Richard Cobbs

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since May 18, 2012
Yalaguina, Nicaragua
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Recent posts by Richard Cobbs

Looks like a very interesting plan.  I would consider using well tiles for the large skylights and maybe something like a solar tube for the bath.  If I remember right from Ken Kern, you can get up to five times as much light from a skylight as compared to a window.  Another thought, how about "Flowerbed" insulation?  Insulating foam sheets slightly under the surface and slightly sloped for drainage.
Good Luck,
RWC
1 year ago
I've been thinking about roundwood building for awhile and trying to come up with an easier means to join the timbers and braces.  A technique that seems quite interesting is the split-ring connector.  Unfortunately, the split-ring and the installation tool are very expensive.  I am considering making my own split-rings out of schedule 40 PVC pipe, cut to around 2” lengths and then angle-cut at 15 degrees to make the split.  A properly sized (I.D and O.D.) hole saw could cut in 1 1/8” in both of the mating surfaces, and the joint could be tightened with a SPAX type screw.
I would be interested to hear opinions on this type of connection.
Thanks,
RWC
Thank you very much, Chadwick!
RWC
I built a timber frame house many years ago and used homemade steel connectors that were hidden inside the beams. I connected the beams to the posts with 1/2" bolts. In order to hide the bolts, I used a standard 12" long by 1/2" diameter twist drill with a 1 1/2" forstner-type collar that attached to the 1/2" bit with set screws. This allowed me to drill the 1/2" hole completely thru the beam and bore the 1 1/2" hole in about 1 1/2" on one side, then using the 1/2" hole on the other side as a guide, bore the second 1 1/2" recess. I was then able to use standard washers on both ends of the bolt and cover the holes with 1 1/2" dowels. I would like to do something similar using round wood and star-type timber washers. Does anybody know where I can get this type of boring tool? It is essentially a flat faced forstner bit with a 1/2" hole in the middle that is secured to the 1/2" bit with set screws.
I have an Onan 5.0 KW CCK genset that I removed from my RV. This thing weighs 350 pounds and if I want to use it I will have to build a frame and wheel set up. I found a video on you tube with a small homebuilt tractor using a 1.5 hp electric motor and carrying the batteries to run it. I'm wondering if a skid steer loader could be made with two 2.5 hp treadmill motors and the genset to run them? I'll look for the video.
4 years ago
Hi, I'm in Nicaragua, where it is very hard and very expensive to get a lot of things. This being the case, I decided to try making some rustic furniture. I researched the web and found that tenon cutters were $250.00 for one! In order to get started I would need over $1000.00 plus shipping IF customs would let it through. I decided to try to build my own. Using a Harbor Freight 4" grinder and a 4" wood blade (shipped from England) and some galvanized pipe. It came out better than expected! It cuts a very nice flat end tenon from 3/4" to 6" in diameter, and up to 6" long without moving the cutting head. By moving the head, I could make a 6" dowel nine feet long! I haven't used it much yet; just bought a small lot and am starting to build. I did make a lounge swing that adjusts alll the way down to a bed. I tried to upload pictures, but my 26kbs internet connection shut me off.
Thanks Jay,
That explains why I never heard of it being done; nobody likes to broadcast their failures. Now to plan B. I like the stability of embedded posts and I recently made a machine that allows me to turn any size round tenon up to about 6". What I have in mind is 4" metal pipe piers set on a concrete footing and partially filled with concrete. The pipe would extend 12" minimum above ground and my post bottoms would be turned (rounded) to fit inside of the pipes. Probably keep the concrete 8" down inside the pipes and make the round tenon 6" long to separate the wood from the concrete. Also, probably a "washer" (metal plate with a four " diameter hole) so the wood has more to bear on than just the pipe. Any opinions, suggestions?.
Thanks,
RWC
Hi,
I'm looking for comments on wrapping posts in fiberglass and resin to prevent rot. I intend to wrap the bottom three feet and bury the post two feet deep. My thinking is that swimming pools, bathtubs, etc. are made out of fiberglass so it should work. All comments are welcomed.
Thanks,
RWC
Hi,
I'm building in Nicaragua and plan on using round wood. I built a tenoner out of pipe and a 4" Harbor Freight grinder with a 4" wood blade. I can make round tenons from 3/4" to 6" with my $60.00 machine. I intend to bury my posts 2' in the ground and will wrap the bottom three feet in two layers of fiberglass and resin. Has anybody done this? Any comments?
Thanks,
RWC