Tom NJ

Thanks everyone.

I thought I had read somewhere else on the site that when planting sapling fruit trees, one should remove all the fruit so the plant puts all it's energy into growing the root system. However, I cannot find where I had read that.  In any case, is this so?

I, too, am looking at planting a peach tree in a wetland area. The seasonal high water table is seven inches below grade and there is a stream that is about 20' from where I would like to plant it, which, after very heavy rains, sometimes breeches it's bank. But, as quickly as it floods, it's gone. The tree is potted, so should I just set the tree right on grade and build a mound around it? Or, should I raise it up a bit higher?

TrevorNewman wrote:
For instance, a young tree is mainly concerned about growing a strong healthy root system, so a good dosage of potash would be important.

My apple trees are going on top of blue spruce roots - the trees were just cut. Would it be helpful to cinders from my stove in the bottom of the holes?

S2man wrote:
Remember, pruning stimulates growth.  Above and below the soil level.

That said, it doesn't sound like your trees are root bound.  If not, I would leave the soil alone so as to not disturb (read, break off) the delicate root hairs.  Similarly, do not drop the pots, as that will also tear off the root hairs.

If the plants *are* root bound, I take a knife and make verticle slices in the mat of roots.  Again, I don't do any other digging or pulling, to protect the root hairs.

Old wisdom was to highly amend the soil when planting, to give the young tree a boost.  More current research has shown this causes the roots to stay in the planting hole, not venturing into the native soil, and they become root bound or girdle the tree.  Trees/bushes planted in this method will be prone to tipping over (popping out of the hole) in high winds. 

The logic is, the tree will be in the native soil for decades, so it may as well get used to it.  The best I do for transplants is put some top soil in the bottom of the hole (ala Brenda's forest soil) and the subsoil on top.  There are no tree roots at the soil surface, only weeds and grass.  So the weeds can have the subsoil    Then I mulch heavily to start feeding the tree and building the soil from above, as nature does.

Even without soil amendments, The roots may hit the compacted soil and just turn and grow around inside the hole.  Again, becoming root bound.  So cut some slits in the side and bottom of the hole with your shovel.  The roots will grow into the slit, have nowhere to turn, and force their way out into the surrounding soil.

Great information. Thank you.

Brenda Groth wrote:
try seeing if you can just straighten the roots out in the hole that you dig..and not prune them..if some are too difficult to straighten then cut them off so they don't encircle..but save as many as you can straighten..don't put a lot of fertilizer in your hole but do put some forest soil in the hole to bring in some good bacteria balance for thos roots

Thanks for the input Brenda.

I had bought organic compost, which I was going to dump in the whole of each of the trees. Do you think this is a bad idea? Should I just use forest soil? The reason I was going to amend the soil with the compost is because the trees are going where blue spruce had recently been.

So, I have purchased three apple trees and two peach, all of which have been grown in pots and are about three years old. How do I go about pruning the rootball back so the roots don't strangle the plant down the road? Do I just take a knife and start shaving dirt and root off until I see root that is sticking straight out?

Thanks for the replies.

I can't wait a year because I already have the trees coming. The idea of adding soil is a good one. How about a nurse plant?

I had posted this question in another post, but never received a response to it. So, I am breaking it out into it's own post.

I am cutting down two blue spruce trees to make way for three apple trees. The spruces are about 40 years old and large with a big root system. All three apple trees will be situated in the root system of the old trees. So, knowing that spruce is allelopathic, how long will the roots continue to put off toxins? Will this kill the trees I want to plant?

Thanks for the input.

Is anyone interested in suggesting what I should group together? I have started 70 plants for this season, it appears that all but two will make it. Here is what I have Tomato, Spinach, Romaine, Carrot, Onion, Radish, Swiss Chard, Green Bell Pepper, Zucchini and Yellow Squash. I will also be planting some Basil, Rosemary and Thyme.

I know that Basil and Tomato go well together. And, from a previous post, it sounds like Carrots love Tomatos. Is anyone willing to tell me which ones I should group together?

Thanks for the help.