Jay Cee

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since Apr 05, 2019
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SW Missouri
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Recent posts by Jay Cee

T Melville wrote:All sold/ traded out for the season. (Thank you!) Gonna hold on to the rest to increase my stock for next year.



Hello

Would you happen to have some comfrey available now?
I believe I live close enough to pick up locally. I’d love to get some comfrey started asap.

Thank you
1 year ago
Thanks Santana.  I'll keep looking also.  If I find some and bite the bullet and buy them, I'll post here.
4 years ago
Where are y’all sourcing your jujubes?
I’m interested but having some difficulty locating them for sale.
Thank you.
4 years ago
That sucks about dewalt. I don’t own any of their tools, so no recent experience (other than using my friends tools doing various things) so I guess there are people who like them, and apparently, hate them. I do know that there have been manufacturing changes, so it’s good for me personally to hear the negative along with the good I hear about them.
I do like makita, and Milwaukee. Own more makita but it’s not because I don’t like Milwaukee. Just have bought a number of tools on good sales when I needed them. And I like having plenty of batteries. Trying to operate without multiple batteries does suck.
4 years ago
I am a lawn and landscape guy by trade, so do a lot of tree work.  Trimming, felling, bucking up firewood, etc.  I have both gas and battery powered, a few of each.  I utilize them in different ways, it really is all about matching your equipment to what your task is.
Having said that, I can not imagine ever owning a plug in system.  I don't mean commercially either.  For anyone.  The batteries (in the brands I trust) are now generally too good and the saws more powerful and able, to ever consider a plug in type model again.  The only way even a homeowner should consider one, imo of course, is if they are given it, or find a great deal at a garage sale or something.  Otherwise, no way dealing with cords is ever worth it.    

I grew up on Stihl saws, and still use a lot of Stihl products, just don't currently own one of their chainsaws.  I've got a couple gas Husqvarna 450s, two Makita battery operated, one of them top handle that is smaller that is great for trimming/pruning, the other a 16 inch bar that can do a LOT of work.  Neighbors and clients both appreciate that I can work in their yard or neighborhood all afternoon and they barely know I'm there when I'm using the battery.  I also have the Milwaukee battery saw.  The Dewalt I've never used professionally, but I do have a friend that owns one and I've used it for like 5 minutes, I can see myself buying one in the future.  
I've found that if you don't buy the cheap brands, you get better results.  Stick with Makita, Milwaukee, or Dewalt.  

I personally prefer having the electric on the truck at all times for small trim jobs and even small tree removal.  If I'm cutting something big, that requires a heavy saw.  Don't overwork the battery equipment.  The person who had trouble with a Dewalt after one day, take that sucker back.  They are not all garbage.  That being said, I don't know what you were trying to cut, how big or how hard the wood was etc, but it's not a gas saw.  It's not gonna perform like one.  Not gonna work as long or as hard.  It was made for smaller jobs.  Big trees require big saws, and that pretty much means, at this point in history anyway, gas powered.  Or possibly the quite expensive backpack battery type, which I have no personal experience with.  

Long story short, I like my battery powered saws.  If you have other power tools in one of the brands I listed above, and can utilize your battery line that way, do it!  I think you'll have good results, and never look back.  

Good luck.
4 years ago
Thank you for replies.

Zone 6b
Typical midwest temperate climate, hot humid summers

Primarily fescue in the fields, but do have a mix of clovers, ryegrass, some johnsongrass etc.  It's not a monoculture by any means. Currently I purchase all of my hay.  I don't have equipment, don't really want it either as it takes money to operate and own etc, and as I'll explain next I am trying to use all my available forage for my animals.  If I can buy someone else's hay, that just brings additional organic matter onto my property, which over time, will accumulate.  Not a bad thing imo.  

