Jim Grieco

We only have 3 ducks. We already do the kiddie pool and rubber tubs but want to give them a much larger water source to play in. They are fun to watch.

Hello,

We are planning on using a Tractor Supply round water stock tank for our duck pond. It is 8' diameter and I think that's 300 gallons. * I know I could dig one for cheaper but my health would make it difficult.
Since it will be 300 gallons I would like to use some sort of filtration so I do not need to do as many water changes. Any suggestions on  what type of filtration for this size volume of water? I can do either electric or solar. Which ever will do the best job. We will try to use some sort of ground cover around the pond so that they do not track as much grass and dirt as they are now doing with their kiddie pool.
Also, is an 8' diameter 2' high tank big enough to maybe add some fish or plants? If yes what plants would they NOT eat?

Thanks

Hello! We live in northern Arizona, USA. We built an earth bag chicken dome and originally we did a cob finish on the outside. It didn't hold up to the weather (no roof) so we redid with stucco. On the inside we did a cob plaster and finished with a lime and fine sand finish. We have had no problems with the inside at all. We have (3) 2" conduit for ventilation at the bottom, (4) 4" pipes at the top and (3) 1" pipes in the center of our glass bottle windows which are about eye height. Even the hottest days we do not have any problems with moisture on the inside. However, other than the monsoon season it's pretty dry where we live.

Jim

We currently are only using a small plastic kiddie pool for our 3 ducks. Not sure in the end when they are full grown how big of a pool/pond we will go.
So, keep in mind that currently I'm referring to a kiddie pool, any idea what size filter and pump I would need for a duck pool?
How about solar. Has anyone used solar to power pump and filter?

Thanks

We started to have this dug out for a pond and ran into cinder and stopped. We wanted the pond here because the water run off from the land goes right past it. It fills up during a heavy rain during the monsoons but drains out within a day or two. At first it drained overnight but due to the sediment slowly filling it back in over time, it has taken just a little bit longer now.
I also realize that the sides should be more of a gradual slope instead of straight up and down. I do not think I can fix the left side because the trees are right there but I can work on the other three sides if needed. We are also thinking of putting the ducks next to it so they can have a pond.
My research only came up with two options. The clay powder or a liner. We do not want to do pigs.
Anyway ... thoughts?

Thanks

First off, I apologize if this is in the wrong place. I couldn't find an exact category.

We started to have this dug out for a pond and ran into cinder and stopped. We wanted the pond here because the water run off from the land goes right past it. It fills up during a heavy rain during the monsoons but drains out within a day or two. At first it drained overnight but due to the sediment slowly filling it back in over time, it has taken just a little bit longer now.
I also realize that the sides should be more of a gradual slope instead of straight up and down. I do not think I can fix the left side because the trees are right there but I can work on the other three sides if needed. We are also thinking of putting the ducks next to it so they can have a pond.
My research only came up with two options. The clay powder or a liner.
Anyway ... thoughts?

Thanks

Glenn Herbert wrote:Adobe walls? Are you planning this all around the exterior? How thick will they be? If any real thickness, this will be a dead load that requires serious support, and you will definitely need piers at least as much as you show all around. For that matter, piers under an adobe wall just don't make sense to me. I would want at least mostly continuous support, so piers that settle don't cause big cracks.

Or is this an isolated feature inside the house? In that case, nevermind

Yeah it's isolated. I just want some thermal mass for the fire box. I know there is more to it than this and I need to research more. Where the firebox will be I plan on using block as a foundation so it will be one solid support.

Thanks

Peter VanDerWal wrote:

Jim Grieco wrote:Thanks for the suggestions. We are off grid and not involving the county so no code/permits but I still want to build correctly.

Off-grid or not, I don't think you can legally avoid the county, at least not completely.

I don't know what the rules are where you live.  I live south of you in Cochise County.  Here, if you have at least 4 acres, you can file for an exemption to county inspections, but you are still required to get a building permit and submit your design for review, and of course you have to follow the relevant building codes (electrical, plumbing, structure, etc.)  You just don't have to have the inspectors come out and check your work at every stage.

I'd seriously recommend checking with your county's zoning and planning to find out what the requirements are.  If you're required to have a permit and build without one, you can end up in a legal battle with the county and possibly have to tear down the structure.  It's really not worth it to try going guerrilla.

Besides, when they review your plans they will tell you whether or not your posts need concrete, how deep they need to be, etc.  I don't know what it costs where you are, but here a permit is only around $100, well worth the money for the professional building advice if nothing else.

Nope. Not even close up by us. Coconino county may be the worst county in AZ. They hold you to the same standards as if you lived in the city. Majority who live here do not involve the county. Many horror stories from the few who have tried.
I appreciate your advice though. Thank you

Glenn Herbert wrote:You can trade off pier spacing against rim joist strength; I can't give you figures for what will work without knowing complete information on the bending, shear, and deflection capacities of your joists, and the actual dead and live load per square foot of floor and roof plus any extra concentrated loads. 16' (which is what most of your common joists will span) is quite a bit, and I would anticipate a possibility of bouncy floors even if they bear the weight fine.

The joists will be run top to bottom based on the above pic of pier layout. This is why I have the center row of piers so I can support the joists. I do not have the specs on the joists in front of me but the building store had their engineer confirm these joists will work fine. Yes the spanning will be between 14' and 16'.
Other than normal furniture and appliances, the only dead weight will be the adobe wall with a masonary heater box (we like to see the fire) and I plan on building a block foundation specifically for this.