wolfmtn McCoy

if we're talking about portable sawmills, i thought i would mention the fabulous "alaskan chainsaw mill" that is the ultimate in portability.

1) if ur not going to be cutting a massive amount of lumber it is the best bang for your buck.

2) take the mill to the log.  u don't have to skid logs out to the mill.  u mill where the tree falls.  no damage to the forest floor to cause erosion. no damage to other trees as ur equipment or horse bang into them on the way out.  can cut on VERY steep ground.

3) can cut boards of unlimited length

4) can cut MUCH wider logs than bandsaw.  cutting width is about 8" less than the total bar length.  my longest bar is 50" long and i can cut 42" live edged slabs.  watch of nakashima!

5) very physical work; no need to go to the gym and pump iron.  i see this as a plus, not everyone will i suppose.

disadvantages
1) loud and dirty/breath fumes
2) wide kerf, more wasted wood
3) uses lots of fuel and mix oil
4) much slower than other methods


if ur curious about how it works:

www.nicksportablesawmill.com

there are lots of you tubes of alaskan mills

old timers where i am say that eastern red cedar lasts longer than locust when in contact with the ground?  observations/opinions?

LOCUST: i love singing the praises of locust.  i think it is one of the most under-apprectiated trees out there. above and beyond fence posts, which everyone seems to know about, the wood is fabulous for building.  it's the second hardest wood in north america second only to osage orange.  i mill my own lumber and even though it is very slow to cut, it makes awesome lumber and is worth the time and effort.  forget nailing it even when it's green.  u have to drill it.  and even then it will bend the thickest nails if ur hole is drilled too small. turners love it, too.

POPLAR: it's the softest of all the "hardwood" in north america. excellent framing lumber. strong, light, fast growing and usually grows straight as an arrow.  when it has "mineral stain"  it can have the most amazing rainbow colors;  purple, green, yellow, orange and blue all swirled together.

i asked this on another thread, i hope noone minds me asking here, too:

does anyone have experience growing a high living fence for deer protection (over 10')?  pictures and suggestions would be terrific.  i'm thinking black locust 2' apart to start.

anyone with approach graft experience?

i learned the hard way that deer love the young leaves of sugar maple sapplings.  tree shelters are awesome, well, at least the research and retailers who sell them claim them to be. they provide temperature regulation and increased carbon dioxide which makes them grow very fast like they were in a little greenhouse. they suggest 6 foot tall shelters to get them above the deer "browsing level".

some info and dealers:

http://www.treepro.com/id77.html

these are the ones i bought from oikos tree crops.  they were having a sale and had them at 50% off.  u can find them on ebay.

http://www.treessentials.com/products/tubex_shelters.htm

cheese, how far north are u?  what zone?

paul,

u've got me all fired up about the sweet sap silver maple and the possibility of using dozens of mature silvers i have on my place.  i don't know if u read my post in the maple syrup section, but the syrup i made from silver maples in ohio was TERRIBLE. it was so bad i couldn't eat it.  have u had any success with it?  yes, the books say it works, but i have yet to hear from someone who has actually tapped them and made delicious syrup.

also, do u know of a cheaper source for the sweet sap SM than the $22/each guy?  thanks!

does anyone have experience with living fences?  i agree that osage is ideal, but i have found it to grow very slow.  i have planted osage orange seed and have many seedlings, but the black locust grows much, much faster...and it grows wild in sw virginia.  i'm going to be an old man soon and don't have 30 years to wait for my fedge to mature.  i HAVE to have deer protection before i can plant the bulk of my orchards.  they don't understand the idea of sharing;  they eat everything!

i'd love to hear from people who have experience growing a high fedge for deer protection.  i'm thinking that i need at least 10' for it to be effective.  i have heard they can even jump that, so i think 12 would might be needed.

has anyone mastered the "Approach Graft"?

for protection down low i was thinking of hazels at the base of the locusts. what would folks suggest

kathleen, do u have pictures of your ex's fedge?

Suggestions would be great.  Paul, if this list exists somewhere else please let me know and delete this thread (and the Seed Source threads also). -nick

I am having a hard time finding a seed supply company that I like.  Does anyone have any suggestions?  Organic and heirloom variety availablity would be nice but not necessary.  Price is my main concern.  Thanks! -Nick