I currently have 8 commercial cows plus calves and one bull.  Have no intention of going registered anytime, as it's not realistic.  My goal is to get to 15 mama cows and one bull, all supported on grass and hay alone.  I also provide loose salt and mineral, but no grains or supplemental feed. If they don't raise a calf or otherwise can't make it on what we're doing here, they take a ride to town. I believe with the rotational daily grazing that I started in May of 2019 that supporting this many animals is possible.  We were able to extend our grazing season more than a month this year which saved at least $240 in hay costs, which is exciting for me as well as encouraging to keep at it.  At that number of cattle my cows alone would be providing meat for my family, and enough calves at current prices to pay the annual mortgage on our place with some left over.  That is enough cows for me.  I am not trying to maximize the number of cows on this place, I have a goal I want to get to, while also making my small farm a place that we love living on.  

I have watched lots of Greg Judy videos trying to learn all I can.  I am hoping to make it to his farm for the South Poll annual event in June.  His videos have been a great resource and inspiration to me already, and I would love to go to one of his grazing school, but its not exactly in my budget.  As for his cows/bulls, they aren't exactly in my budget either.  I love his herd, but so do many others so of course the price isn't easy for this smaller operator to get involved.  I do like the South Poll, and I'm definitely not opposed to them, but when the commercial business is all about the black hide, its hard to understand why I would want to pay more for red cows that I'm going to have to take less for at market.  I know many people say "market your beef to individuals" and that's great, but that also means taking all of your animals to finish weight.  There are very real costs and time involved in doing that, some not easily seen at first.  So it's not exactly easy for me to do on this small acreage.  In fact, with my end goals, its truly not feasible.  Every year I intend to have one cull heifer that we keep for our own personal beef, other than that the calves are going to market.  I won't have room, so I need to maximize the price of the animals that I'm taking.  A ten cent dock (minimum) at market adds up to real money.  My take is I don't really believe that the heat tolerance is only in the red coat.  Look at the Mashona cattle Elizondo has down in Florida.  Those are black.  Living in hot tropical conditions.  I believe heat tolerance is genetic, exists in many animals not just red ones, so I need to concentrate on finding those that will thrive and do well in my environment and my management style.  

I am hoping to purchase some OCC commercial heifers this spring, and will be looking to buy a Senegus bull, or Mashona.  OCC has been in the grass only business for a long while, hopefully combining his genetics with a good heat tolerant breed will provide the type of animal I'm looking for, easy fleshing heat tolerant females that raise a calf every year unassisted on grass and hay alone.  

As for infrastructure, I have, what I call semi-permanent, high tensile electric fence dividing my pasture into 4 unequal quadrants, as I have an abnormal lot shape.  This finally got completed just last month.  It will make daily moves much easier going forward.  
I am experimenting with cereal grains broadcast into my pasture in the fall to help extend grazing.  I had some success even as late as I started on it, and I'm looking forward to using what I'm learning.  

As for shelters, hopefully the trees that I'm discussing will provide a lot of what I'm looking for.  Evergreens would theoretically block a lot of wind and rain.  That is why I'm asking about the specific shape of my tree formations, as well as which ones to use.  Depending on exactly how I sited the trees in relation to each other and our prevailing winds, they could become living shelters if you will, rather than ones that I build and maintain.  That was my idea anyway.  I could also dot the landscape with trees, and I may put one here or there, but I'm hoping that the windbreak/fodder formations that I'm considering would do the job that I need.  That's why I want to put one in every quadrant of my pasture.  Does anyone have any thoughts on that, or anything else?  Hopefully this long response answered the questions you asked :)


A few other formations that I've been considering below.  
With prevailing winds and weather from the west, trying to allow cows to get some shelter at different times of the year on each side of the trees, and with coldest winter winds from the north, also allow additional reprieve from that.  

