Charles Heller

Interesting - I was just assuming that it was just "heat rising" - but that make more sense.
Thanks again!
Chuck

Troy Rhodes wrote:The bigger the height difference, the -more- effective the thermosyphoning will be. If you can insulate the hot line, so much the better. Really, insulate both lines would be better. It will work without the insulated lines, but better with...

Big lines work better than small lines for low pressure differentials like all thermosyphon systems.


troy

Hmmmmm... okay - Thank you!

Hey - You guys still around?? -- Getting closer to my trip and building the shower. I've decided it's likely I can get the temps. I need to kill the stuff I want to kill, so I'm leaning toward not using an internal heat exchanger of any sort - but, I have another "quick question".. Utilyzing the basic idea in that "Costa Rica design... To what height do you suppose "thermo-syphoning" would be effective? If the collector ended up being on the ground and the tank were on a "tower" 10 or 12 feet above it.... Would that hot water still make it up to the tank???
Thanks!

- Interesting! Thanks!

I found this one too!

http://morebeer.com/products/water-efficient-immersion-wort-chiller-25-38-brass-fittings.html?gclid=COvSkfTKjMMCFeGPMgodDioAUQ

I DO appreciate all your help and thoughts with this - and Glenn's too.
I will definitely let you know what I end up doing and I'll try to post pics....
So - final questions before I continue my investigation via other forums.
I've been picturing a 20 or 30 gallon tank - that sound about right? (I picture a 55 gal. drum smashing through the roof...)
Should I go with plastic or steel? (Does it depend at all upon whether I go with batch or thermo-siphoning?
Coil length and size - any more opinions on that? -- How about as much 3/8" copper as I can cram in there? (- within reason)...?

Thanks once again...
Chuck

Okay..... One thing I just found out from my sister is that the "supply line" is actually a buried pipe (so not the hose laying on the ground I thought) - so that's good. And I have finally grasped the idea that a coil of some sort's main advantage is that it takes away the idea that any of the shower water would be "stagnant" - assuming regular use....

So - it seems like I'm down to size and length of coil (- seems like I could cram more than 10' in most tanks...?) - how large a tank I should put it in - and whether a "bread box" batch heater or a self siphoning collector and storage tank would be most likely to give higher temps...?

??

Thoughts?

Thanks!!

- Sorry, I missed Glenn's posts earlier.....

So - I remain boggled... My first question is "Really??!!" - a 10' 3/8" copper coil would provide enough heat transfer that you could run COLD water through it and take a shower at the same time?! Am I understanding that correctly??

and #2..... It sounds like my idea of putting a hunk of copper in the holding tank aint necessarily that dumb? - - How about a few thousand pennies??...

- still searching and thinking....
-- Here in Minnesota I have a well system - and the water out of the tap is 110 degrees.
-- Might we have legionaires?

Is there any credence to the "copper argument"...?

chuck

Okay.......................................................
1. Flush the hose in AM (toilet - washing machine - garden)
2. Take a tepid shower or two...
3. Drain the system (garden barrel)
4. Refill system.
5. Take a few comfortable evening showers
6. Rinse & Repeat

- right?

So.... Are we now talking just a "regular" batch system? A tank in a glazed enclosure? - No reason for a "collector" - right?

Chuck

Okay................ - approaching suicidal here...
You are either toying with me or you don't appreciate how dense I am.

Please slow your brain down and try to line up "the answers" for me.... ?

It's obvious you are a trove of information but my head's still spinning.

Maybe I'll just end up installing 4 shower bags on a pully system - so we don't have to climb on to the roof to fill them - and run the hoses through the wall.... but it still seems like there has to be a more elegant answer!............. No?...................

I've outlined the basics - cost - simplicity - safety - are all major concerns.

I'm here now... I thought the garden hose "supply" was "no prob." but I re-read what you said about that. So, it would seem the "only" answer to the safety concerns is to ensure that all the water reaches 140-150 degrees before use. (?) Once it reaches that temp, if it's used or drained within 24 hours, we're good - right?

BTW - as far as filling this system goes, I've just been assuming we'd run a hose up to the roof... (?)

A coil system wouldn't solve anything for me since we have to assume the supply is contaminated - right? A coil would just make it that less likely that we'd get it up to temp. to kill the bugs.

This may be a "crazy" proposition but that's how my mind works... Are there reasonably priced "temp. sensitive valves" to be had? What if the hose was connected to a "collector" - say similar to the one in Costa Rica - but that there was no "recirculating"... the water would flow into the collector and not be allowed out till it reached 150 degrees -- am I talking Star Wars?....

Short of bleach or UV - I've got to get it to 150 - right? How do I ensure that?

The only other thing that caught my eye was the post above that talked about how copper kills the bugs........ but.... I'm assuming if that were really true there'd never be a worry - right? Just run the final product through 20 feet of copper pipe...?? It also had me wondering if I could buy a copper plate and toss it in the batch tank...? How about a bunch of those copper bracelets that are supposed to take care of your aches and pains...?

Help!!
thanks..........