steve bossie wrote:I've been growing oysters for several years now in the house and outdoors in 5 gal. pails. i have about a doz. 1/4in holes drilled in each bucket. i cover each hole with a piece of duct tape. i do 2 buckets at a time. i add 15c of hardwood pellets to each bucket. then add and mix in 3 3/4 c wheat bran or brown rice flour. i then boil and add 1 gal +2cups water and pour in to my hardwood pellets. cover and let set until the medium is just barely warm or you could let cool over night. next day with a disinfected glove/ arm, mix in about 2 cups of well broken up spawn. take a clean knife and put a slit in each tape covered hole. place in a warm place (70+) for colonization for 3 weeks. i open the lid and check it every other day but leave it to colinate for 1 week unopened. in about 3-4 weeks it should be all white on the surface. i then move it to a cooler dimly lit room and wait for pins to start coming out of the slits and push off the tapes. i then place the buckets in a clean clear plastic sterile tote with 6 2in. holes cut around the middle. stuffed with pillow stuffing. sterilize that too. mist with boiled and cooled water on all surfaces on the inside of the tote but not the mushrooms or the lid where it could drip on the mushrooms. wait for your shrooms to grow. you can usually get 3 flushes out of them by adding a cup of boiled/ cooled water to each bucket, after each flush. cover the holes with new tape with slits and put it back in a warm room again for 2 weeks to rehydrate. then repeat. when they arent giving many mushrooms anymore, you can use the spent spawn several times to inoculate a fresh pellet mix. just use double the spent spawn than you would new spawn. I've added some spent coffee ground instead of wheat bran and it still worked pretty good. i use the warm weather oyster strain otherwise you would need a lot colder temps to trigger fruiting . it doesn't get easier than that. good luck!
David Huang wrote:
David Baillie wrote:
could you do me a favour and tell me what kind of wood stove did you use before the RMH and roughly how old was it? The reason I ask is not to cause trouble just the consumption numbers given by RMH enthusiasts for conventional wood stoves alway seem incredibly high to me based on my own consumption making me wonder what kind of stoves they were. By the way that is an awesome amount of kindling you have stacked there!
Hello David. The woodstove I had before was a Hearthstone Tribute model. This is a small stove rated to heat a space twice as large as what I was heating. It was probably better than the average woodstove in that it is a model with soapstone that certainly did function as a bit of mass to retain heat longer. I bought it new. I don't fully remember how long I was using it. I'll guess roughly 7 years, maybe a bit more. During normal winter days I would burn two full hods of wood plus a couple extra logs. Basically I would shove as much wood into the hod as I could, pick it up with one hand to carry inside and then grab one more decent sized log with my free hand. In order to stay warm I pretty much had to be burning all the time. At night I would fill the firebox as much as possible just before going to bed. If I happened to get up at night for a bathroom run I'd see if it was still burning well enough for me to add more, but otherwise it would go out sometime during the night and generally the house would be cold in the morning. On really cold days when temps got down to the negative degrees Fahrenheit it was sometimes unable to keep the house warm. I roughly figured I was using 2 to 3 cords of wood in a winter. Now I'm certainly down to half that, likely less. Also with the old wood stove I would be using my propane furnace as back up heat having it set to kick on if the temp dropped below 58. It would turn on many nights after the fire burned out. With the RMH I'm using 80% to 90% less propane because it basically never turns on at night.
Joshua Myrvaagnes wrote:HeatSmart or HeatNotSoSmart?
My state offers rebates to incentivize installing ductless heat pumps, air source or ground source. Bit should I?
We have a wall-mounted AC that came with the building (circa 1950??? It has dinosaur prints on it). For heating, we have (trigger warning) baseboard electric.
If we replaced it, what would happen to the cfc's, hcfc's or whatever is kn there? What about production of new hcfcs? Embodied energy of creating the heat pump?
A rocket mass heater is extremely out f the question for here--an apartment bld of 12 units. But I think I could sell the landlord on a heat pump with the argument, "Do you hate money or something? " plus the word "rebate". However, I have trust issues. I saw the trash pickup the other day throw a window ac unit in the compactor (!). It had been left out in the dumpster, probably by someone who didn't know the laws about ac disposal. But how do I know if the dump really handles the hcfc's or whatever resposibly??
So I am looking into the retrofit option...and I am not a techy.
One source says "you have to replace the outdoor tube with a wider tube" and open up the cfc tube in the process. That's above my pay grade.
I've got the "heat the person not the air" memo. But sometimes the air is complaining that it's too cold in here. I guess I need to get her some heat pads and incandescents, but should I also pursue the heat pump thing? It's so tantalizing...
I haven't checked but I assume that a home repair cannot simply turn the ac around and aim the cold end out at the bitter New England winter.
Can the outside tube instead of replacement be fitted with "wings" (like they have on baseboard electric heaters and steam radiators to disperse the heat) that increase its surface area? Would these wings accumulate more heat or just cool the outside tube even more? Is there an easy way to change the order of the components in the unit (I understand the order is what differentiates an ac from a heat pump--exchanger, condenser, evaporator, etc.).
Kathleen Sanderson wrote:I plan to surround my small wood stove (a Vermont Castings Aspen) with bricks on three sides and underneath. The bricks will hold the heat some overnight, but the biggest benefit will be having an extra heat shield. I do want to build a rocket mass heater, but that will entail cutting a big hole in the floor, reinforcing the floor joists, and pouring a footing in the middle of the house. It’s on my list, but near the bottom right now.