Phil Swindler

David Jenkins wrote:I need some 55 gall barrels where can I get some 4062400890

Anyone near Wichita, KS - there is a place on south Hydraulic near 63rd that sells food grade barrels.  They have 55 gal and 30 gal, both plastic and metal.  Couldn't tell you the prices.

What do you call a group of 8 hobbits?


A hobbyte.

Do you know how rare it is for a cow to be struck by lightening?


Medium Rare.

My uncle Glenn was a contractor.  He built the last 3 or 4 houses he and my aunt lived in.  The last one had an unusual floor plan.  The foundation was an equilateral triangle.  The roof was 2 triangles with the long sides meeting at the ridge-line.  2 corners were 2 stories tall and the 3rd corner was 1 story tall.  The 1 story corner had the kitchen.  My aunt loved that kitchen.  She said it had must as much counter and cabinet space as a square kitchen.  But, being a triangle there were fewer steps involved when working in that kitchen.
Years after my aunt and uncle's passing my brother and his wife had the chance to buy that house.  They did and got it back in the family for awhile.

https://www.google.com/maps/place/490+Dolphin+Ave+NE,+Ocean+Shores,+WA+98569/@46.9975406,-124.1541763,19z/data=!4m6!3m5!1s0x549241f32fa5962d:0xbf4e516a196b7ccc!8m2!3d46.9975406!4d-124.1535326!16s%2Fg%2F11c2j1krcs?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI2MDUwMi4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D

Phil Stevens wrote:Reducing speed is a big factor. Once you get above 80 km/hr (50 mph) the penalty imposed by wind resistance really kicks in, and it goes up exponentially.              

Absolutely correct.  That exponent varies from vehicle to vehicle.  But, 10% faster results in more than a 10% increase in wind resistance.
Plus there's the safety factor.  The faster you drive, the less reaction time you have.  And kinetic energy is an exponential function.  In an accident that increased kinetic energy has to go somewhere, like you and your vehicle.  So if you are driving faster, you are more likely to get in an accident.  And, the accident is more likely to cause bodily harm.

Mary Cook wrote:I really disagree with Brandon. Some people's situation won't accommodate solar, but the idea that you have to nix out your power bills within a few years for it to be worth it...is going to look very quaint in a few years when solar panels may not be available or affordable--unless you live in China, maybe--and the grid may be going down more often, grid power may be climbing rapidly in price...whereas panels are quite cheap now. The whole system, especially if you go off-grid, is not so cheap, especially if you have to pay expert installers and red tape fees, but could well be worth it.

I lean more to Mary's side.
We put solar panels on our roof in 2020.  Most months the payment for the panels plus the little electric bill we have left is smaller than our electric bill had been.  Year total is a little smaller than the electric bill by itself had been.  Every time they increase electric rates the further ahead we will be.  In 14 years when the system is paid off we will be way ahead.

Thekla McDaniels wrote:All this incredibly beautiful wood work!

What ever do people put on the wood as finish?

I just received a new and unfinished spinning wheel and I have no idea what kind of finish to use.

Can anyone direct me to beautiful nontoxic durable wood finish, for indoor use?

Is Danish oil or tung oil appropriate?

Many thanks

There are several options.
Danish oil is a mix of natural and synthetic finishes.  So, it depends on how set you are on using a natural finish.
Tung oil is a great finish if you can find a relative pure brand.  The quick drying tung oils usually have something else mixed in to speed the drying.  Stumpy Nubbs has a good video on Tung oil.  I used Tung oil on a wooden cane about 40 years ago and it is still doing fine.  It took several coats and weeks to fully cure.
Linseed oil is also natural.  Naturally boiled is much healthier than chemically boiled, but, it is slower to cure and harder to find.  I believe Stumpy Nubbs also has a video on linseed oil.
I've used mineral oil on wood.  It doesn't really cure and takes awhile to soak in.  Not sure I'd use it unless you're prepared to wait months for several costs to absorb.
Shellac is natural.  I have 2 different shades in my finish cabinet.  A second coat or touch up spots dissolve and mix with the previous layers.  This makes touch up and damage repair blend in better than lots of other finishes.  Yes, Stumpy Nubbs has a video on shellac too.
This is just the tip of the iceberg, but, I hope it helps.

John F Dean wrote:This sentence contains exactly threee erors.

Had to think about that 3rd one.