Tracy Lee

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since Sep 09, 2012
NW Arkansas
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Recent posts by Tracy Lee

Ames nursery will have fruit trees at the Fayetteville farmers mkt this Saturday.
2 years ago
Check out Ames nursery in fayetteville. This guy has spent 30 years trying different fruit trees in the ozark climate. Finding out what works organically and what doesn't work very without heavy spraying. he's a fountain of knowledge. His name is Guy Ames.
2 years ago
You might have already gotten your rocket stove figured out but if you still need help you might try contacting Paul and Lisa Majors form Garfield Ar. They built an earth bag home and they heat it with a rocket stove. They have also held classes on making one. He is also a heating and cooling guy by trade so he understands all the technical stuff. You can google them and find contact info that way. they have some youtube videos etc.
2 years ago
I also do almost all my garden beds on top of buried wood. We are fortunate to have a backhoe though because if I had to do it all by hand it wouldn't happen. I have blackberries like this and I almost never water them. At the base of a mountain that seeps water when we get a lot of rain I layered wood logs on top of the ground about 50 ft long and about 3 ft into the air, I covered that with dirt and straw. About 4 ft in front of that we dug a trench about a foot deep and filled that with wood. I topped that with dirt and straw and leaves. Basically created a garden bed from the edge of the raised hugelcuture mound to the outer edge of the sunken hugelkulture trench. In between raised and sunken wood I planted some peach trees from seed. Its 3 years later and the trees that the deer haven't trimmed off are about 7 ft high and I haven't watered in 3 years. Veggie garden that is done on top of sunken wood I do water but easily go a week or more in hundred degree heat with minimal wilting.  Love the concept and i am sure it is working for water retention but for me i am still struggling to learn to garden in my area amongst the forest. I have to much shade I believe that is affecting my ability to get things to grow in a lush healthy way. But I am getting there.  Healthiest looking garden so far this year. I also learned that I needed to fill the gaps between the wood with dirt or leaves. First beds I made this way I didn't do that and they settled almost a foot in a year and settled very unevenly. Tyler, I spent 30 years of my life in south, south texas. I did lots of gardening there and getting good water was a challenge. I wish I had known about all this down there. I could of had spectacular gardens. here is picture of asparagus bed done with underground wood. I haven't watered this bed or done really any maintenance on it in 4 years. Maybe 10 mins weeding in all that time. Nice little crop this year from it. Next picture is the raised hugelculture mound against the mountain and I am building the underground trench in front of it. This is where the peach trees got planted. No evidence of seeping water from that section of the mountain. It all gets captured in either raised or sunken hugelculture.
2 years ago
Thanks for the link Tyler. I am almost certain these are not the photos I saw. I remember the circle being bigger and the trunks intertwined in very appealing way, and higher, I would say the edge of the garden was 2-3 feet high. However these photos are a start, will help give hubby a visual of what I am talking about. Got a big pile of dried stumps and I would like to do something similar to that picture.
2 years ago
art
I am looking for a specific picture I saw approx 3-4 years ago. I think it was in this thread but I don't see it anymore. It was a big circular garden bed/edge done with tree stumps and then backfilled behind the stumps. Can anyone help me find that picture. Thanks
2 years ago
art
We ended up going with a product called platon to seal the wall. It is only attached at the top and drapes down like a curtain. It has little channels in it that direct any moisture that comes from the walls down to the footer. Easy to install, not off the charts expensive. We are going to insulate on the interior due to the amount of ants and bugs in our area and their propensity to channel in the foam.
2 years ago
I have the epdm which is why I wanted to use it but it is not a must use. The xypex looks interesting but I would still need to insulate the walls somehow. The roxul looks like a good product as well, however with all the steps and materials recommended I would make a good guess that the price would be out of range. Maybe I just have to do like Rob Roy did and put on a tar based product and imbedded 6 mil plastic in it, and then put foam board over that. Simple, inexpensive, but messy. These days he uses bituthene adhesive sheets and adheres them directly to the concrete. A good option to, very similar to the epdm I already have though. Honestly don't know which route to go. Have researched so many different options my head is spinning. Like most people on here building the houses we are budget is a big concern. If it wasn't i would just hire someone and be done with it. We do plan to put a dehumidifier in the crawl space to use as needed, but hope do minimize use by controlling moisture other ways.
2 years ago
Thanks Kevin for your imformative reply. The 4 rolls epdm I have are 35' - 40' long and 8' - 9' wide. The exterior diameter of our house is 32'x40' with a 4 ft opening/future door into crawl space located on a 40 ft side and opens to ground height on that wall so will not be bermed at all in that particular corner. If I started one 40' piece at door opening then it will wrap around corner, overlap with next piece and continue around until door opening. That would then only make 3 seams to seal. If the tape is proven to be a good sealer then that would be my preference unless I can buy a small can of adhesive. I had also thought I could start the epdm on the top side of the block poking holes through it where it would need to slip over the bolts for the sill plate, then put down the sill plate gasket and then the sill plate. That should certainly hold the epdm from slipping down and moisture coming up through the block into the sill plate. Is there any contradictions to having the rubber under the sill plate like that, we would put the regular foam gasket on top of the rubber as well? I have enough width to work with on the epdm the I could drape it down over the foundation and angle towards the drain pipe. Also the drain pipe will wrap the house and drain towards daylight with a couple access points where we can flush it out if need be. Sorry for the misunderstanding, I thought that was a french drain. Honestly don't think setting water or saturated soil for long will be much of an issue as we are on a mountain top and water quickly drains away. But certainly would rather overseal instead of under seal. On the part of the wall where I would like to cover the foam board with a rock veneer it wouldn't be a problem to screw the foam board to the concrete blocks on the top half as that won't be bermed anyway. I do realize we would have to puncture the epdm, just have to seal it good at those points and they will never be below grade. Also the 40ft side of the crawlspace that will be completely below grade will have a 10 ft porch/ overhang going the whole length of the house so all water will be directed away from the foundation on that side. Will also be using foam board that doesn't absorb moisture. Now to just figure out how to glue foam board to epdm. At least temporarily on side of house where it will be completely backfilled so as to make it easier to keep it in place.
2 years ago
I could probably drape the epdm and not attach to concrete. It would need to overlap itself and I would need to seal at those points. I still would need to attach the foam board insulation to the epdm. Not all of it will be totally bermed so I will need to attach it somehow.
2 years ago