Jon Hay

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since Jul 08, 2024
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Since 2016 I've been establishing an off-grid homestead in New Zealand and building a natural earth home since 2019. It is a roundhouse made from native NZ roundwood timber, featuring a reciprocal frame roof and various wall systems, including cob, straw bale, cordwood and light earth. It's lime plaster exterior and earth plaster interior, with no cement used apart from the foundations. It also has an extensive living roof with a variety of sedums and succulents.
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Northland, New Zealand
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Recent posts by Jon Hay

Thanks Mike, I can highly recommend it!

There's actually already a video on my channel on the rubble trench foundation, plus a couple of others on the framing of the henge:  https://youtube.com/@earthbuildnz?si=hCG9XW6D2rDQbBxP

Hopefully the link works, if not you can search for EarthbuildNZ on YouTube and it should take you there. I should mention I had VERY little in the way of previous earth building (or general building!) experience when I moved to this property 8 years ago, and picked things up mostly from YouTube and books, so hopefully my videos can help others to get the confidence to give things a go.
That's a good question! The short answer is I had no accurate way of knowing anything for sure.

The longer answer is that there's little technical information on the native NZ timber I used (Totara), especially for the younger trees I was using, but it's known for being generally strong and durable, which was a good starting point. And I knew I needed each rafter to span 4m so, as an approximation, I set up a 4m span between two blocks of wood on the ground and then placed different poles on there and loaded up the mid-points of each them with weight (people, or whatever else I needed, up to about 200kg). I could then see how much each pole was flexing and used this to grade the poles in order of strength. I noticed there was a significant increase in flex beyond a certain minimum diameter, so I only used the poles that had minimal to zero flex, keeping the smaller ones for smaller spans elsewhere in the building.

It's difficult to calculate the weight of the earth roof above, but I was pretty that even with sodden wet soil up there, I felt the weight on each rafter would be fine (It's a 50m2 roof with 20 rafter poles, so each pole only needs to support 1.5m2 of roof, plus a decent portion of that area will be towards each end of each pole where they're a lot stronger.) Fortunately I'm in a climate where I don't need to worry about snow loading.

The living earth roof has now been up for several years and weathered many a storm and downpour with no issues so in the end it's worked out really well, and the roof looks amazing (inside and out!). I definitely understand your concern, as I was a little bit hesitant using my rustic approach to structural engineering, but I think a bit of common sense goes a long way. Not to mention I think it would have been near impossible (or at least incredibly expensive) getting proper engineering calculations done, as each pole was unique in size, shape, taper etc.

I hope that helps - I'm hoping to do a video or two on the living roof in the next few weeks if that's of interest. And (eventually) I'll have one on how I finished and weatherproofed the hole in the centre, which gave me a few sleepless nights trying to work out how best to do it!

Thanks

Jon



I thought this might be of interest here - it's an explanatory video on how I constructed the reciprocal frame roof for the earth round house I'm building. It was a few years ago that I actually built the roof frame, but only just getting around to editing old footage and posting to YouTube! It's an 8m diameter span, supporting a living earth roof (which I'll do another video on later).



Happy to try to answer questions on it too...
Thanks Phil, it's been a long road, but getting there! Nearly ready to post a video on the reciprocal roof which was a really satisfying part of the build - feels like an age ago now though.
1 year ago
Not sure if this is helpful for the scale you're planning (and certainly not an ancient technique!), but I've built our 8 meter (internal) diameter earth roundhouse house in New Zealand with a living roof blending into a bank on the ground on one side. I kept the roundhouse section self-contained, on its own rubble trench foundation with the earth around it angled away from the foundations and a secondary French drain installed to move any water away. I then extended the roof out from the house to the ground, creating a deep, protected verandah between the roundhouse and the ground, and keeping any ground water well away from the earth walls. The house was relatively very cheap to build from local roundwood timber for the frame, and local, natural materials for the walls. The biggest costs were the reclaimed joinery, and the pond liner we used to cover the roof.

The original plan was to use the verandah space for firewood and other storage, but whilst building the framing we decided to keep a higher head height and infill the spaces with additional rooms. The living roof drains down to the ground, where I dug another trench with a French drain to take away any roof water, which means there's now very little water coming through the bank, so I plan to put a membrane down and then create larder/root cellar/ cool storage areas adjoining the bank, then other living spaces on the inside of that. This effectively moves any potential problems further away from the actual house.

The roundhouse is now nearly finished and habitable, and it's worked out really well. I'm in the process of editing and posting a series of videos on YouTube which you may find helpful:





The channel will cover rubble trenches, roundwood framing, reciprocating roof, straw bale, cob, cordwood, light earth, earth plaster, lime plaster, living (sedum) roof, and hopefully much more
1 year ago