Darryl Roederer

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since Jun 29, 2013
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Recent posts by Darryl Roederer

Kyrt Ryder wrote:If you happen to figure out breeding Silver Carp, please report back here with your methods and results.

5 years ago

Dan Boone wrote:What would be the benefits of your proposal from a *permacultural* perspective? Does it have fewer off-site inputs? Does it fit better with your other plant and animal systems? I am trying to spot the permaculture payoff but -- probably because I don't know much about aquaponics -- I am missing it. Help...


I can think of a few benefits...
For starters, replacement fish stocks are as near as the local river for anyone who lives in the eastern 1/2 of the united states. The Mississippi, Ohio, Illinois, and Cumberland River[s] are choked full of Asian Carp. If your AP system ever suffered a catastrophic setback and you lost your entire stock, replacement would be easy and inexpensive with mature breeders free for the taking from local waterways. Unlike Tilapia which tend to be QUITE expensive for breeding pairs and are only available as fry or fingerling in bulk.

An unheated pond/tank along with reduced pumping and bubbling requirements would translate to reduced energy requirements, which could mean a higher likelyhood of an off grid solar/wind powered AP system being a reality... Maybe not, but of nothing else, reduced electricity bills are usually welcomed by everyone.

Carp, being heartier and less temperamental than Tilapia would translate to reduced work load to the owner. Less work, more free time, fewer worries.

The "dirty" nature of carp means more nutrients for your plants compared to Tilapia. That translates to fewer fish to worry about for an existing AP system, or more veggie production from the same sized pond/tank.

As it currently stands, (common) carp are widely used in AP setups, but for the most part, carp are not considered as "food" in this country. I'm just proposing that we consider a different variety of carp, one that's currently viewed as a pest, as an option because it "might" offer some benefits that we haven't thought of up to this point.
5 years ago
This post will probably stir up some controversy. LOL
Actually I'm looking forward to it. I just want to get a good discussion going on these topics so if you have something negative to say about my thoughts/ideas, then by all means do so. All I ask is that you do so in a CONSTRUCTIVE manner.

*DISCLAIMER*
Everything I'm posting here is based off simple online research and YouTube videos, so I cant vouch for the accuracy of ANY of it. It's also worth pointing out that since tha Asian Carp is a distructive invasive species in this country, most of the online info about them is slanted in a negative direction. Finding cold hard facts about dietary requirements and conversion rates has been difficult at best. Since there's no definitive source I could locate, I've had to piece together a handful of assumptions, beliefs, and ideas to come up with this list. If you can provide some links to hard data that conflicts or confirms my own research, please feel free to do so.

Topic number one, The Asian Carp...
What can I say about the fish we all love to hate? Well, lets start with what I've learned online.
1. They're delicious according to most people. Superior to Tilapia according to most.
2. They're voracious breeders, approaching the breeding rates of Tilapia.
3. They're fast growers, nearly matching the growth rates of our beloved Tialapia in the first year, and then FAR exceeding them in later years.
4. They're as hearty as Catfish, being both hot and cold water tolerant and can survive in dirty and/or low oxygen environments that would kill even the toughest Tilapia hybrids.
5. They're highly adaptable filter/bottom feeders, meaning they can thrive on algae, plant matter, scraps, insects, etc.
6. Their food to flesh conversion rates are extremely high. Not quite as good as a Chocolate Tilapia, but it does exceed the rates of some other Tilapia breeds.
7. They're Carp... That means "dirty fish"... That means MORE valuable fish waste to feed the veggies in an AP system than Tilapia could provide.