             
  #2                   West



                   E   E
                     E   E
                       E    E    A  A  A  A  A                           North
   A  A  A  A  A    E    E
                           E    E
                              E   E
                                 E   E


                   


   

#3             West



 A  A  A  A  A   E   E
                         E    E                               North
                            E    E
                               E    E
                                  E   E
                                    E   E  





#4                     West



 A  A  A  A  A   E   E  A  A  A  A  A
                      E    E                               North
                      E    E
                      E    E
                      E   E
                      E   E  


                                                                                                                                                             




                                                             
5 years ago
As my title says, my main purpose of this post is design and location of my windbreaks for my livestock.  Currently I have a few cows, in the future I plan on sheep as well.  I'm currently in the process of designing my property, it is a small farm if you will of 17.5 acres.  I have been putting I guess you'd say semi-permanent cross fencing, using high tensile electric fence to break my pasture up into four manageable sections for rotational grazing.  I've been doing that using only polywire since May of this year, and will use the polywire to make smaller breaks in those four sections.  Moving the animals daily I can already see the difference in my fields.  It's exciting to start to see improvements!

Now that I've got my pasture broken into 4 sections, I want to begin adding trees for windbreaks, shade, and even food source for my animals.  My question concerns how to best position the trees.  When I say position them, I want to block wind and sun from the primary problem directions, west and north.  One idea is to use both evergreens and apple trees, and form a kind of T if looked at from above.  Evergreens to the north, and apple trees on the perpendicular.  Kinda like this:

E  E  E  E  E
       A
       A
       A
       A
       A


Also I know I have five of each tree here, but this is just illustration purposes.  I could double up rows, use more/less of each etc.  All depends on the spot and what might work best.  


I would probably have several of these T's throughout the property.  At least one in each section, and in the larger sections (I have irregularly shaped property) possibly two of these tree groups.  

I am in a humid summer zone 6, does anyone have any thoughts on which trees might work best? I was thinking several different apple trees to space out production, and for evergreens Norwegian spruce, eastern white pine, shortleaf pine, ponderosa pine.  

The idea behind this is that the evergreens for a more solid barrier against the winter winds, the apple trees provide shade in summer and apples for people and animals in the summer/fall.  Is this a good idea, bad, etc.  Can it be improved on and what would you all do differently?



The other school of thought on trees in your pasture, is more of the silvopasture design.  Spacing trees throughout the property.  This might be preferable, as the tree T's I described above, might make for more concentration of animal waste, as they are congregating around my windbreaks/shade.  Silvopasture the trees are not all together so the manure is also spread out more.  
Hopefully those of you with more and better experience/brainpower can enlighten me on this.


Thank you for your thoughts.  
5 years ago
Wow, thank you for that response! answered some questions I didn't even realize I had ha!

Good to know about the earthworks. So not all is lost.
6 years ago
Thanks for the replies already.  Watched the video, these type of things are great.  I'll rewatch it with a notepad and write down species as he goes.  

Will look at the clover for the ground cover.  As well as comfrey is good for that too right?  
6 years ago
So, this is my first post, I'm new and ignorant, please help !  If there is a thread already (probably is I just couldn't find it) about what to do when you have already planted and established fruit trees, although young, before you find out about permaculture, please point me to it :)

If there isn't, here is what I'm pondering.  

I have a very small orchard area of 12 trees.  I've got apple and peaches, soon a few cherry and plum will go into a couple new spots, and in place of a few of those that have died.  Since planting these trees in last couple years, I've now found out about things like swales, underplantings, etc etc.  I'm new at all of this, so I'm trying to soak all of it up and want to start incorporating permaculture principles in everything I am doing on our small farm.  

So what would be best for me to do now that the trees and the rows are already there?  I will be adding in some new ones, but the spots for them are established I'd guess you'd say.  

Also, what trees should I be looking at to put in my orchard as nitrogen fixers for my area?  Zone 6.  I was thinking in place of a couple of the trees that have died, I could possibly put some of those in as well?  

I've got lots of questions, and I thank you for any help you all can provide!  I look forward to trying to become a contributing member of the forum :)
6 years ago