Keith E Smith

Keith E Smith wrote:
I like the fiskars x27, long splitting axe.

Update, just got their 8 lb maul, works well for the bigger stuff that the 3 pounder struggles with

https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Core-Maul-Inch-751110-1001/dp/B014M9LQGG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa/145-2523835-5081855?ie=UTF8&qid=1539232721&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=fiskars+iso+core+8+lb+maul&psc=1

They make good tools

Turtle

Corey Collier wrote: I need ideas,

Consider it a blessing, a clean slate, sort-of.  Rake up the dead stuff and reseed with a grass blend suited for the climate.  

As for glyphosate toxicity, that has more to do with exposure to the chemical when applying it.  Sure, traces are found in food but you aren't eating the grass, I hope.

Not a big deal IMO.  You might even thank the neighbor

Turtle

John McDoodle wrote: There is always a "right tool" for the job.

Looks like it would do well with dry pine, not so much big hardwood

This thing works well for reducing wood to rocket fuel, real good control of the size you end up with. Made from a 4" brick chisel (from Harbor freight of course). Use a hammer, much safer than the axe on a pivot

Roberto pokachinni wrote:
Bang for the buck though, has to go to Fiskars.

I like the fiskars x27, long splitting axe. Side by side with a heavy maul I can split more with the fiskars. I had my neighbor try it (20 yrs my senior) and it wouldn't do squat for him. I quickly realized it was velocity. I swing for the fences. He swung like a bunt. Force = mass x velocity; swing it fast and it will go thru anything straight grained. Not so much with the knots

Turtle

Too bad the power thing isn't going well, leaks and such. If starting with smallish pieces, I may have something to offer as a working alternative, inspired (sort of) by this http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=1f1_1388333487

I'm still getting the first real working stove together (working as in made outa refractory, metal can't take the heat). I've found that splitting the wood down to small enough pieces seems to be incredibly time consuming. If only I had a way to hold the axe, and make it hit the same point every swing...

Here's what I assembled outa scrap, a tie strap and a cheap axe from Harbor Freight (see, they can be helpful). The vertical stop helps hold the piece whilst keeping fingers away from harm, flat piece stops the blade if it gets that far.

I cut up a skid's worth of flats in about ten minutes; hit it in the right place and the nails just fall away. Swat it with the small sledge if the piece is too thick. Works fairly well, but then again, I don't have much frame of reference; I'm just getting started with all this. Slide hammer thing works well, especially with that big sledge head http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3s5vLJ5IDU but it's slow because you have to reposition it after every slice


Turtle