Gerry Parent

Peter van den Berg wrote:This is the lining on the inside of the bell. This is where the greatest thermal load is expected in the bell, hence the extra protection. As a hindsight, it could have been one brick higher....

Splendid Peter! Thank you for documenting this build so that it can be a bookmark for future builders to reference...... and a delight for us that have worked on a similar contraption with the same enthusiasm.
Question: Curious why the ceiling of the bell had regular bricks instead of firebricks, especially right above the riser exhaust port?
Also, I noticed a latch on the door which appears to do something for the air inlet flapper. Is it to lock the flapper closed when the fire is out?

Thanks Peter for posting another one of your builds as we watch it come to life.
Several things in particular I like about this build are the high door and chamfered corner edges.
I'm assuming a steel plate was used to bridge the opening to the exhaust port?
Looking forward to seeing part 2 of the build.

Hi Sunny,
A lot of woodstoves have a firebrick liner that both protects the metal body of the stove and helps to hold some heat as thermal mass.
They are considered a wearable part that need to be replaced every so often. Yours look like they fit this bill.
You can purchase firebrick 'splits' at hardware stores, masonry yards, woodstove shops, online.....  

What a wonderful house warming celebration to have in your new location!  I'm a bit jealous :)

jordan barton wrote:So spent the day making up cob to seal up the feedtube/burn tunnel. Spent quite some time coming up with the best method for cutting the ceramic wool. I wish it came in different sizes, as I end up with a bunch of offcuts. 8" x 15", 8" x 12". Hope they are useful in the future.

What method did you find worked best to cut the wool?
I wouldn't look past butting up two pieces to cover a larger area. Smaller ones make great gasket material.  

jordan barton wrote: Luckily I was able to find the perfect soil for making the cob. I didn't need to screen it or add anything, besides the wheat straw. I usually look for soil that has bug holes in it on the surface. I imagine its mason bee holes, but its probably not. Eitherway I enjoy looking for good soil.

Interesting observation looking for bug holes to locate clay rich soil. Each area has its own tells.....looks like you found yours.

That's one thing I really love about these stoves is that they are so flexible to meet your current needs and adaptable to expand into new ones.
Good luck with the rest of your move and getting your J back in operation.

Hey Jordan,
Nice rebuild with all the same materials....even the mud! (reminds me too of the good ole days where local clay or even purchased was hard to find for a Canuck).
Happy to see that your still enjoying your J tube where the urge to switch (maybe later for lack of time right now?) to a different style didn't sway you.
 
Question: In one of your teardown photos, it appeared that the plunge tube in the bell was not insulated. Did you find having the exhaust absorbing the heat necessary for better draft or just didn't have enough room in your tiny home to keep it entirely out of the bell?

Most welders have a chart that gives recommendations for wire speed and amps for the thickness of the metal your working with.
Other than that, watching some videos and experimenting on a scrap piece will teach you lots.

Thanks for the update Matthias.
Always good to hear back on an experiment.....good or bad.
In your case, I'd call it a success.
Nice stove by the way.  

kees ijpelaar wrote:I did test the rocket with wood, it did blow back, and was not without smell.

I did test it without a shimney so I think I do need really a shimney to let it
word properly, wind blows into the connection now.

is this the problem with smoke is visible.

https://youtu.be/GIhaeVGO5pA

regards

Hi Kees,

Although the stove will operate without a chimney, it will definitely improve with one. Smoke and smell will go away and the fire should blaze much stronger with the added draft.
Side note: If you were to remove the barrel covering the heat riser, the same thing would happen. This proves that its not the stove core that's burning inefficiently, but rather the change in direction of the exhaust that put friction on the gas flow and slowing the combustion to not achieve clean burning rocket speeds.