Ernie Wisner wrote: Have you ever built one to the plans and dimensions before?
Not yet, I'm planing to build one small stove for coocking in spring.
Ernie Wisner wrote: If not how do you know that one to dimension wont do what you want it to do?
I knew that it will do what I need. "Russian" ovens is still prety common in my region, and RMH just have different combustion unit and more compact. My concerns is not releted to the: will or not will do? And more to: What problems will it cause while working?
Ernie Wisner wrote: have you actually read the book?
Plans for this stoves is available for free on the internet, or can be figured out from photos and videos.
As I'm understand key points is:
- Burn pipe (where wood is actualy burns) should have smaller diameter then heat riser, free space in barel and exhaust pipe
- Wood trey height should be as low as possible, and it should be as close as posible to the barrel
- Chimney should generate enought draft to not cause a "smoke back" problem, even if cold
- Ash pit should be as close to the barel as posible
Here litle list of my concerns:
- For enought starting draft it wil require high chimney to overcome air resistence of combbustion unit
- While operating it will consume room air rapidly, so it will require additional air intake to not cause wind draft in the living room.
- After burn stoped it will suck air from the room/intake because of hot chimney and will result in heat losses
) on type of "cheap" insulation I'm found a straw clay insulation that has R-20 for 30cm wall (12"). That is VERY impressive, and I only need to have a R-10 insulation. But after my research continued I'm found next article: http://www.foxmaple.com/proclay.html, that describe how to create insulation with wood chips, that will as good, as straw clay.
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