Michael Kristoffersson

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since May 18, 2018
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Recent posts by Michael Kristoffersson

Ah, right. So as long as your design can be flexible enough to adjust once you know more info then that should be fine.

I'm considering you'd at least want tree and/or hedge shelter from the cold winds.
For both the plants and definitely for your tent location as well.

If there's any significant slope, use it to your advantage.
Site things uphill that provide for downhill. Moving things downhill is far easier than the other way around.

e.g. chickens above a garden, water store above garden, food above accommodation or processing area, etc.

Just a couple  of thoughts for now.
Willow can be woven to give a decent living fence, though you'd need some temporary, perhaps more standard fencing until it was well established.
I believe willow will pleach (if that's the correct term) when woven/tied; i.e. it will grow into itself.
Stephen, have you got a topographical map?
What data do you have regarding Sector Analysis?
To the north side (or the prevailing winter wind direction), what is the existing protection like?
I agree Ernest, it is like herding cats. I do love cats though.
I know the feeling of being without one's tribe.
One of the great (not good) achievements of the modern age, the broke us all apart and spread us to the wind.

Sorry US is not viable for us - much as the landscape appears stunning and worth exploring, sadly the corporation of the USA is even more messed up than Britain...

I do so wish that you find some kindred spirits sooner rather than later.
The times are calling for it increasingly.
I'm impressed at how hard the powers that be and the current paradigm are holding onto their insanity, as the ship sinks around them.
If we're not careful (as local collectives) this covid madness will end up re-enforcing the status quo instead of toppling it, as it rightfully should have by now.
3 years ago
Hi Pedro,

As soon as we are able (weeks or months), myself and my parents shall be seeking property in Portugal.
Either we find a place of our own and I get my hands dirty in every aspect of permaculture, or we get lucky and find like-minded people to join and work with.
How is your situation?
Is there an easier way to speak than discussing here?

Michael
3 years ago
Hi William,

How is your journey progressing?
I'm always glad to hear of people doing what I am striving to do myself.
If you're still looking to build a small community, is there an easier way to have a conversation?
If you have the time, I would love to talk.
My parents, who are retired, and myself are looking to find a place to take care of and look after ourselves, somewhere in Portugal, in the coming months.
It is not the easiest time right now, but we must do it somehow

All the best. I trust this message finds you well.

Michael
3 years ago

Su Ba wrote:John, I find that organic material decomposes on my farm very rapidly too. As a result I only bother making traditional hot compost piles when I want to "sterilize" the ingredients, such as with manures, seedy material, grass roots that need killing, material that might be housing noxious insects, etc. In these cases I will make hot piles that heat up rapidly and are usually ready to be opened and cooled within 30 days. I don't leave hot piles sitting around decomposing, for as you found out, they continue to rapidly decompose down to the basics. Almost all my hot piles are opened, cooled, and used 30-45 days after starting. If I'm busy or don't need the material, then a pile might go 60 days.

I also use a lot, lot, lot of cold (actually only slightly warm, not hot) compost piles. These are my pallet grow boxes that hold a cubic yard of material. I also have a few keyhole gardens that I use for demonstration that I fill as cold compost piles. Once filled and put into use, the volume gradually reduces due to decomposition. By 6 months of use the grow boxes are around half full....sometimes more, sometimes less depending upon the material used.

Having my compost "disappear" is good as long as I am utilizing the nutrients. I rely upon the compost decomposing because it is my major source of fertilizer. I am constantly replenishing the compost and other organic material, tilling the compost and old mulch into the soil between crops plus adding mulch to growing crops.

Digging material right into the soil and thus bypassing a compost pile is another method I use, as long as the material doesn't need heat treatment. I grow my taro that way. My taro beds are prepared with a trench on either side of the row of young taro. Then over the course of a few weeks, the trenches are filled in with organic material. It is eventually topped with some grass clippings and an inch of dirt or volcanic cinder. As the material decomposes, it feeds the growing taro.

I prefer to lightly till in my compost, as apposed to leaving it decompose on the soil surface. We get tradewinds here that will literally blow away the fine dust and material the compost eventually decomposes down to. I keep my soil usually covered with a light mulch which also helps protect the decomposing compost. With all the effort to get compost into the soil, I hate to see it blow away. And besides, compost as it decomposes is constantly losing nitrogen, so I have read. By lightly tilling it in, I hope that the ammonia ions get used or otherwise bound up in the soil rather than blowing away in the wind.



Nice info, thanks.
Regarding your trouble of compost blowing away as it decomposes, have you perhaps managed to plant some wind breaks over the last few years?
Sounds like it might benefit you a lot.

Anything to avoid tillage
4 years ago