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Davis Tyler

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since Mar 30, 2015
Southern New Hampshire (Zone 5)
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Recent posts by Davis Tyler

it's become fairly trendy to brew intentionally sour beers by innoculating the wort with lactobaccillus.  It feeds on the sugars from the grain (malted barley and/or wheat).  I have had success with a single capsule of Swanson lacto probiotics to get the culture started.  

https://byo.com/article/brewing-with-lactobacillus/
don't know what your budget is for this, but looks like there are UV santizers available in the $500 range
https://www.familypoolfun.com/shop/alternative-sanitizers-66/solaxx-nuvo-uv-pool-sterilization-system/cin-uv1500a

You could get a big honkin' pump to go with it so water recirculates fast enough to make chlorine unnecessary
1 week ago

Purity Lopez wrote:I just have a salt filter system with a UV light.  Works great here in the desert.



The OP wants to eliminate chlorine, but saltwater pools still use chlorine; they simply use electrolysis to produce it, rather than adding chlorine directly:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salt_water_chlorination

"Health concerns
Research has shown that because saltwater pools still use chlorine sanitization, they generate the same disinfection byproducts (DBPs) that are present in traditional pools.[6] Of highest concern are haloketones and trihalomethanes (THMs) of those the predominant form being bromoform.[6] Very high levels of bromoform - up to 1.3 mg / liter or 13 times the guideline values of World Health Organization - have been found in some public saltwater swimming pools.[6][7]"
1 week ago

Cindy Haskin wrote:



the easiest way I've found to add magnesium to my diet is to make "mineral water" with Epsom salts.  My well water is naturally low in magnesium, and I found a calculator online to tell me how much Epsom salts I need to add to reach 50ppm.  It tastes delicious!



I've looked for ways to increase magnesium intake. What I've read all says that forms of "by mouth" don't normally get absorbed in sufficient quantity to be worth a plug nickel! I haven't tried any of the magnesium oil skin products; I think a good old fashioned bath soak (or foot soak if the tub is a problem) works just fine. I like the way my skin is extra soft when I get out of the bath after soaking in epsom salts.

Please post a link to this calculator you use. Do you need to know where your levels are at to begin with? I don't drink tap. In my area the tap water tastes awful. I've found a good-tasting water at a local water store that has some awesome filtration. They have a jar of water that has what they say is the crap filtered out of their water. I'm not naïve enough to accept that at face value, because marketing happens. But the water tastes the best in this area, so I have to accept that their marketing tool could in fact be true!

I regularly add azomite to my growing beds to boost the available micro-nutrients, perhaps once each year. I grow now in raised beds because my back won't allow me to get to ground level up and down and up and down... Are there any other nutrients you might recommend I add?

This is a great thread. I've long known that what you put into your growing soil you will also get out of it. The old adage "you reap what you sow" has never been truer!!



yes, you need to know what you're starting with.  I used Ward Labs to test my water when I moved to this house: https://www.wardlab.com/services/water-analysis/

I have good-tasting well water, so I start with that, then add minerals.  If your tap water tastes bad, it could be for a range of reasons.  If you're buying water from the store, you can send a sample of that to Ward Labs

I'm not sure where the idea came from, that magnesium is not absorbed in drinking water.  It most definitely is.  There have been studies comparing areas with different naturally-occurring magnesium levels in drinking water, and estimate that fortifying low-magnesium areas could prevent 4.5 million strokes and heart attack deaths every year: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0306987713004763#:~:text=Universal%20drinking%20water%20and%20beverages,stroke%20deaths%20per%20year%2C%20worldwide.

Here is the calculator I use.  It's an Excel spreadsheet.  Punch in your test results from Ward Labs, then select your target water profile, and it will tell you how much of each salt/mineral to add to reach that target
https://khymos.org/2012/01/04/mineral-waters-a-la-carte/





3 weeks ago

Kevin David wrote:

Bryant RedHawk wrote:

Christopher Shepherd wrote:I believe the nutrition is much better growing with the proper biology, but how do I prove it.  I see the health benefits in people that have always grown their own food.  Do you know or have a place to actually test for micronutrients?  Is there a lab that might be cost effective?  Every time I try to explain this to people I get funny looks.  I would like to take a store bought tomato and a home grown one and actually see the results of why one has taste and the other doesn't.  I would also like to test our old line of corn.  



