Aaron Yarbrough

The stair landing needs some finishing details but is functional. So we can all have some closure and for your (possible) enjoyment here is the build video:



Thanks for all of your comments and advice.

Matt McSpadden wrote:
How has it held up?

Really well. However, my sister house sat for us last year and used some substance that managed to leave a stain. It's pretty easy to buff out and re-oil though. Five years of use and my wife and I haven't had any issues.

We used 2x6 tongue and groove boards for our countertops. On the the underside we fastened the the boards together with pocket screws so we didn't have to use any glue. We applied a couple of coats of linseed oil to the top and reapply every 6 months or so.

Matt McSpadden wrote:

Now, I am trying to figure out, the outside. The roof is a gambrel roof, which does not lend itself to extending the eaves... which means a plaster finish is probably not a good idea. And I am learning about the benefits of having a rainscreen behind the siding.

If I were to do some sort of wooden clapboard siding, a normal rainscreen created by strapping is simple. But if I wanted to use cedar shingles (which is what is on there currently), the only rainscreen I can find is a plastic mesh that is stapled up. Slicker Classic Rainscreen specifically. It looks like it would do the function just fine... but if I am trying to minimize plastic in the renovation, I wonder if there are any other options?

Does anyone know of a natural option for a rainscreen with shingles? Or maybe a natural wall does not need a rainscreen as much as a modern style wall?

It's pretty labor intensive but you could do a lime plaster base coat, attach furring strips over that and then put on on your shingles/siding. The shingles/siding protects the lime plaster from the worst of the wind driven moisture and any moisture that makes it behind the shingles/siding will be shed by the lime plaster.

leila hamaya wrote:something i have been thinking about lately is the feasibility of retrofitting old interior walls with light clay straw.
of course in a new build its a different matter because you are starting from scratch, but when dealing with an old house already built, what is built and the way it works may not be immediately apparent...if you could just replace old walls with light clay straw.

I think light clay straw(LCS) in interior walls is a great idea. LCS is great for sound deadening. Downside with a retrofit if you might have to adjust your electric boxes. In conventional home boxes are mounted 1/2" or so proud of the studs to accommodate for the thickness of the drywall. So, you would have remount each electrical box flush with the studs and then use a mud ring to fur it out to the depth of the the plaster. Also, you need a mechanical key to the stud bay to "grab" the LCS. I typical fasten a 1 x 2 running lengthwise on each side of the stud.  

I just did lathe and plaster on a conventionally framed and insulated wall and really like it. Ripping lathes was kind of a pain but the plaster came out great. I've heard that you apply and earthen/lime plaster but never tried it myself.

I also like wood shiplap for both interior and exterior but you're right that a good roof overhang is key any natural finish.

Nancy Reading wrote:I'm a little concerned that you may end up with a glory hole below the landing on top of the roof. Stuff could fall down and not be retrievable, or unwanted visitors might make a nest in there. I'd make sure you can get under there with a broom if you need to.

Thoughts...maybe it could be a habitat for some wild life that you would want...bats? birds? But then maybe the decking would be waterproof and the underroof redundant. Just wondering.

You're right it could become a leaf/debris trap. I could leave a little gap between the roof and ledger board and then attach piece of angle flashing or drip edge on the ledger board just below the joists to cover the gap. See picture attached. That would allow me to use a leaf blower to clear the roof.

Thanks for the responses!

John C Daley wrote:
- The diagonal or knee braces on the ends should extend down to the base of the column for max. strength against movement

I'm trying to keep the ends somewhat open for accessibility. Ideally, it would be best if it was fully cross-braced. Do you know of any rules for knee brace placement? I typically locate them about 1/4 of the post height down from the post beam connection.    

John C Daley wrote:
- roof could extend past the beams 2 inches or so for a gutter

Sounds good. If the parents go with a barn style door it won't interfere with the operation.

Mike Haasl wrote:
I'd try to make the railing posts be the same wood as the support posts.  They'll be much beefier that way.

That's a good idea especially for the new post. For the one sistered on to the car port post the car port roof may interfere.  

The landing for my parents' exterior stairway rotted out and we're trying to retrofit a new landing without replacing the whole stair. They also want to have some covered storage under the landing for lawn equipment. It's not a very Permie project but I like the design challenge of function stacking a stair landing with covered storage. I've attached some pictures of the existing state of the stairway. Here is a proposed design I came up with this morning.



It will take quite a few structural fasteners that I'm not super pleased with but I probably won't be building it and want to make it a fairly easy build. If you have any tips or suggestions I would appreciate it.

Josh Hoffman wrote:Those of you who have incorporated loft spaces and/vaulted ceiling into you building, do you regret the decision to do so? The added space is a pretty big positive.

The added space is nice. Construction is not as fun because working at height is slower. We built with cob and light clay straw so there were also heavy materials to move up.  

Josh Hoffman wrote:I have done a lot of roof sheathing or ceiling repair on vaulted ceilings. Moisture issues with them seem common.  

We haven't had an issue.

Josh Hoffman wrote:I have no firsthand experience with a loft but I have heard they make temperature regulation difficult if not exacerbating.

Yes, last year I installed a new mini split unit with one head in the loft. That handles cooling in the loft. For heating our wood stove downstairs heats the loft well enough  

Josh Hoffman wrote:The reason I am asking is that I am trying to determine if it makes more sense to increase the foot print of the house or incorporate a loft. Thanks in advance for sharing your experiences.

I don't regret building a house with a loft but that being said my next house build will be single level. Primarily that's because I don't feel confident that I'll be able to climb the alternating tread stair to our loft bedroom when I'm 80.