Jean-Paul Calderone

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since Jan 04, 2015
Vermont, USA
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Recent posts by Jean-Paul Calderone

Davin Hoyt wrote:

Mike Jay wrote:Ok, so US dollars are backed by the "full faith" of the US government.  Which consists of billions or trillions of dollars worth of assets and a strong incentive to keep the economy and financial systems running.

Trust is needed.

Mike Jay wrote:It sounds like bitcoin is backed by the "decentralized consensus" of the world via their commitment to a virtual currency.  I guess I'm not seeing how there's any actual value to support it.  Other than the value people believe it holds on a given day.  If enough people think it has value, then they trade it and are happy.  But if people suddenly lose faith in it, doesn't the value drops dramatically overnight?

Yes. But the same goes for countrys’ monetary systems. Bitcoin’s USD value is up 1000% since summer of 2017.

And down 83% since 12 months ago.
1 month ago

Davin Hoyt wrote:

Mike Jay wrote:What's the value/backing behind a cryptocurrency?

Decentralized consensus.

Perhaps relevant to the fact that we're on Permies, an answer other than "Decentralized consensus" to Mike's question might be "around 3GW of computing" (no one really knows and it changes over time but this is probably an alright estimate).  Or, since the Bitcoin network can process about 10 transactions per second, we could say "83kWh per transaction" (also the network is "always on" so the energy cost is paid whether anyone is transacting or not).

So, specifically, it's worth considering whether the benefits of Bitcoin outweigh the internalized and externalized costs of maintaining it.

Davin Hoyt wrote:
To me, the most eye-opening statement would be: "Digital real estate." For example: Paul rents "" and "" from a world-wide consensus. I do the same for my website domain. There are a finite amount of domain names that are appropriate to consumers as we progress. Some name like "" has become worth millions of USD.

Hm.  I don't think this comparison is quite right.  Those domain names are rented from centralized authorities (the "registries").  If those centralized authorities decide to take the domain names away, they can.  Bitcoin, on the other hand, allows anyone in the world to participate (as long as they have the computing resources and corresponding power) and requires that 50%+1 of computing power (or ~33% if folks are really clever) agree to any particular transaction.

Also, it's not clear to me how "digital real estate" relates since one bitcoin is one bitcoin and will not practically appreciate (or depreciate) compared to another bitcoin.  Technically, bitcoin *aren't* fungible but this technicality doesn't seem like it would allow the kind of valuation growth you see in popular domain names.

Other problems to watch out for with any "altcoins" (there's another less polite term for them, too) is that since there is so much computing hardware available to run the Bitcoin network and the altcoin networks are so much smaller, it is very easy for an agent to move some hardware from Bitcoin to an altcoin and become 50%+1 all by themselves.  This allows them to do all kinds of nasty things that break the very premise of the coin.
1 month ago
One thing that may be a factor is MUBEC - <>.  It looks like Porter's population is below the mandatory adoption level.  You might want to call the town office and ask for information about this and other zoning concerns.  MUBEC is fairly annoying in a common way for codes - there may be some benefits to following the code but there's a lot of red tape and fees involved in doing so.
2 months ago
If you want the equivalent of 1/3 lb dry feed of your wet feed and your wet feed is 16 parts water and 18 parts feed (by weight) then you need to divide 1/3 lb by 18/34 lb to get 34 / 54 lb - or about 10 oz.

Look at it this way.  If you feed 1/3 lb of your wet feed then you're feeding 1/3 lb dry food times the component of that feed that is dry - 18 lb / (16 lb + 18 lb).  So you've fed 1/3 * 18 / 34 or 18 / 102.  To get this back up to 1/3 you just have to divide by what you multiplied by - 18 / 34.  Thus, 1/3 / 18/34 - which is the same as 1/3 * 34/18.  This simplifies to 34 / 54.

