Alden Banniettis

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since Aug 08, 2019
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Retired to northern Maine from NYC. Raising meat sheep.
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Linneus, Me.
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Recent posts by Alden Banniettis

William, the masonry bell runs down the center, lengthwise, of the cabin.  The bell is, overall, two feet wide.  The outer skins are 8" rammed clay-rich earth, and the inner hollow is, of course, 8" wide.  So, if you imagine a rectangular, open-plan room, it is divided by the bell.  Sort of like a counter top.  There is a doorway in the bell for back-and-forth access.  The water heater, pressure tank, and well pump are in a utility area such that the masonry bell is right there.  We are only two older people.  We don't use much hot water, so we are going with the idea from R. Scott to use a decent-sized pressure tank that should pick up several degrees while the water is 'on deck' for the water heater.  The pex will likely be used to bring water to my sheep and pigs and the greenhouse.  
5 days ago
Running the piping under the masonry stove is also being considered.  The masonry stove is a bell, tentatively sized at 2' wide x 4' high x 30' long.  I have not yet costed the amount of metal pipe that I would need, but it seems that upsizing the well pressure tank to the max permitted by its pump might be cheaper.  I also have a ton of pex lying around, but I am not sure that pex would absorb heat quick enough.
5 days ago
Scott, we are just two elderly pensioners on the plumbing.  I have heard it said to size the pressure tank "accordingly" though to this day I have not apprehended the explanation.  But if the water sitting in the pressure tank gains a few degrees, I will consider that  success.  If bigger is better, then it sounds like my solution here.  Thank you!
6 days ago
Yes, the pressure tank will be right there.  So, no plastic water tank due to pump pressure.  Ok, scratch that.  Thank you!
6 days ago
Small cabin, 400 sq.f. will be heated with a masonry bell heater.  Long Maine winter in the northern woods.
6 days ago
Yes.  I would have to ensure that the tank is sealed enough for the pressure from my well pump.
6 days ago
So, I'm doing some very early thinking about the plumbing for my new cordwood cottage.  I have a 50-gallon hybrid water heater that came to me as a gift.  I will be on well water here in northern Maine.  Now, the water coming up from the wells around here is about 45f, maybe less in our long winters.  I am wondering whether I might interrupt the well feed to the water heater with a tank that might bring up the well water temp some five or ten degrees, or more, before it enters the water heater.  A thirty-gallon plastic water tank seems affordable.  They cost somewhere around $150.  A metal tank would be too pricey for my budget.  The tank would be within the heated space of the house (as will be the water heater).  Has anyone done something like this?  Am I being penny-wise and pound-foolish?  
6 days ago
Yep.  I am not disparaging chimneys at all.  If I need one, I do one.  I was referring only to horizontal stratifying bells- Not factories, steel plants, etc.
1 week ago
Cristobal,  Those two vertical lines should be ignored- the entire floor is an 'open-plan.'  Sorry for any confusion.  Cris, the bell is only about 4' high, so envision what is pretty much a long countertop, two feet wide.  The resultant table top will not be very warm due to the insulation under it.    Only the bathroom will have an enclosable space.  Said enclosure will be something like a sliding window panel on the top of the masonry stove.  This permits the bathroom to warm up when not being used.  It is hard for me to describe it here, but maybe you will want a photo someday.   Except for the bathroom, there is no need for walls.  The shape of the masonry heater is meant to follow the shape of the room.  So now you can imagine why I want a cut-out or doorway at some point.  I do not know yet whether the stove will need a chimney.  If it will need a chimney, it will be at the end wall where the stove butts up.  I will not know whether a chimney is required until I complete the build of the stove.  Very often, multi-bell FMG horizontal stoves will function fine without a chimney.  (Perhaps just a 'T' to block back winds.)  I know how odd that might sound to you.  Try to apprehend the fact that chimneys are a tool made necessary when forcing gases to obey human designs in their use of fire.  In a horizontal stratification bell with its proper firebox and proper operation, I would say that almost always the chimney can be dispensed with.  I do recall, however, that sometimes, a temporary chimney will be attached for the period of time it takes for the tons of thermal mass to dry out.  Also, a draft inducer or cheap inline fan can be utilized during the drying period.  If you are interested in FGM, you may wish to pick up the books written by V,E. Grum-Grzhimailo and Podgorodnikov and others from the old days.  If you ever find yourself building your own house from scratch, you will have the perfect opportunity to build its heater early on- the best way to do it, in my opinion.
1 week ago
Cristobal, I only have sketches of the build.  The structure is very simple.  A one-story rectangle. 20' x 40'. Gable roof 5:12.  I have decided that fluid dynamics does, indeed, permit me to separate two bells.  I will keep everything on the same plane, sketch "C", with the flooring brought up to make the step disappear.  But, as I may have mentioned, the stove will be done up with clay-mud bricks to enable easy changes.
1 week ago