G Fischer

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since Jan 09, 2014
Sullivan, MO
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Recent posts by G Fischer

William: That's kind of where I got it. BUT, vehicles usually have unburned fuels/fumes (inefficient as they are), where these guys (RMHs) don't have much except like Cindy says.

Cindy: Just wanted to try an all burn/no exhaust. Say, for an apartment that you couldn't have a vertical or horizontal stack drilled exhaust hole into the wall.
If a way to really have no exhaust. But, I do very well understand that at low draw/ending burns you wouldn't have the great draw to pull the exhaust back in
any more, and would have to figure out that stage or you would still need an exhaust vent.

I was just trying to see how feasible it would be, or even worthwhile enough, trying it. Will continue to mess with the idea. Makes the world go round. (Ha ha)

I am sure someday, in the not so far future, wood burners will get there.
Look how close RMH's come to it, now. ; )

6 years ago

Don't have an emissions tester to check out everything happening with the burn. Mentioned to Matt at Walker Stoves.

Just came back with the pipes, off the horizontal runs, back to intake. Mix of fresh and exhaust (mostly fresh, of course)
Shows no apparent side affects yet. But, I am looking for more investigation, as I continue with it.

Just wanted to see how the left over low emissions effected the total burn, if someone had a tester. Dirtier burn?

Can't beat recirculating the emissions for environmental effect. (I think, so far?)

Anyone try? Tested?
6 years ago
Will do "Direct" pic links next time. Thanks.

And Thanks, Burra, for pulling them up correctly.
I listed the post on Newbie Greeting in Rocket Stoves with the specs
to my system, if anyone could help me figure out any possible problem
spots, we'd really appreciate it.

I plan on trying many different variations this spring, to find a favorite
style or best/steady running.

Thanks, Guy
6 years ago
Thanks for replies. Nice to meet you both.

My system starts all brick, like so many seen, and is 4.5" dia. I then
have a 6" steel riser, 11 3/4 tin insulating cover, with vermiculite/slip
insulation, a 40" high propane bell with removable top that is lipped
and sealed with fiberglass rope

(Yes, I smoke checked the top for leakage. Don't see minute leakage,
through the rope fibers at this seal, as a big deal on a down draft system this low on flow.)

Thanks for any future input!

Here are pics on my general combustion area:

6 years ago
Gave up on trying to find help "without a credit card".

using the 9" high feeder tube as a preheater and smoke catch for "ANY" back feed, as I have
sealed it shut all the way around. I went to a 2 inch high block off the base to hold coals and
feed horizontally = Absolute steady flow, No smoke, and twice the heat on top now.

I could never get my horizontal flowing enough without a vertical stack. That's also gone and hard
to touch the horizontal exhaust. I haven't cobbed all of the thermal engine or any of the exhaust
until I was sure I had good heat and flow. Will be adding the foot-foot and a half cobbing all around

About as easy to feed as the vertical, but took away half the guessing.

Let alone wasting all that money on swapping different tin and pipe sizes, to figure out the smoke back!
I am a steel worker, scrounging for every hour pay I can get, and needing every dime I can muster, in
this greedy corrupt time, to just keep shelling out money aimlessly, on guess work.

Hope this helps a bunch looking for help having had to aimlessly guess like I did.

Need help? I'll give you all I can and sites I found. I won't leave you hanging, either.
AND "No Credit Card First. FREE or return a favor.

Happy New Year!
6 years ago
Hi all. I am on my 4th attempt on making a heater.

I have gone through lots of searching and hearsays all over the net.

1st through 3rd attempts:

A 28" high system with 4" feed, 4" burn, 4" delivery (all brick) 4" riser (steel pipe); then 8" insulating pipe filled with
vermiculite between, 3" top gap (riser to 14" propane tank (cut in half, with removable 3" lid sealed with fiberglass rope))
8" circular tinning chopped up for larger exit to 6" tinning (runs out for 1", then 2 90's, into a T for clean out, then 2 90's
and outside(horizontally). Bad smoke back turned the t into a vertical chimney (less smoke back)

Changed 4" riser to 6" and about 1 1/2" from from top of tank. Better, but still not just burning tips (lots of coals)

More reading& researching small revamp... still not good

Sat down seriously for the 4th and got out the welder and grinders, as well as put a serious thinking cap on. So...

Now I have a J tube of : feeder 4.5", delivery 4.5", riser 5.5" (steel tube) , 12" insulating tube (with light slip/ vermiculite mix)
Cut half a hole in, now, 40" high tank (welded other half of tank back on) for exhaust. Calculated the area of the 12" pipe to the
14" barrel, subtracted, to get back to the area of the 6" riser pipe (read to go a little heavier. 12.5" would have been more exact)
and the riser to top gap is now 1 1/8".
Same exhaust.
Still not getting enough pull/flow to stop occasional smoke back. And now that I have gone tall for flow, the top of tank doesn't
get the heat it use to, which probably means I will have to cut it back down to about 30-32" to get the heat back?

Just not the fast and furious I am looking for to take the vertical stack off and go to the original horizontal.

I know I have to be close. I have never been afraid of doing my homework and constantly searching out on ALL my projects! : )

When I get this my next is surveying the different temperature ranges around it for heating hot water and a mini steam (low
pressure 50-70 psi) generator.

Would really appreciate the fine tuning help.

MUCH APPRECIATE all the articles and inputs from PERMIES!!! Happy New Year!! I really hope it is better than the last. : )
6 years ago