You may want to account for some evaporation during fermentation, depending on your system.  Try weighing the wet feed before and after fermentation to see how much water you've lost and adjust the 16 lbs in the above to whatever the lower water amount is (eg, if you start out with 34 lb of wet feed and it's 32 lb after fermentation, maybe your ratio is 14 parts water and 18 parts feed).
3 months ago
I've used similar models too.  Currently I have one of these - (affiliate link).  I've used it one season only for ~130 birds.  It works pretty well.  I still had a partially filled 5 lb propane tank from last year's processing and didn't manage to empty it this year, either.  The BTU rating is pretty close to the one you linked to - 55k vs 57k.  I found that unless it is absolutely dead still, it is hard to turn these *down* far enough to avoid overheating the water.  I ended up being intentionally messy with scalding, letting birds drip a lot of hot water out onto the ground and periodically adding cold.  I eventually found a cadence where this kept temperature in the desired range (I like 165°F).

I wouldn't put a lot of stock in the "temperature regulator".  Technically, yes, I guess that's what it is.  But really it's just a very coarse control.  If you figure out some trick to being able to set these things at a desired temperature, I'd love to hear about it.  I float a meat thermometer in my pot and check it from time to time to see if I need to adjust what I'm doing.

I've considered using something like the above to bring water up to temperature (because they really are quick) and then switching to something like (affiliate link) which does have electronic temperature control.  But I haven't tried it yet - and I'd want to be sure to have any electric hookup done safely considering all the water involved.

Though, I've also been thinking about building a rocket stove to do this job...
3 months ago
What's your climate like?  This will determine your cooling load (particularly peak demand - how hot does it get and for how long?).  And what are your other resources?  e.g., do you have a cold water stream/river nearby?  A lake that freezes hard in the winter?  etc.
3 months ago

Steve Farmer wrote:I'm being told don't use plastic cups. straws, bottles etc cos they take 10 billion years to break down then I'm told the pipes that come with a 50 year warranty are going to break down in ten years. Can't both be true.

There's quite a bit of difference between a pressurized pipe failing in a way that results in a home flooding and a piece of plastic degrading to the point where you can't tell the difference between it and the surrounding environment.  Mostly what plastic does is break into smaller pieces of plastic - not change chemically.  So, if you think about it for a minute, it seems fairly clear that both statements can actually be true.
4 months ago
Just to contribute a data point: I use a galvanized 5 gallon waterer - maybe it's called a "double wall metal drinker".  I keep it inside the coop with the chickens.  The coop is 8'x16', uninsulated, not-very-tight 1" wood sheathing, and a metal roof and there's 20 layers in there.  In cold weather I put the waterer on top of a cookie tin with a 40 watt light bulb inside.  This keeps the water liquid overnight down to around 0°F (which we had here already this year - which is pretty crazy).  It works even better later in the winter when the bedding has built up around the cookie tin and provides a bit of side insulation so more of the heat goes up into the water.
4 months ago

Brian Allen wrote:I have a 42' x 60' steel shop with 1.5" of closed-cell spray foam insulation on all walls and ceiling. I'd like to build a RMH (probably 8") to heat it and am getting the general design together.

The other option is a dedicated air intake, but that would mean a separate 15 foot run of pipe up the wall.  The RMH burn chamber will be 12 feet from the side of the building (see the attached image) and about 20 feet from the front of the building, so the only real way to get combustion air in (that I'm aware of) is through a vertical pipe, like the chimney.


How tight is your steel shop?  Maybe it's tighter than the average house because it uses steel... Or maybe not so much because it's "just" a shop and not a house?

Your RMH doesn't need to pull air from a door 20' feet away, though.  It will pull the air right next to.  Which will pull the air right next to that.  And so on, until "right next to" is a door or a window or any other crack in the building.  There's your replacement air.

What's your motivation for providing a dedicated air supply for the RMH?
4 months ago

Steve Thorn wrote:I wish I could draw like you, looks good!

I would tend to think that some type of extra irrigation would be a good thing for the raised beds.

Raised beds have the pros of being easy to access and well draining, however being higher up, they also loose that moisture quicker, so having an extra water source would be a great idea in my opinion to limit the amount of manual watering required.

Drainage would largely depend on what's in the bed, right?  How about making it a hugel-raised-bed - fill it most of the way with wood (already on its way to rotting if you want to get results from the bed sooner rather than later) and then cover it up with soil?  Wouldn't this give you a heck of a lot of water retention capabilities?
4 months ago