Dave Lotte

First attempt at framing.....

People ask .... why are you building this

Mentioned Thermal Mass a few times on here.

Time to add part 2 - Thermal Lag.

Scenario:

House is sitting at 60 F - would like to heat it up to work in.
Start up the 80,000 BTU heater and run it for a solid hour.
House goes up to 70 F, and i work for 5 or 6 hours, nice and comfy.

Go out the next day, and it is back down to 60 F.  What the heck

We already know that if i have 55 cubic meters of concrete in the walls and floors,  that it would take around 110,000 BTU  to raise the inside temperature 2 degrees Fahrenheit ( 1 C ).

Thermal lag is the time it takes for the mass to soak up the heat.  So when i turn off the heater - the room temp comes back down to match the temp of the concrete.

Explains why it takes 3 days for the temperature to change inside.

Cool.  Once i move in and set the thermostats - it will be temperature stable for DAYS.

This always impresses me.

Finished off the chair rail ( half wall ) in the main room,  and both sides of the little end pieces for the front door measured exactly 7.5 inches.  Concrete guys know their stuff when the front door opening is EXACTLY centered.

Front and back doors trimed out, now to finish off the back porch and get started on the main walls !

I can hear the model trains running already 😂

Coydon Wallham wrote: If buying Amish ...

No.
The one major objective of this project is to keep the building inspector happy.  He says "no" - i don't argue.

I can frame in my walls with local materials.  

John C Daley wrote: with concrete you dont start framing on it until it is dry.

Yes, and no.

Now that the floor is poured,  I will be watching the humidity levels in the home.
With an estimated 2 years for the floor to completely dry out,  the framing is getting done either way.
With an estimated 700 gallons of water in the floor alone, it will take a while to completely dry out.

Asked the building inspector if i could use fresh cut lumber from the Amish saw mill, and he said "no".  Turns out, kiln dried lumber is more dimensionally stable when its humid.
Less twisting and warping.

Will be posting updates as i go.  Right now, i plug in the dehumidifier and the temperature goes up.  With 100 + temps outside - trying to avoid that.  Once the cooler weather gets here, i can leave it running and really dry things out.

Another hot and humid one today.

Here are the thermometer readings for those interested.

First,  outside, in the shade.
Second, inside old house above bed.
Third,  temperature "station".
Fourth,  hobbit home.

Accurate to within a few degrees of each other.
Concrete floor is still drying out in the hobbit home.

So much for that idea ....

My straight micro clover roof has died a horrible screaming death.

Time to test plant some different, more hardy plants.

14 hours in on this unexpected long holiday weekend.

Wooden beams had to come down - they were in the way.
Left wall ✔
Back wall ✔
Back porch - 80 % ✔
Right side - 50 % ✔
Front walls are not done.

Nothing is lagged down yet, as i have to laser level the entire thing shimming it level as i go.  Concrete guys tell me the footings were within 1/8 of an inch of level.  Going to do better.

Used up all my top planks, so time for a rest.

1 week after the concrete pour, and it's starting to cool down a bit....

Humidity is still up there, but not as high as it was.

Rico Loma wrote:Just curious
Have you contemplated and earthen floor with linseed or similar sealing?

No.  Through all stages of construction, there is one thing i HAVE to keep in mind.

Building inspector approval.

By using well known procedures - i have avoided any number of delays and setbacks.