Dan Foresman

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since May 27, 2014
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Recent posts by Dan Foresman

“Insects and disease are the symptoms of a failing crop, not the cause of it. It’s not the overpowering invader we must fear but the weakened condition of the victim.”

-- William Albrecht

Going over the subject of high brix at a 420 grower forum that has many references to all kinds of gardening. When the nutrient content gets high enough, the only thing left
that needs doing is keeping the nutrients going... no pests or disease issues...

"There must be calcium carbonate, and other mineral forms of calcium. If you can find some field stripeing chalk, read the bag carefully. If it says, "Calcium carbonate, 90% (or better)" you're good here. There are rock dust products in your area, just search for them.

Soft rockphosphate isn't used in the mix for phosphorus....most of the P in SRP isn't available to the plant for months. It's a colloidal clay and has all kinds of calcium and trace minerals. The clay is also fantastic for CEC, which is very important.

Just do the best you can, with what you have, and think CALCIUM all the time. Find someone who grows absolutely mouth watering tomatos and find out what's in their soil. You're on the right track....just think very small rocks and calcium"

That's an example post from this discussion...Doc Buds Hi Brix...

I am not trying to get into hot water mentioning ganja with my first posts, but I, like a lot of other people would rather be working on a hot-rod than a beater, and it seems to me, that most
gardens aren't getting the 420 crowds fanaticism...
11 years ago
Hi all's! I was stumped as to what could be preventing my industrial -grade vermiculture tea from getting my plants to fly out of the ground! It turned out the local nursery had a bacterial infection in their tomatoes, but that still did not explain the beets that looked like they were planted from the 6-pack yesterday and not three months ago or the watermelon that was 2 inches long after 3 months or what have you... I thought it could be the Napa Valley pesticide presents delivered at night from across the creek... gotta get on that pony and ride it still, but I pulled up the beets and whadda ya know! Root Knots!
I was searching Soil Ph and Nematodes and found some articles that clarify things this thread would Value.
Nematode Life Cycles
Soil fertility, Texture, and Ph
In a nutshell, potassium , the K of NPK, is the best cell wall strengthener and therefore the critical buffer element for Nematode penetrations. They spread like crazy in sandy soil but overwinter better in fine soil.
Solarisation is just raising temperature, not using wavelengths so it looks like a heat process, cooking soil, is the best method I see besides potassium, water and nutrients to ride the season. Nematodes practically are roots themselves by the adult phase of their life-cycle, since they can literally blow roots up by growing faster than roots can, there may turn out to be some wierd border of absorption that can be exploited to kill them, or, maybe they can be false-triggered into their life-cycle before planting and then starved, they often have 4 metamorphosis states...
I am thinking about using my tumbling composter plus a rocket stove to batch process my soil, I use macrobins that have a yard of soil in them each and I want the Nematode Nemesis done with! Sheez, if I hadda grow things to eat at all, I would have starved!

Peace.
11 years ago