Dan Malone

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since Nov 14, 2013
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Bonney Lake, WA (Zone 8a)
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Recent posts by Dan Malone

Road Update:

We have finished the road construction, and I am very happy with how it came out. We put down gravel on the first 300 ft of the road to the parking area for all season access, and I seeded the rest last weekend. We'll see how it hold up to the test of time.







9 years ago
The property was selectively cleared 25 years ago, so I am not cutting down that many trees. I also plan to re-plant a new tree for everyone I cut.

9 years ago
Here is the latest version (v7). I have decided to go with Rolling dips instead of culverts. to save money, and to reduce maintenance.



9 years ago

Dillon Nichols wrote:Wow, that's a lot of road on 10 acres! If it was my land, I'd probably put in less road... but it's hard to say exactly how and where. Without a much better understanding of the terrain, vegetation, and usage patterns on your land, it's hard to advise on specifics... You've obviously put a lot of time/thought into this, and my suggestions probably won't fit your goals all that well... but maybe they'll spark some idea of your own that will?


On my parents ~8 acres in Victoria, with slope similar to the eastern portion of your land, we have a lane through the orchard area to access the aux. firewood storage, shed/apple storage, greenhouse, garden, and gully where much of the wood comes from. It might possibly have seen 20 trips between the pickup & the 1.5 ton flatbed in the busiest year. A lot of things can be readily moved by wheelbarrow. No trailers, wood is cut to fit the trucks before moving. In practice although the flatbed can take ~16ft logs with the tailgate off, everything ends up cut shorter for ease of moving it to the truck anyhow.

There are no water controls at all. The vehicle path follows the path of gentlest slope. This has worked fine for decades with no signs of any erosion at all, BUT, it only works because we time our visits with a bit of consideration for the weather, never driving up there when the ground is very wet. If there is heavy rainfall we wait at least day or two afterwards. I always put the trucks in 4wd/low gear to avoid any minor wheel-slip that would damage the ground.

Where there is slope equal to or greater than the east side of your property, we just don't drive. If a tree needs to come up, it gets pulled out in pieces with a come-along, or a cable to a truck if close enough. The one exception, a rarely used steep access ramp to the gully area, is eroding steadily, even if it isn't driven on, and will need remediation at some point fairly soon. It is loose rock, and I don't think it would be serviceable as seeded dirt.


What they DON'T get with this system is any sort of firebreak or any sort of easy way to use a trailer, but we haven't got a trailer anyhow.


On other properties that I've worked on, trailers were critical, as their vehicles didn't have enough space to serve as real trucks. However, it was really not a big deal to turn the trailer around if a dedicated spot or two was in place for this. Because it's the same trailer, and the same couple spots every time, it quickly becomes an easy routine. Generally these could also double as trailer parking spots. In my opinion the labor saved by reducing the amount of road required by so much is well worth the minor hassle.


As far as the firebreak goes, I can certainly see the appeal, but I'd probably choose to spend the time/effort/money differently. A 15ft firebreak wouldn't do much here, where any dangerous fire would easily jump that via the overlapping forest canopy above. How I'd deal with this would depend again on the property, and the directions a fire seems most likely to come from. Could be clearing out dead brush throughout the property, or a broader firebreak around the higher value portions of the property, or rooftop sprinklers and the pond to feed them from...


I assume the various lettered shapes are parking, barn, greenhouse? office? shed? What is 'A'? In any case, they're all on the west side, where the slope is much friendlier. I really don't have any problem with that half, it's the east side where I'd want to cut back dramatically.

Another advantage of going away from the current circle design is a reduction in culverts. If the water can be taken past the end of a dead-end road and dumped into a swale or pond with no culvert required, this is a good thing in my books. I don't like culverts; they cost money, need maintenance, and sooner or later they clog up and the road gets trashed. Walk an old logging road and the culverts are probably the most common failure points...

Finally, if you do stay with the circle layout, what about deleting the diagonal crossconnect to the east of the pond site? Seems like you'd still have a full loop using the roadway to drive back to the main entrance... or are there things in that specific portion that need access?


Hope something in there is of some use!



Thank you for the long and thoughtful response.

You are pretty close on the letters. [P]arking, [B]arn, [G]reenhouse, [S]hed/tiny cabin, [O]utdoor eating area, [A]mphitheater, [H]ouse {floorplan pic}. The buildings are 5+ years out and pond don't exist yet either but there is a natural depression there that I hope to leverage it for a pond. The road to East, South, and & west of the pond already exists, so they are kinda a freebies. I just need to regrade/recrown them. The outer loops are the main additions. I am having a reputable large excavation company perform the work. They will be mainly using a Cat 320CLU and a D5 dozer.

I plan to make a circular road because it is a very efficient shape. The vegetation is so thick that a cleared road is the only way to access those areas of the property. The road would be used regularly for foot traffic, with the option of seasonal driving when weather is accommodating.

