Casey Scogin

Just pinging my two questions above. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

So I found a tree service locally that has a huge yard full of old wood. They list ash, maple, aspen, elm, fruitwoods, and honey locust in big rounds and trunks. I am assuming honey locust is the only one I don't want on this list because it is allelopathic. Is this correct?

Also, does anyone know how long aspens and cottonwood have to dry before they will no longer send out suckers or roots?

Winters - Thanks, I think that I will start looking for several different types of wood.

Mike - Now I am worried about the wood resprouting. The cottonwood I can get is definitely dry, but I cut down a couple of aspens last month and was planning on using these in the beds as well. Is two or three months outside in the snow long enough to kill the wood so it won't resprout. Aspens are terrible about sending suckers all over the yard and that is one tree I am trying to eliminate in my yard.

Algernon and Craig,

Thanks for the info. I found a tree removal company here in Denver that will drop off free truckloads of cottonwood. I will get them to drop off a load so I can let it sit for the next month or two to dry out.

Hello everyone.

I am new to just about all of the Permies stuff and have my first question about hugelkultur. Does it make a difference if the wood I am burying is dry like firewood or fresh cut?

Background info:

I live in suburbia just north of Denver. My wife and I are working on a permaculture design to convert our 2200 sq ft backyard into a growing paradise. Once I get my design and plant list together I will be posting it up for advice before I begin installation. We are planning two hugel beds that will be 4'x25' and run north south. These will be on contour and will be buried beds with the wood starting 3' below ground level and extending 1.5' above. I am trying to do tons of planning and verification before we begin in March so I don't end up wasting time and money. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Casey

Hey Ann, I took the class from a guy here in Denver that was an army medic and then a SWAT medic and gives these classes at a couple local gun stores. It was mostly oriented around gunshot wounds, but a bleeding hole is a bleeding hole no matter how you got it.
Here is the military website that has the info on TCCC. http://www.health.mil/Education_And_Training/TCCC.aspx

These guys are in Utah and offer their TEMs 1 course that looks the same. http://www.strategictacticalgroup.com/train_schedule.html

Here is another one. Emergency Life Saver course. I would verify this one uses TCCC techniques firth though. http://ctiastore.combat-terror.com//index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=191

Look around your local shooting ranges or gun stores to find others.

R Scott wrote:I was serious about the combat medic part, and should have included training. The Boston marathon pictures? Those were less gruesome than PTO injuries I have seen. You might not agree with war (I don't) but you need to be able to function when you see that level of trauma.

Rob is right that problems happen when you are too close to your edge physically or mentally--you just don't have the reserve capacity to deal with the unexpected.

I absolutely agree. I believe a good TCCC class is worth it's weight in gold. Tactical Combat Casualty Care is what our military learns for in the field injuries. A good TCCC first aid kit is about the size of a small water bottle and will help with many life threatening injuries. Clotting gauze in case of a deep cut, chest seals for a lung puncture, trauma shears to cut stuff away, CAT tourniquet for arterial bleeding, nasal airway tube, and some bandages. I have several types but like the Dark Angel Medical kit the best. I took the class in case of injury while hunting but now my wife and I carry a kit with us everywhere we go and keep another in each car.