Mat Goodman

Am I wrong or are there extremely few actual implementations of seasonal heat storage systems out there, in private houses?

I'm guessing this is because different houses have different requirements and different conditions (climate, size of house, energy leaks, ground quality, heat distribution system, etc). IRL this means that you must do a LOT of research for your specific conditions... meaning you must know how to do this research and also how to match those conditions with a solution. Bascially, you'll have to be both a theoretical physicist and a practical one. When I realized this, I also realized I should give up on finding that perfect solution. And here's the killer; what if you got it wrong? You really over sized it, or it needs more insulation after all, or...
This is very problematic and it is not surprising see very little actually accomplished in this area.

So, I've realized maybe an alternative approach is more fruitful: Instead of aiming for optimal go for adjustable.

If you're doing the "big water tank", then don't dig it down. Instead build an insulated shed around it. It is probably cheaper but, more importantly, you can manipulate it all much more easily. You could even build a solar house around it. And when you realize you're not feeding it enough sun, then you can add another solar panel next to it. And one more. You can add or remove insulation. You can change the whole tank much more easily. Or even daisy chain a second one. Again, it'll not be optimal from an energy point but it might just become something that works.

Thinkin' out loud.

Found this a few hours ago and just wanted to share:

http://www.rebelwolf.com/essn.html

I've only had a quick peek and it looks great.

Thank you to its creators and for making it available.

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The Solar Sucker
Heats up the earth by creating a passive airflow through it. Taller side painted dark matte and exposed to sun thus creating an up-draft. This pulls air into the short side. The air, even on the short side, is warmer than the earth so the earth is heated up. Note the tube is completely outside of and under the building, i.e no contact with inside air. This means possibly moldy tubes is not a big deal.
Option to tall side could be a common solar heat collector type thing.
Care should be taken to not let anything into the tube. Water could probably be pumped up easily. If building in steep slope, there could be T-section with pipe to drain easily.
Works best exactly when it should, i.e when sun shines the most. I would guess the reverse effect will take place if air is cooler than ground, i.e the taller side will pull down. Doubt it'd be as effective as heating tho. Regardless, you can add a very simple check valve. Ask me if unclear how.

Variant to "vacuum" cold or humid air from basement or crawl area. New (warmer) air comes in naturally or open door. Nothing to dig down, simply "bring out the vacuum cleaner" and stick it through a window or vent and other end high up.

The Wind Sucker a.k.a the Hot Blow Sucker
Instead of having the sun passively drive the air, the tubes end with special mouth pieces to let the wind drive. Picture shows outlet side. Fin steers so mouth points away from wind, creating a vacuum effect pulling out the contents of the tube. Inlet side is similar but so mouth meets the wind thus pushing the hot air into the tube and ground.
Can be used both for warming up and cooling down.

Note that care should be taken with the Solar Sucker to not expose its ends to wind... or you get:

The Super Sucker
Combine the two concepts.


Mat, the Swede

My very first post on this incredible site!

Optimal angle: http://www.solarpaneltilt.com/#fixed