I agree that culverts suck, and am currently exploring alternative drainage options like rolling dips. see updated design below. Ideally, I would like to have no Culverts, but I am working towards that goal.

P.s. I know that rolling dips should not be placed on curves. The picture is deceiving. The will be a 40 ft straight-away on each end of the curves where the rolling dips are. it will follow the contour lines creating a giant sil to over flow.
9 years ago

Rene Nijstad wrote:Hi Dan,

I'm looking at your design and I'm wondering what you want to accomplish. It's a fairly straightforward design which would allow you to drive around the property. I don't see it going to specific spots on the site that need access. Maybe you don't really need that much road?

Building the road like this is not only going to be a lot of work, but also the roads will be quite steep. You could try to avoid that and make a central road that goes sort of diagonal on the contour lines with small dead-end roads on contour to reach areas that are of specific interest.

What I would include in a design like this is what to use the runoff water for, either feeding ponds or swales so you won't create extra erosion below the culverts you have planned in.



There are some spots that I would like to access that are not marked, but the road is more of an access road that I would be using seasonally. I would be used to haul firewood from downed trees and harvest Zone 3 crops. I made it a loop so I don't have to turn around with a trailer, it also acts as a security perimeter/small fire break. The Circle is also symbolically significant to me. The property is very overgrown with blackberry and other spiky plants so there is no way to access that part of the property without carving in a road.
I like your idea of putting in some swales below the culverts to help with run off. I was thinking of putting swales inside the loops to help irragate, but water is fairly abundant here in Washington.
9 years ago
In a month, excavators/dozers are coming to put in some forest service/access roads around the perimeter of my property.

Please review the drainage design below and let me know if you have any recommendations or concerns. I have been working on this design and flagging out the area for the last 4 months. I am fairly handy, but road building is outside my area of expertise. My main concern is drainage. These will only be seeded dirt roads, with light seasonal vehicle traffic.

Location: Western WA
Size: 10 acres (1350 ft x 335 ft)
Terrain: Fairly dense forested land
Soil: Loamy with some clay
Annual Rainfall: 49"
Hardiness Zone: 8a
Contours: 10ft Intervals
Elevation: 950 FT
Highest Point: Plateau w/ buildings is the highest point, topography slopes downward on both the West and East sides.
Slope: West slope = approx 6-8%, East slope = approx 10-24%
Pond: Currently the pond does not exist. (Future project)




9 years ago
I may rent a large wood chipper for tree branches. If I carefully chip the blackberry bushes into a pile of chips, do you think it will be likely to re-sprout? Could I use the blackberry chips to mulch a logging road? If they start to sprout, I could mow the road fairly easily.
9 years ago
How did pioneers build picnic table legs before the invention of pressure treated lumber? How long did the legs last? We will find out!

I recently built this picnic table out of scrap wood from my wood bin. I chose not to use pressure treated wood for the legs, because of the environmental impacts. I realize that the legs will eventually rot, but figure I can always just unbolt them and bolt new ones on. I am just wondering approximately how long they will last with the Pacific Northwest Rain and humidity? Is there anything I can do to extend the longevity of them. Deck sealer? Concrete Pavers under them? A wax dip?

Also reviewing:
https://permies.com/t/24462/timber/recipes-treating-wood
https://permies.com/t/46887/natural-building/building-deck-responsibly
10 years ago
What is the best way to get rid of Wild Himalayan Blackberry Brambles? & dealing with the leftover biomass.


Anyone not living in the Pacific Northwest is probably wondering why anyone would want to get rid of a great edible like black berries......For those of us living in the Pacific Northwest, you know that Black berry bushes grow rampant like "The Blob" and can easily engulf cars, houses, and entire hillsides. I have a wooded 10 acres that has large impenetrable areas fortified by black berry bushes. I am looking for the best way to clear some of these areas to grow other things. Some of my concerns are listed below:

1. Chop and Drop will just propagate more of this prolific primocane.
2. Hauling it away may be quite expensive.
3. Making burn piles may quite labor intensive and risky.
4. No property fencing for goats
5. Vines can be up to 1" thick, and plants can be 8ft tall.
6. Working with thorns? maybe welding gloves?
7. Heavy Machinery is OK, but what to do with the biomass
8. Of course NO chemicals
9. Hot composting it could be labor intensive and may re-propogate

I am not talking about clearing a small area my backyard, I am talking about going to war against a very worthy adversary.



(One potential option at http://tallcloverfarm.com/3547/brambles-gone-wild-how-to-remove-blackberries)
10 years ago
With Spring quickly approaching, I want to try some guerrilla gardening.

What are some Masanobu Fukuoka style perennials that I can just plant and forget in Western Washington? (Besides Himalayan Black Berry). I am interested in both scattering true to type seeds, and even planting some small fruit trees. The main thing is that I will not be able to care for these plants or water them, so they must be resilient in our climate. Since nobody waters our forests, I know this is possible.

I want to plant edibles and harvest them later with little to no maintenance. Fortunately we have a fairly wet climate.


10 years ago