Konstantin Kirsch

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since Dec 25, 2012
Started with permaculture 1986 I found my vision to develop living architecture. Since 1993 I planted about 10 living treedomes, the biggest out of more than 1000 trees. Always interested on developing a sustainable lifestyle I use my dreams for inspiration. In the year 2009 a dream of a self made money comes up (www.minutocash.org). Now I make research how to combine my treedomes with earthship, earthbag-building and rocketstove. I do love the Anastasia books and write a keyword directory for all the 10 books.
Middle of Germany
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Recent posts by Konstantin Kirsch

Hi David,

I recommend a product called "Promasil" made by Promat (Germany).
It is made from Calcium Silicate

Promasil has half the weight from vermiculite, much better insulation and a third of the price!

here you can find some (german) information:
http://www.wolfshoehe.de/wt/fileadmin/wolfshoehe/template/downloads/gb/Promasil_950_KS.pdf
http://www.schamotte-radeburg.de/fileadmin/firm_admin/pdf/datprow.pdf
http://www.promat-hpi.com/downloads/get/de-DE/E7779B63B4B04D0F8BD9F147F7C5AA69

here I found some info in englisch:
http://www.promat-hpi.com/en/products/calcium-silicates
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Promat-PROMASIL-950-KS-Insulation-Protection/dp/B00NB2XZLU





Konstantin
3 years ago
Hi Erik,

the copper workes well, but the waterpot has not enough water in it. I produce much more boiling water than needed. In the time the feed tube gets too hot even I cool it with this system. So I found that the cooling of the feed tube is very importand. I'm realy thinking of making an aktive water cooling system direct around the feed tube.

Konstantin
4 years ago
Hi
just today I received 3 copies of this book in printed form for free!
I realy do like to read it on physical paper.

Even the book is written in Germany, paid by german tax payers and published from a german office, its written in english language.
I believe thats nice for you

Konstantin
4 years ago
Hi Permies,
there is a book with 175 pages free to download:

Micro-gasification.
An introduction to concepts and applications of wood-gas burning technologies for cooking.
2nd revised edition


Acknowledgements
This manual was initiated and supported by Dr Marlis Kees, manager of the sector
programme Poverty-oriented Basic Energy Services (HERA) at the Deutsche Gesellschaft
für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH. Without her support and that of the
entire HERA-team, the world’s first resource for micro-gasifiers (1st edition) and its
update (2nd edition) would not have been created.
Unless otherwise indicated, all the contents of this manual were written by Christa Roth.
Dr Paul Anderson and Dr Hugh McLaughlin (Professional Engineer, PhD) are the
co-authors of Chapter 2, having also provided substantial contributions as well as
technical review for the other chapters. Kelpie Wilson (Wilson Biochar Associates)
and Thayer Thomlinson (Communications Director at the International Biochar
Initiative) contributed to Chapter 5.




Please note:

This manual was made possible by the tax-payers of the Federal Republic of Germany,
administered by the Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit GmbH (GIZ).
As such, this information is not copy-righted and resides in the public domain. Text
passages may be quoted from this manual provided that credit is given to the source.


I live in Germany and pay tax on anything I buy...
I realy do not like to pay tax on watching money be used for so much senseless things
...but for this book it was well done.

So please enjoy what I had helped to get financed.



I found two links to download the second edition from 2014 (pdf-File, 5,4 MB):
http://www.giz.de/fachexpertise/downloads/giz2014-en-micro-gasification-manual-hera.pdf
https://energypedia.info/wiki/File:Micro_Gasification_2.0_Cooking_with_gas_from_dry_biomass.pdf

If you want to get the first edition from 2011 you find it here:
http://www.biochar-international.org/sites/default/files/HERA-GIZ%20micro-gasification%20manual%20V1.0%20January%202011.pdf

Konstantin
4 years ago
Hi Matt,

you can find lots of infos on this website:
http://www.arborsmith.com/

Konstantin
4 years ago
The best supplier of peltier panels / thermal electric generators I know is this company in germany: http://thermalforce.de/
Here is the list of products they offer: http://thermalforce.de/de/product/module/index.php
For use with a RMH my be usefull these items:

LED-Generator with 3,2 to 3,8 V, 5 to 30 mA.

Datasheet: http://thermalforce.de/de/download/m201d.pdf

Accu charger

Data sheet: http://thermalforce.de/de/download/m2503.pdf

30W generator

Data sheet: http://thermalforce.de/de/download/m1225.pdf

For use in gas fired systems they do have also different solutions, bis the temperature in RMH-chimneys is too low and RMH is fired with wood.






This one is also usable in wood fired systems:
12 V; 2 to 3,5 A
max temp of gas: 400°C / water temp 25°C
diameter: 150 mm


Data sheet: http://thermalforce.de/de/download/m2070.pdf

Then there is one more system to use on top of the chimney. But you need there a
temperature of about 70 to 130°C


This company offers also the parts to construct something specialised. Look at this page:
http://thermalforce.de/de/product/thermogenerator/index.php

You find this item:

This is made for temperature up to 1000°C
Data sheet: http://thermalforce.de/de/product/thermogenerator/097-300-33.pdf

They offer so many things, may be they have much more which is not shown on the website.
Just ask them

Konstantin
4 years ago
My concern is more the weight of the gases and not the volume. From a firestove specialist I heard that the gases which go to the chimney gets cooler and so the volume gets smaller and so its right to make the diameter of the stovepipe slowly smaler. As I tried this I found that with RMH its better if the diameter stays the same or better gets bigger on the way.

I think its worth a try.

Konstantin
4 years ago
I just found a drawing from Kirk Mobert which goes in the direction what I want to explain:
http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/6199/60253#60253



The cold water is in the downstream of the hot gases and helpes the draft.

I think its much more easy to use a "Badeofen" instead of building a bell with watertank inside.

Its also possible to use a dragonheater core for good combustion, build the heatriser with some clay/adobe around the vermiculite riser and connect this to the "Badeofen".
4 years ago

Satamax Antone wrote:
What i'm trying to explain, is that there is, out there double layer water heaters, which can be cut at the bottom to form a barrel with a water jacket. Last one i have cut had a 1 1/2 inch gap between the two barrels. You would just have to weld the bottom of the water jacket, and be done with a nice barrel with water cooling



Now I got you!
I see that I'm not enough out there at the scrap yards...
4 years ago
Hi,

my main thought of using the "Badeofen" is to use the coldness of the water to optimise the draft in the system. The usuall barrel does the job. But if you use water you cool better, so the draft gets better.
To get warm water is a nice side effect.

Konstantin
4 years ago