Rico Loma wrote:I forgot to add:
Try different chainsaws as you work on tree trimming, please. I am no expert, but I keep learning as i go. Also over time I have learned more about balance and accuracy while cutting at 20-40 ft elevation. Certainly recommend electric 14 inch and 6 inch saws if possible, the lack of power is counterbalanced by great results,
David Baillie wrote:
I would say you hit the nail on the head. The new generation of all in one inverters have taken over from the more traditional transformer based units. Along with multi charge controllers for different producing strings you also get code approved 2 way communication with the new lithium battery packs. Lithium is a game changer as well as you can get full array production since they have low resistance to charging unlike lead and you don't waste time at the high voltage low amperage low production absorb stage. It has forced solar designers to change their ways as we now maximize panel numbers due to low panel costs as our first priority. On the down side you are usually best to repanel completely so you can maximize your strings and the all in one inverters are terrible at lead acid charging as they lack a proper 3 stage charging profile. The EG 4 mentioned above is a rebadged lux inverter, LUX being my prefered inverter these days. Solark is another name to check out. Being in Ontario I am forced to comply with UL9540 which is rules around 2 way communication between battery and inverter so not all brands of batteries will qualify. These days I am installing Pytes batteries. Its a brave new world. I fully agree that your first step should be aggressive trimming. Also mentioned was bifacial panels... They would be of no real benefit to you on a roof as they can catch no reflection on the back side.
Cheers, David
Michael Qulek wrote:
I would suggest neither replacing you panels, or your inverter/charge controller is a good idea. You can simply upgrade your system by adding additional strings in another location.
First, before diving in, please explain in detail your inverter and charge controller settings, what the voltage/amperage limits of each? Those numbers are critical to proper design. What voltages and amperages are you running through your wiring right now?
I could suggest a couple of things, based on my own personal experience with my own system upgrades. It looks like you have your panels wired 4S3P, is that correct? I guestimate that your strings are running at ~150VDC? Is that correct? What is the Voc of those panels? How low are your winter lows? I would guess the Voc of your strings might exceed 200V around freezing or so?
Michael Qulek wrote:
One easy way to add capacity is through what is referred to as "virtual tracking", that is positioning additional strings of panels in directions other than South. For my own system, my primary arrays also face South, but I have additional arrays designed to face East, and West. I say "designed" because they are all on single-pole rotating ground mounts. You could do exactly the same. You could place a ground mount facing due East to catch morning sun, or a West-facing mount for the late afternoon. Besides my 4500W of South-facing panels (but can be rotated), I have 1000W facing East, and another 2000W facing West. I'm planning on adding another 1000W on to the West-facing array (3000W total) because I typically need a lot more at 5pm, instead of 8am.
Michael Qulek wrote:
It's important that string voltage be within 5% of each other, but amperage may vary from string to string. That means you do NOT have to have exactly the same panels, just match the voltages. Any string putting out between 143-157V is going to work just fine.
Michael Qulek wrote:
With ground mounts, and string voltages in the 150V range, you can run at least 150' from the charge controller with zero voltage drop. Right now, I'm running 120VDC for ~130' through 10 gauge copper, and I can't measure any voltage drop at all.
Douglas Campbell wrote:
I just helped with a similar upgrade at latitude 46.
Where are you?
We left the existing roof panels,
and added a ground mount array at a steeper angle for season extension and snow shedding.
Your roof pitch looks quite shallow for anything except summer; unless you are equatorial.
Bifacials will not give much extra benefit on a roof; little light from below.
We used an EG4 12kpv all in one, with 2 mppt.
Each mppt can accept 2 identical input strings. The 2 mppt do not have to be balanced.
We needed the EG4 12kpv for cold weather; there are other options for above freezing.
Rico Loma wrote:
Are trees too near the house for safety's sake? When I had shaded panels and entertained your suggestion to boost power, I stopped to take a long look at all trees close to my house. Spending a long weekend with a chainsaw also improved my sunlight, so I hit repeat for the following short weekend. While on this vendetta I found some surprise interior rot , typical red oak, darn good idea I cut before the next big storm. A year later a midsized pine was snapped in a storm and hit my house, just replaced shingles that time.
Burra Maluca wrote:
First things first, how many barrels would we need?
Paul's system is standardised on a 32 gallon can, which he feels with 5 people will take about 3 months to fill. Then you need enough barrels so you can store them for two years so they are pathogen-free by the time they are opened again.
We have five barrels so far, with no idea how big they are. 32 gallons is a bit over 120 litres. So the first thing to do was to take one of them and set it under the orange tree, which needs watering anyway, fill it with water and count out how many litres of water were in it by scooping them out one at a time and emptying them under the tree.