Topic number two, incorporating Asian Carp into an AP system.
There are 4 species of Asian Carp in this country. The silver, big head, grass, and black. The black carp is a carnivore. It's diet consists of snails, muscles, and mollusks. The grass carp is a strict herbivore, surviving on a diet of roots, water grass, duckweed, etc. The black carp is a bottom dwelling filter feeder, much like the catfish. The silver is a filter feeder also, but is more a midrange fish that primarily thrives on zooplankton and algae but is also known to bottom feed on scraps. My thoughts are that a mix of 90% silver and 10% bighead would be ideal for a closed AP system. An open system that would be capable of supporting duckweed or even bottom grass might benefit from a couple grass carp as well... But for the sake of this discussion I'm going to concentrate on the Silver Asian Carp as the ideal AP fish.
1. They can tolerate extremely high density levels. Even as high as 3 lbs per gallon.
2. They are extremely dossile fish that will even allow you to pet them. Much less flighty than Tilapia... Tho it's worth pointing out that boat motors and extremely loud noises can make them jump out of the water. This shouldn't be an issue in an AP system.
3. Being natural filter feeders, they would control any algae blooms that might occur.
4. They do not require shade like Tilapia do.
5. Since they produce more waste than Tilapia, grow bed area could be increased relative to tank size.
6. No pond heating is required since they are cold water tollerant, They can even survive under a layer of ice.
7. Electricity requirements could be reduced since the water is higher in waste (more nutrition per gallon of water pumped equals less water turnover required)
8. Even in cold climates that do year round AP growing, the water would only need to be heated to 40* F so as to not shock the roots of the plants instead of the ~60*+ F required for Tilapia.

Topic number three, Cheap dog food as fish food.
Before you roll your eyes at this idea, first go grab a bag of your current Tilapia food. Have a look at it's protein content, fat content, carb content, and skim over the ingredients list. Next do a google search for "Ol Roy protein content". Click around a few of the links and you'll quickly learn that they're nearly both a dead on match for each other ingredient for ingredient and nutrition level for nutrition level. across the board. The real difference as far as I can tell is that I can get a 50 pound bag of Ol Roy dog food at Walmart for $17.98... That works out to about .36 cents per pound... How much are you spending per pound on fish food? I'm willing to bet it's several DOLLARS per pound.

Ok, so those are my thoughts on the subject, and yes, I've highlighted the positive side of things. Naturally there are some negatives as well...
1. Asian Carp in an AP system is an un-tested and un-known entity. I'm NOT suggesting anyone should embrace the idea. I'd just like to open a dialog to discuss the merits.
2. Fish food is formulated for fish, and dog food for dogs. I'm NOT suggesting anyone should embrace this idea either... But again, let's talk about this.
3. Asian Carp has a wholesale value of about .25 cents a pound, so come fish harvesting time your return on investment could be significantly impacted compared to Tilapia. Again, let's discuss these issues.
4. Tho the asian carp has completely infested our countries waterways, there are still laws on the books in some states that restrict ownership and/or transport of them. These laws should be looked at before undertaking this venture.
5. When eaten, Carp is a bone-fish, meaning a filet will have lots of small bones in it compared to Tilapia that does not. Depending on your feelings about these bones, eating a carp may be a much less enjoyable experience than eating a Tilapia.

What are your thoughts?
5 years ago
A friend of mine is in the process of buying a log cabin on a few acres in North Carolina. The cabin was originally built in the 1880's, and it was moved and rebuily in it's current location in the 1970's. All was going well with the loan process untill they called their insurance company (GEICO), and they said they wouldn't touch that house because it was so old. They consider it a high risk. Personally I think that's kinda crazy since the cabin has seen 3 centuries without a major disaster... But at any rate, can you guys suggest a major carrier who deals in these issues? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
6 years ago
cob
I dont know who or where to ask this question, but I'm hoping there's someone here who's got some hands on knowledge and can help.

I'm working on some plans for a hydraulic CEB press. I feel my plans are well laid out and I've actually started gathering parts to put it together. I found a cylinder on craigslist that's 5 inches diameter with 17 inches of travel. I'll be using a 5.5 hp Briggs engine to power it. My problem comes from sourcing a pump. I've read around on the net and learned that a power steering pump from a car will do the trick. I've even read that I could use one from a good sized truck like a school bus.

The problem I'm having is finding reliable info on how much hp it takes to turn one of these P/S pumps, how much pressure they will reliably build, and how much pressure I can get from the hydraulic ram before I stall the engine.

If anyone can help point me in the right direction, I'd really appreciate it
6 years ago
cob
In my quest to educate myself on green and environmentally responsible building techniques, I've come across several YouTube videos of antique shingle mills powered ny tractors or steam engines. If you've never seen one of these things in action you should most definitely search it out and watch the video.

At any rate, as nostalgic as having a hundred and twenty year old piece of technology might be, I'm thinking more practically. I see no reason why a more modern version couldn't be fabricated using a bandsaw and some sort of clockwork cutting table. I've searched but come up empty.

