Davis Tyler

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since Mar 30, 2015
Southern New Hampshire (Zone 5)
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Recent posts by Davis Tyler

there is a good free calculator here: https://pvwatts.nrel.gov/pvwatts.php

Enter your address and it will find the nearest site with available historical weather data.  Enter different tilt angles (from horizontal) and azimuth angles (0 degrees is north, 180 degrees is south) and it will estimate the yearly production for your system
1 week ago
I love my Speed Queen set!  I was lucky enough to find a barely used set locally.  An older lady got sick of replacing her modern "efficient" washer and dryers every 5 years, and bought a Speed Queen set.  Then she moved to assisted living 2 years later, and her son cleared out the house.

I like the mechanical controls, no computer to break.  When I was shopping for a dishwasher and a kitchen range, I asked for mechanical control models and I was told they don't even make them anymore.  Already I have had the dishwasher repairman out to fix the computer controller and it's only 2 years old.  
2 weeks ago

stephen lowe wrote:
I don't know the source of the extra energy but I sort of perceived it as your body becoming fully geared up in the fat burning department. There is a noticeable spike in mental energy and clarity that for me borders on a mania

I suspect there's a strong evolutionary component here - a hunter-gatherer experiencing a day or two of unsuccessful forays would need to become more alert, focused, and energetic in order to get back out there and kill something.  Many people people who have never tried fasting assume that you will become lethargic as a result...in that were the case, we will have gone extinct long ago.
3 weeks ago

Mike Jay wrote:Woo hoo, more photos!  For folks reading this thread, the picture order changed in the first post.

Hi Davis, it's hard to tell from the photos exactly, but I think this is what I'd do.  Pluck out the trees with red X's and put the trees/bushes in the blue circle.  You could likely extend the blue around the trees to the north depending on how much shade they cast on their own feet.

There might be more trees below and to the right of the camera in attached photo, in which case the blue circle may not come as close to the camera as I drew it...

yes the blue circle is essentially the entire front lawn area, as it currently stands.  I will have to shift it in on the right edge because the trees in Option A area cast shade in that area.  If I clear Option B area, I can plant from the driveway to 2/3 into the lawn area.  The kids can find somewhere else to practice soccer!
3 weeks ago

Bryant RedHawk wrote:Now that I have seen all the photos I have to second Mike Jay's assessment. Good tree folks around where I live tend to top the tall trees first then take them down to the ground.
If you can leave some tallish stumps you could inoculate with mushroom plugs so you would have mushroom crops for several years before the stumps would begin to go away.


I asked the good folks at Field and Forest supply in Wisconsin about this very idea, and they tell me their efforts have had mixed success when inoculating fresh stumps.  The chicken of the woods failed to colonize, while the oysters had partial success.  There is a wide range of wild mushrooms species living in that mulched bed already, so I'm not confident that an introduced fungi would out-compete the natives.
3 weeks ago

Josh Garbo wrote:My property is about the same size and similarly wooded.  I was able to remove most of the non-desirable hardwoods with a wedge, sledge, and chainsaw.  Then I used the slash to make brush piles and the logs for terracing/firewood.  I'd recommend removing the trees away from the house yourself; I can't see your top two pictures at the moment, but I think you only have a few trees near your house?

ugh - are the pictures missing again for everyone?  

As far as trees near my house - my definition of "near" is anything closer than the height of the tree - meaning if I felled it the wrong direction - catastrophe.  There are at least a dozen trees that fit that criteria - 60-70ft red oak trees, plus some large pines.

If I end up having trees removed - what are your thoughts on dealing with the stumps?  
1. leave them to rot (will take a decade+)
2. pull them with an excavator and backfill with loam
3. grind them below grade and let the roots rot
3 weeks ago

Mike Jay wrote:Ok, good.  My nervous antennae were just perking up on your behalf.  

He flagged a couple trees in the backyard that would justify getting a crane to remove, if we chose to do so.  Said those cost $3,000 just to bring the equipment onsite for the day, and they take down as many trees as they can in a day.

I like that he's a one-man operation, and I'm not paying for a fancy truck or TV commercials like the guys with the cranes.
3 weeks ago

Mike Jay wrote:Hmm, "pulling on it with his F350"...  Is he a licensed and insured professional?  The guys around here that charge $500 per tree have a winch system on a big truck to pull with.  I think I'd get a second quote.  Maybe I'm overly nervous though...

I'll get a second quote, but he's legitimate.  I found him after he did $12,000 worth of work on a neighbor's lot, and it ended up looking really good.  You're right he did mention the winch.
3 weeks ago

William Bronson wrote:Ah,  I get it.
I have spent $500.00 on tools for making money.
If I had spent it on my mortgage,it would have helped, a little,  but not not in a satisfying way.

I wonder if there is anything you could buy for a like amount that would let you do it yourself .
I don't know anything about the cost of heavy equipment, but that's the calculation I usually make.
For example, I can buy a lot for less than what a PDC costs,  so that's what I did .

I'm probably thinking too small,  but trimming the trees, growing understory plants and if far enough away from the infrastructure ,  girdling , are the things I  would pursue.

I'm pretty comfortable with a chainsaw once the tree is on the ground, but I've dropped enough trees in the woods to know that I'm out of my league this close to the house.  The tree guy estimated 4,000 lbs for most of them, and he plans on pulling on the hinge cut with his F350 to ensure they drop in a safe zone.
3 weeks ago

William Bronson wrote:I skimmed this thread,  after I saw the price tag.
How much vacant land, how close to the house, could $5000.00 buy?
Got a mortgage?
How much would $5000.00 to the principle lower your monthly bill?

I'm poor, so that seems like a lot of money.
I can't see spending that much on destroying trees to grow others,no matter how useful the new trees might be.

you're not wrong; it IS a lot of money.  Which is why I'm soliciting opinions before I proceed.  Or call off the whole idea.

I looked at buying a lot to build a house 4 years ago  - a raw buildable 2-3 acre lot was selling for $150,000.  $5,000 won't even buy you a parking space around here.  

Yes, I have a mortgage.  I'm of two minds about it - $5,000 wouldn't even put a dent into it - although I have ~30% equity, there is still a couple hundred grand outstanding.  But applying $5000 to the mortgage would surely make it go away faster.  In the same way that a steady rainfall makes a granite rock erode a little faster!
3 weeks ago