Rick Wood

Absolutely,

In fact the bell is heavily insulated as I mentioned that in an earlier post. The design shown in the picture is the same configuration I've been using for about 10 years, the only difference is I was using an open burn fire underneath it.  Essentially I converted a truck rim fire ring into a "woodstove" and set the retort and bell on top of the ring.  Fire underneath directly impinging on the bottom of the retort.

What I am looking to do is upscale from the current version which is a 15 gallon retort inside a 30 gallon Bell. I'm upscaling to a 30-gallon retort  and and 50 gallon Bell.

I also want to use the DSR2 to as the heat Source because of more efficient and cleaner burn

OK all,

Thanks again for the input!  I've had some time waiting to change my circadian rhythms from night owl to day worker to read through some of the links and while I'm better informed I'm still a bit combobulated.

Am ready to start construction and am now in the planning stage.  I like the 7 inch CFB model we've been talking about as it seems the path of least resistance.  However, CFB is not readily available and I don't know enough about it to be confident ordering it online.  Standard firebrick, however, is cheap and local.

In my mind, simplicity and use of commonly available materials is preferred.  So let's start with a couple basic questions:

If I were to dry stack and use a standard brick length for the firebox floor and ceiling, what size DSR2 would that produce?

Will Dry Stacking be sufficient or do I really need to use mortar/cement between any joints?

If I wanted a wider firebox I assume I could cast "slabs" for the roof and floor while using standard firebrick for the walls and riser stub and port.  I've had poor luck searching for videos of the casting process...Any recommendations to videos/links that go into that process in a bit of detail?  Also, what sort of lifespan do casted slabs generally have?

Lastly, I need to be sure to reach and sustain attain an internal bell temperature of 750*f.  Any gut sense as to what size DSR2 will be best suited for that?f   Obviously bigger is more likely to do that, but I am limited to a 55 gallon drum for the bell and 30 gallons of that will be occupied by the retort vessel.

Below is a revised layout...keep in mind the DSR2 size in the image is not necessarily proportional to the bell and retort. the size of the DSR2 is what needs to be determined primarily based upon ability to heat the bell/retort to 750 for up to 90 minutes.   the DSR2 doesn't have to fit within the bell, rather the bell and retort will be set on top of it such that the exhaust from the DSR2 impinges on the retort bottom. a mating flange of sorts will be sorted out later.

So, I'm looking at the actual bell I have to use and you may be right...not a lot of room.

If I had to scale down the batch box to fit it I know I can go the table that peterberg put up for standard BB builds, but what what ratios would I be looking at for the top box.  For example how tall should it be, where should the chimney/exit port be, size of stumbler, etc. for that matter are there rules of thumb for those things?

Also you mentioned that you made the firebox a bit longer than the table specified, that there was a bit of flexibility in the firebox length, something like 25%.  Is that plus or minus 25% or just plus?  Right now my fuel wood is 20 inches

Below is a very rough sketch of what I'd like to do.  


The upper part is what I have now.  A bell, retort, and stack.  the whole thing sits on top of a tire rim with a fire built under the retort so the flames hit it directly.

I'd like to replace the fire ring (inefficient and smokey as hell) with a cleaner burn.  since it takes 90 minutes to three hours to cook the charcoal I'm leaning towards the DSR2 but a j-tube is an option.

With the J-tube I just need to center its stack on the bottom of the retort.

With the DSR2 I'd just remove a section of the top part of the upper tunnel and use the bottom of the retort for that ceiling.  The exhaust gases can exit next to the bottom as shown to heat the bell.

Clear as mud, right?

Matt,

Thanks for the info.  Looks like I had most of it save for the top box and stumbler.  Speaking of which, can't say I've seen that word before.  Can you explain its purpose and where in your pictures it is shown?

As for using the DSR2 to fire up the Kiln, basically consider the bell nothing more than a giant oven and the DSR2 as its heat source.  I will have a "retort" charged with hardwood that will be placed inside the "oven" and will "cook down" (distill) the hardwood until it is charcoal.  There is a bit more to it than that including directing the distillates (steam, "wood vinegar" and volatiles) out of the retort and back into the fire.  The big thing is to heat up the "oven" cleanly and without a lot of smoke which in a traditional kiln isn't as easy as it looks.

Morning,

I've been looking at a DSR2 design for powering a charcoal kiln and the size of the Sherman seems spot on for retrofitting my kiln.

Problem is I've seen so many "designs" and I'm fairly slow to catch on on what is being discussed that I'm at a loss at understanding what works and why...and I'm one of "those" people that learns best by trying to reinvent the wheel.  Anyhow, I realize I don't have enough days in an hour to do that and I'd love to get something built and operating and the Sherman, at least size-wise fits the bill.

So, that begs a few questions:

Can you post the specific dimensions you have come up with for your core?  ie firebox length, height and width?  rear port dimensions and top box dimensions along with "chimney" port?

Also, I don't see where you have put in a P-channel or any other secondary air tube.  Is there one or does this unit simply not use one?

Lastly, in reviewing other DSR sketches in these forums I see that the port from the firebox to secondary box is located at the back of the firebox and not in the roof.  Why is this?

Thanks!

Morning all.  Newcomer here.

Been making artisan charcoal for a few years now and am getting ready to build a new retort heated by a Rocket stove, either traditional RS or Batchbox.  Am leaning towards the BB as I won't have to tend it constantly.  

Just trying to figure out what size burner I will need to design and whether I'd be better off with a standard rocket style or Batch Box.  I need to provide several hours of burn without having to constantly feed the fire so the BB may be the way to go.  I like the traditional rocket design of being open feed but like the volume of wood I can load at one time in the BB style.

Also wondering how best to mate the burner to the oven to be as compact a unit as possible.  Right now, as the sketch suggests, a horizontal core would be ideal but may not be effective.  This would also help as  I may need to build something that can eventually be moved with a tractor and forks.

Here are my basic burning parameters:

fuel:  12-24 inch long firewood, typically 2 to 4 inches in cross section  Sometimes as branch sections other times as split wood.

Retort vessel is a stainless steel drum and will be inside a horizontal 55 gallon drum sized oven which will be insulated on all 4 sides. The retort vessel will lay in the oven such that it divides the upper and lower half of the oven to allow the flue gasses to travel along the bottom of the vessel, rise over the head of the vessel, then travel over the top of the vessel before traveling down the bottom of the vessel and exiting below the vessel.  See attached sketch.

To avoid distorting the retort vessel I'd rather not have any direct flame impingement or otherwise bring the metal up to temps that will allow such a thing. However, I do need to achieve and maintain an oven temperature between  700° F  and 900° F for 1 to 2 hours.

Thanks in advance!