Brandon Greer

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since Apr 22, 2012
1 Hour Northeast Of Dallas
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Recent posts by Brandon Greer

Joseph Lofthouse wrote:Everything in your garden might be suffering, and you might not notice if the whole garden were affected. I don't use materials from the city because of the totally non-vetted nature of the inputs to their system. I've seen too many ruined gardens in my neighborhood.

In any case, each species, each variety, and even each individual plant will have different susceptibility and growth requirements.

It looks like the beans are growing in a plastic tote. That's tough growing conditions for plants in general.

Is there some sort of test for the soil to find out if there are toxins in there?

Joseph Lofthouse wrote:It looks to me like something is wrong with the soil. The light green (yellow) color of the leaves isn't usual for that species. Weird colors in a plant's leaves are often due either to something toxic being in the soil, or to too much/little of an essential nutrient, or too much/little water, or the wrong pH, or any combination of these.

In cases like this, I find it easiest to start over with different soil.

Yikes! We got a bunch of this soil from the city. My parents are using it too. Several of the plants had stalled during a cold spell we got and several of the leaves turned yellow. Now everything seems to be improving with warmer temperatures. If it was something toxic wouldn't it be garden-wide since everything is planted in the same soil?
Can someone tell me what this is on my rattlesnake beans and how I might go about handling it?
We discovered today that grub worms are eating our beet roots. I couldn't say what type it is but according to an internet search it seems like it might be from the June Beatle.

My #1 goal is self-sufficiency so having to purchase something from an outside source every year isn't ideal but I guess that's better than continued damage.

Can someone recommend a good solution?
Thanks everyone for your replies. I'll go ahead and try the worm tea since I already have the stuff. Then on to blood meal if needed.

I'm looking forward to better fertility next year since a large portion of my new beds are lasagna beds. Plus I have a compost pile that I started this year.
2 years ago
So I built our new garden beds with compost that we bought from the city and I'm thinking it's not very fertile. I direct sowed and all the seeds sprouted but after developing 1 or 2 sets of leaves, pretty much everything has stalled. The leaves have a slight yellow tinge and they've been creeping so slowly for like 3 weeks now.

So I decided I need to add some fertility to the soil and I've heard so many good things about worm castings so I ordered some.

Was that the right move? Will worm castings provide enough fertility to get things growing again?
2 years ago
I've started a compost bin using an old rain barrel with holes drilled on the bottom and sides. For the browns I have dried leaves and for the greens I'm using leaves from a yucca plant and kitchen scraps. Whenever I add new greens I always cover with a thin layer of leaves.

My question is when I add chicken scraps do I need to add water to the bin each time I add browns? I ask because they're very dry.
2 years ago

Maureen Atsali wrote:I do 3 sisters, but I have never tried to line up varieties for a simultaneous harvest.  I usually go in and harvest beans first, then maize, and lastly squash.  And we eat leaves from the squash all season long, as one of our favorite green veggies.  So we walk through the plot all the time.  Even if we accidentally step on a vine here and there it doesn't seem to deter or harm the squash, which tend to put down extra roots along the way anyway.  

I couldn't leave my beans out.  I also seem to have the varieties that break open and drop their seeds if left too long.  And mildew and insects also become a problem when left on the field.

Can you describe your spacing? I place corn and beans in the same mound and space those 4' center to center. Squash is planted in its own smaller mound and staggered between the corn mounts. See the image attached. The yellow circles are corn and blue are squash. With this spacing, things get pretty crowded in there. I couldn't imagine traipsing into the mix until things start to die back a bit. Perhaps yours is arranged differently?

Wes Hunter wrote:

Brandon Greer wrote:As far as yield goes, how did Turkey Craw compare to Genuine Cornfield? I'm reading that Turkey Craw is 80 - 100 days. I'm guessing that the low end is for greens and the high end for dry? Did you leave any for dry beans and if so about how long did they take to reach that point?

The Turkey Craw seemed a lot more productive on a yield-per-foot-of-row basis, but it's kind of hard to say because I didn't keep records, and the fact that I'm a really inadequate weeder could disproportionately affect yields.  That said, the Genuine Cornfield were planted right next to the Turkey Craw, so direct environmental factors will have been largely the same.  The Turkey Craw at least left me with the impression that they were really teeming with pods, whereas I can't say the same for any of the others.  I'll say, too, that I have noticed significant differences in plant growth in a quite small space in our garden (different soil types), so that could be a factor, though if it was an obvious one last year I didn't make a note of it.  In short, apparently: gee I don't really know.

We ate some as green beans, but most were left to dry.  I don't recall exactly how long it took, except that the Turkey Craw seemed to mature over a considerably longer period, and even after harvesting dry beans off some vines I was harvesting green beans off others.  There were some Genuine Cornfield that matured relatively early, but most seemed to hang on the vine forever before they finally dried.

I read that the Genuine Cornfield is very much like a pinto bean. How would you describe the taste and use of Turkey Craw? Sorry for all the questions.

Wes Hunter wrote:I've never had too much trouble with dry pods popping open (though it does happen--dependent on variety, I think), but I have found that dry pods that get rained on are quite likely to discolor and/or develop mold.  And in my experience the beans will mature over the course of a few weeks, anyway.  The same will be true of the squash, and the corn for that matter, so it's not as though you'll have one or two "harvest days" and then be done.  Point being, I think you're just going to have to deal with getting in there and stepping carefully and harvesting things as they're ready.

Turkey Craw is a good cornfield bean too, for what it's worth.  I've found them to be very productive.  We also grew Genuine Cornfield, Cherokee Cornfield, and Good Mother Stallard last year; all did well.

As far as yield goes, how did Turkey Craw compare to Genuine Cornfield? I'm reading that Turkey Craw is 80 - 100 days. I'm guessing that the low end is for greens and the high end for dry? Did you leave any for dry beans and if so about how long did they take to reach that point?