You should be able to find a Laboratory that does organic tests, those outfits would be able to do the testing for nutrient content and quantities. A google search for "Organic testing laboratories" or some similar wording should bring them up.

Redhawk



Has anyone done a test like this? I’m trying to find some evidence—whether it be scientific literature, or a post on permies—that someone has managed to increase the micronutrient content of their food. In particular, I’m interested in increased levels of magnesium.



the easiest way I've found to add magnesium to my diet is to make "mineral water" with Epsom salts.  My well water is naturally low in magnesium, and I found a calculator online to tell me how much Epsom salts I need to add to reach 50ppm.  It tastes delicious!
3 weeks ago

Bryant RedHawk wrote:hau S. Lowe, yes indeed systems such as you describe are getting to where they can get flavonoids into their crops. And there are easy ways to tell that bacteria and fungi are present in their system.

If there are worms present in any hydroponic system then there are bacteria and fungi. We know this because worms go where the food is and they eat bacteria and fungi.

There are several companies that have developed a system for hydroponics that gives bacteria and fungi places to live and that means the organisms primary to plants being able to take up nutrients in the proper form are present and working.
The hydro farms that are using these companies systems are producing better tasting foods and they also last longer on the shelves in the produce department.

Redhawk



this is interesting to hear - can you point me to an example of a company with a hydroponic system like that?  I use an aeroponic tower for growing greens during our long winter, but I'm always looking for ways to add some active biology to an otherwise chemical-only system
3 weeks ago

Bryant RedHawk wrote:Urine is Urea, not the best thing in the world for microorganisms since fresh it has anti fungal/ anti bacterial properties which means the urine will kill off the bacteria and fungi you are trying to propagate in quantity.

Redhawk



This is the first I've heard of urea in urine having detrimental effects on soil biology.  I've used undiluted urine on my vegetable garden with only positive results.

This article is discussing urine from grazing animals, but indicates that it INCREASED soil micro-organism functions, as measured by their CO2 respiration: http://www.soilhealth.com/research/microbes-urea/#:~:text=As%20expected%2C%20soil%20pH%2C%20availability,carbon%20available%20in%20the%20soil.
1 month ago
where are you guys finding ethanol-free gas for $4 a gallon?!

around here they want $23.25 per gallon for ethanol-free gasoline: https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=trufuel

I would gladly pay $4 to avoid cleaning carburetors, but $23.25 is absurd
8 months ago
If you're patient enough, you could let time do the work for you.  In our climate, a pile of leaves becomes crumbly "leaf mould" in about 2 years without intervention.  I use a bin which is just an encircled hog panel.  It's about 2 cubic yards.

What volume/scale are you thinking of?  Tens of suburban leaf bags, or cubic yards?

If gas engines are precluded, I can't imagine any human-powered shredding being practical, unless you're a glutton for repetitive manual labor.

9 months ago

s. lowe wrote:I'm a big fan of sea-crop, and shipping is free on single gallons direct from the manufacturer, sea-crop.com.

Its not as convenient as dry salt but its incredibly effective in my experience. I use it at 2-2.5 ml per gallon and usually spread it around the garden a couple times a year. Usually I just add it with compost tea so I don't add another time that I'm feeding liquid stuff



ah, I remember hearing about SeaCrop before.  I'm surprised that it would be cheaper than shipping solids only - water weight is expensive to truck long distances.  The label says it's 20% solids by volume, so 80% water.  So a $59 gallon bottle gets you ~2lbs of minerals?

"SEA-CROP® is a concentrate that contains all of the wonderful goodness of seawater in concentrated form but with the sodium chloride 95% reduced."

Is this an advantage over Sea-90, which does NOT have reduced sodium?
10 months ago