Laylah Sullivan wrote:I am just beginning my research on masonry heaters. Has anyone had experience in eastern WA (specifically Whitman County) of getting these approved?
Hi Laylah, My name is Tom and I live over near Twin Falls, Idaho (not too far away). I'm building a medium sized house. I've decided to build a masonry heater to heat this house. Hopefully next year I will build the heater (foundation done so far). Here is what I've learned/done so far,
* The masonry heater's association www.mha-net.org has the most information on masonry heaters.
* I presented my house plans and the masonry heater building plans I obtained from the MHA to the county building department.
* I got the ok to build a masonry heater from the plans however the county instructed me I needed to show them how I was going to support such a heavy thing (up to 12,000 pounds) in the house.
* I'm building a concrete slab - 4" thick - and where the masonry heater sits the slab will be 10" thick with reinforcement. The county was good with this.
* I'm going with a smaller masonry heater, should weigh 5 or 6,000 pounds.
A masonry heater is safer than a fireplace or a RMH because the fire is enclosed. It is safer than a wood stove because it is much thicker with and inner layer of fire brick and an outer layer of brick or rock. And a MH only requires one or two 2 hour fires a day instead of 24/7 burning of wood like a wood stove.
If you are building a new house you will need to have a concrete slab or footing where the MH is going. I've seen where metal braces/supports have been used, too. I've been figuring out how to build a MH for about $800 - that is a 100% functional MH. The way I am saving $$ is,
* Building a smaller contraflow style MH (2'x3'x6.5') which will require less materials (about 60% less material than the large contraflow MH). Reasoning? - My house is passive solar and well insulated so this smaller heater should be fine although in the winter I may need to fire it twice a day.
* Using a large cast iron fireplace clean-out door for the masonry heater door - my cost $43. It is 100% functional but no you won't be able to see the fire. The door has a 12" x 12" opening (big enough). A cheap masonry heater door with glass is $600 and expensive ones are $2000.
* Outer material - by flexible here. Free river rock of the proper shape and size work fine (no sand stone, granite types are good). Or reclaimed brick works good. I've gathered reclaimed brick for $20 and for free. I went to a rock quarry and for $20 they let me pick through there discard pile of stone. Stones in the 1 to 4 brick size that are 3" to 5" thick are ideal - I found lots of these. The quarries commonly discard this size for being too small. The stones are nice with at least 2 straight edges and flashy colors.
Fire brick is a must and unless you can find it used and clean you will have to shell out $200 to $300 for it. And you will need a bucket or 2 of mortar (~$50/bucket), and a couple bags of refractory cement ($50/bag). There are a few others little parts needed like clean-out doors and an air inlet but that is most of it. Of course there is a lot of physical work collecting stones/bricks. And It may take some time to build. But a masonry heater that is well constructed is a very good (the best in my opinion) way to burn firewood. I hope I've helped!
