August, 75% of the water available to plants in an old growth PNW temperate rainforest is in very large pieces of dead wood.

I have looked at biochar under a microscope and it looks like a black hole, so I am wondering how folks above checked for inoculation?

I like the main idea. However, Is a gravity fed tank not possible? I would avoid relying on anything that could burn, melt, fail mechanically or require refueling if possible. I would also try to wet any decks or other burnable structures near the house. Decks are behind only roof, eaves and attics as fire vectors. I am also looking for old wool rugs or the like to have rolled up above my attached-garage door and attached carport openings, with a soaker hose at the top, with a similar timer setup. I would unroll and set timers upon evacuation.