Does anyone know of any plans out there that could address this need? Or, does anyone know of a modern shingle mil that could be had at a reasonable price?

Thanks in advance
6 years ago
I've done the math based on the surface area of the structure I want to build and arrived at a number, but I'm curious to hear from others on the subject. Should I automatically plan to order 10% surplus? 20%? Just trying to get a real world idea from those who have been thru the process of how many bales they actually ended up needing compared to how many they thought they were going to need?

Windows and doors will automatically provide a surplus once subtracted from the total wall area, but then there are things like rejected bales, tied bales, waste, extra material to fill gaps, etc.

Just wanting to hear some real world stories from folks who thought they would need "X" number of bales but ended up using more or less, and why.
6 years ago
Jay,
I understand where you're coming from. Infact, it's for these very reasons I'm making this proposal here on Permies. WE need a rating system that gives us HONEST information. I'd have little success proposing these ideas to the greenwashing cookie-cutter McMansion builders and their lobbyists because they'd hate the idea... Or at least they'd water it down to the point that the values would have little practical meaning.

On the other hand, if those of us who live and/or appreciate the eco lifestyle developed our own scales and measurements for eco-friendliness, and those measurements could be evenly applied to any structure out there, then it has an honest chance of actually meaning something.
6 years ago
cob
Hey everyone!
First off, I'm posting this in the cob section because it gets the most traffic, but I'd like to propose an idea that would give a simple rating system to ALL structures that expresses just how eco-friendly it is in one simple line of data. I'd like everyones input on this idea as well as help developing it.

I got this idea the other day when I saw a local home builders television commercial touting the eco-friendliness and environmentally responsible method in which they constructed homes... I checked out their web site and learned that there was little truth behind those claims. While sourcing local lumber and adding additional insulation to the homes they build gets them good marks in my book, it had nothing to do with saving the planet.

Additionally, the term eco-friendly is relative to so many different things, and it has so many broad meanings that in reality, it has little practical application to regular folks outside of our "true eco" community. Wouldn't it be nice if there was a standard rating system we could use like other fields do... Like for example, A+, 100%, R-36, 7 out of 10, etc. When you hear those terms, you instantly know what they mean. An A+ is better than an F, 100% is better than 20%, and so on.

Naturally, when talking about something as encompassing as a whole house, we would need a scale that's a little more detailed than a simple grade or percentage to explain the list of factors that make a structure eco friendly, and this is where I'm seeking input.

Some of the factors that define eco-friendly:

*The environmental impact of the build (to the land, the community, etc. Including waste disposal, water sourcing, etc)
*The carbon footprint of the construction (including materials transportation, materials production, etc)
*The energy requirements of the completed structure to sustain it's inhabitants (passive, grid tied, solar, wood burning, etc)
*The eco-friendliness of the construction materials (cement, asphalt shingles, cob, straw bale, etc)
And so on
And so forth.....

Wouldn't it be nice if all of these factors could be plugged into a spread-sheet and given a numeric value that had real meaning and could convey solid data about just how friendly, sustainable, and green a building truly is?

In my mind, I'm seeing a 3 part value... Something along the lines of 10/A+/100 for a perfect eco home, where a McMansion might get a rating of 1/F-/12, or something like that. I see a use in putting together such a scale, but I'm asking for help to gather some hard and fast rules about what the numbers and ratings would mean and how they would apply to different structures.

If it's a stupid idea, feel free to tell me so and I'll let the idea die on the vine. Otherwise, your input would be appreciated.

6 years ago
cob
Christopher, first of all, welcome to the Permies forum.
Biofuels Technology makes some excellent conversion kits. They have many happy customers with millions of greasy miles running WVO. My best advice to you is to click on the forum link on that web site and join in the conversation there.

Here are a few other forums you could do some research on as well.

http://www.biofuelstechnologies.com/forums/

http://www.veggiegarage.net/forum/

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/bio-diesel-alternative-fuels-supplements/

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f22/

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=cfrm&s=447609751

If you have any specific questions, I'll be happy to answer them for you.Just ask. I've got over 150,000 miles on veggie oil and was an original pioneer in the on board filtration process. I'm also the inventor of the world famous SBC pump. You'll find a post about the SBC pump right here on Permies, and if you're going to get into WVO, you'll be needing at least one of them. LOL
6 years ago