Roy Houston

I've always questioned the tap root concept on trees grown from seeds. Not so much that the tap root dies for transplants, but whether or not it even exists for most fruit trees. I had a batch of seeds in my refrigerator that had been there for about a year. It was a mixture of apples, plums, apricots, and pluots. I had forgot about them, and my wife was about to throw them out, but I decided, just for kicks, to stick them in small peat pots to see what happened. Low and behold one shot up after 3 days. I'm not sure what it is since I didn't mark the pots, but it's some kind of stone fruit.

Anyway, after 4 days I decided I need to transplant into a larger pot. I can't really go straight outside with it because we have freezing weather coming this week, and yes, I know that November is not the greatest time to be starting trees from seed. Just one of those things.

While transplanting into a larger pot I peeled the peat pot off of the plant and low and behold, there was a 4" long tap root curled around inside the peat pot (the little tree is only about 3" tall right now). I would have taken a pictures for other doubters like me, but I didn't want to stress the plant too long so I immediately put it into the larger pot.

Now the dilemma is what to do? I'll probably just nurture the plant through the winter mostly indoors and loose the tap root. It does change how I will think about growing trees from seed in the future though. You win this time Paul.

Travis:

I just heard about another method of controlling powdery mildew and some types of black and grey mold, which is the use of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). There was one mention in the article for use on strawberries, and this control method is better as a prophylactic measure, so it may be worth exploring. Here is a link to a summary of group of scientific studies which you can read for background info.

Mold spray info

I've also heard of using milk instead of water for the carrier agent, but that was just for powdery mildew.

Regards,

Roy

Travis:

I couldn't say for sure. Probably acorn squash since it's from the same subfamily. I've only used regular pumpkin.

Roy

Thanks for the comments. I'll be putting them in next week in preparation for next spring's planting unless someone comes along and tells me not to. I can't really see much downside, and since they will be at the back part of the property where irrigation isn't practical I figure its worth a shot.

Roy

In part 2 of the Geoff Lawton interview Paul and Geoff mentioned that hugelkulture was not really suited for warm climates because of the rapid breakdown of the wood. This was the first I heard of this. I'm in zone 7b, which is quite warm. Does this mean I shouldn't be putting in hugelkulture beds? My reasoning, besides the 45 to 60 days we go without rain in the middle of the summer was to improve the soil texture because I'm also super heavy clay.

Incidently, lest anyone cry FOUL!!!, yes I know black rot on strawberries and black rot on muscadines are two totally different fungal diseases; just similar names.  Experience tells me Pumpkin rind works on strawberries.  I'll be experimenting with it on the muscadines...

Roy

Hi Travis,

Garlic is one of the better choices planted throughout the strawberry bed, but go somewhat heavy on the planting.

For quicker results, pumpkin rind has incredibly strong anti-fungal properties.  I cut into chunks, scoop off virtually all of the meat and then whiz in a food processor.  Steep in cool water overnight, strain and then spray liberally.  I've never measured amounts, but I would guess that I put about 2 cups of pureed pumpkin RIND in a gallon jar with water.  Also, keeping indoors (or below 80F) seems to work best.  Because you already have an outbreak you will have to hit it pretty hard; every 3 days for at least a couple of weeks intially.

Incidently, this is reportedly good also good on tomatoes and grapes (particularly in humid areas where Black rot is a problem).  I've just installed a muscadine vineyard this past spring (not very permaculture like... I know  )and this will be my first line of attack should I have problems with them.

Lastly, there is an Organic approved product called PlantShield HC available from lots of places that I have heard good things about for black rot on strawberries.

Good Luck!

Roy

I'm not familar with Lancaster so I can't compare.  Salatin's comments about flooding were very permaculture-like (in my limited understanding anyway).  In its simplest form, the longer and slower the water moves, the more readily it is absorbed into the ground and usable by plantlife. 

Using the Mississippi River, for example, apparently this river has been purposely "straightened" to better allow barge traffic up and down.  Doing so has reduced the surrounding area's ability to buffer the flow.  Think of a large sponge, say 3"x5"x1" thick.  If you lie it flat and pour water on the 3"x5" face, it will quickly become saturated to the point that the water just passes through the 1" cross-section.  Now, turn the sponge vertical so that the 5" lenght runs up and down and pour the water into the sponge on the 1" edge.  It will allow much more water to be buffered or taken into the sponge before it reaches saturation and passes the water through.  That analogy is part of the problem with with Mississippi River flooding. 

That was one point of his.  He also talks quite a bit about better land management in the form of soil conservation and soil building/replenishment to once again increase the buffering ability of land to reduce the amount of run-off currently occurring. 

Increasing number of Farm ponds to improve buffering ability and improve hydrology cycling.  Apparently the USDA views ponds as liabilities instead of assets (can't comment on this).

He thinks the new laws about resticting a person's right to capture rainwater is also bass-ackwards as this is once again shortening the path of water flow rather than lengthening it.  Goes back to hydrology cycling again.

There was quite a bit more, but hopefully that gives you a little idea about that chapter.

I'm in the middle of reading this book now (half way mark).  While interesting reading, you will not find a great deal of hands on advice.  It's more of a broad stroke kind of book.  I must say the chapter on water use and abuse is tremendous though.  It makes a number of good points about the problems of flooding in our nation and what could be, but won't be, done about it.

It would be a good book for someone to read if you want to stretch you mind and look at the bigger picture.