Jon Adams

Hi Gary Crays

I never allow log to touch concrete and use a felt paper to line any metal to log contact. The questions about post conections is a very difficult one to answer because there can be so many variables. It is also easy to do it wrong and that can be very dangerous. I think your best bet would be to find a local engineer that is familiar with log building and have them design your anchors. Be sure to rememeber that they may have lift load as well to consider especially for a gable end or dormer over a patio. Once they are designed and aproved by your building inspector then just find a good welder and you are safe amd ready to go.

Hi Gary

Sorry for the short reply but I am busy in the bush right now so I have limited time omline. If I was only going to have 1 book it would be Building with logs by B. Allan Mackey. I belive it is sold at lee valley.

I usually don't place a door or window within 2 feet of each other or a corner. Any shorter than that and the log can check and actually split in half.

Hi Gary

I will try this again. I think I am having some technical difficulties so if this posts twice I am sorry.

I would be glad to help with any questions you have. If you want to shoot me your phone number I would be glad to chat a bit and give you a few tips to make life a little easier. You are on the right track trying a small profect first and learning the finer points before tackling a house. I hope that you will find out how truly easy this is and forget the kit idea. I live 20 minutes south of Ottawa and will be starting my shell this spring and then moving it to the Calabogie area once it is finished. That said if you ever want to come see the different stages you would be more than welcome. I should have 60 24" top 30 foot logs to peel any day now and you are invite to get yours hand dirty. Just kidding that is the only job I hate. If you would however like to come see how the sills are done or the roof system is built or anything in between just let me know and I would be glad to call as things come up.

Here are a few pics from my first log home.

I am starting a new build this spring. It will be my personal home (divorce got my first one). Anyone intersted in some pics and a progress report?

The pictures are my view and the trees I will be using. Most of the trees are split tops (tree grows a second top half way up) so they need to be harvested anyway as they are getting so big they are just splitting down the middle and then become useless. This is also a bit of a bonus for me as I will get a wall log and two floor joists or rafters out of every tree.

Can I ask what size of home you are planning on building and if you have considered log construction. It is fast, 100% natural renewable materials and has far less waste than post and beam construction. The R value for most cedar ( the wood of choice in your area) would be between 1.25 R and 1.75 R per inch of log. That said an average log size of 12 inches would give you an R15 wall on the low side and an R21 on the high side. The difference with log is that it is also a very good thermal mass and once warmed it will radiate heat for days. Just a thought as you live in an area that quality logs would be readily available and if natural materials is your goal it just doesn't get much more natural than a hand crafted log home. If built in the proper style there is nothing but wood inside and out no artificial chinking or caulk is required and with the proper overhang you will not even require a stain on the exterior.

I have just recently discovered your site and I will be asking all sorts of advice and hopefully I can use everyone elses expertise to learn the things I don't know. I figured if you were willing to share with me then I should respond by sharing my expertise with anyone who may want it. I am a log home builder that uses the scandanavian full scribe (cope), shrink fit saddle notch method. I also build all my own roof trusses, purlins and post from round log with a mortise and tenon joinery system( all wood no nails or screws ). This method wastes almost nothing and can be done completely by hand in the bush and requires almost no outside materials. If you have trees a strong back and are good a freecycling (windows, doors, and roofing) you can build a stunning home for next to nothing. If anyone has any questions regarding tools, techniques or materials please just ask and I will do my best to help.

Jon

Thanks for the avdvice. The liner is fairly inexpensive at $35 each and I would only need two to get 48 inches in height. the lid will be steel with a copper tube/water heat sink on top of it to heat some water for the chickens and for extra thermal mass. I am also wondering if I could use a round 8" chimney(6" inside) liner for the heat riser, and if so would I still need to insulate around it as it is built to stop heat transfer. I am new to this but have always been a think outside the box kind of guy so these are just a few ideas I am floating out to the masses. I am also looking for the best detailed information I can find so if you could point me in the right direction I would be very greatful.

Just getting started so thank you
Jon

Just wondering if anyone has tried to use a 24x24 clay chimney liner as an outer shell instead of the standard oil drum? I have seen a few RMS that have the drum covered with cob or something so i assume the air contact with the drum is not a requirement. My thoughts are that it will take longer to radiate heat but once hot it should hold heat alot longer. I am a log builder and I plan to use it in a small cabin and think the appearence would suit the style of home a little better. What if any drawbacks do you see and if this has been tried and failed please let me know and save me the time and effort.

Thanks
Jon