Ben House

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since Dec 27, 2015
Ben likes ...
forest garden hunting woodworking
I'm a follower of Jesus Christ, a Carpenter, Blacksmith, Ham Radio Extra, Tube Audio Amplifier Builder.

I've been married over 10 years, and my wife and I have four sons.

I like gardening, and raising livestock, though right now its mostly just the chickens, currently I am developing my own breed of chicken.

East Tennessee
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Recent posts by Ben House

I generally eat my old chickens, but I too have an old hen that will be here until she dies of old age. She survived a possum attack and now makes her way around the coop with only one of her eyes. I believe she has earned her retirement.
14 hours ago

John C Daley wrote:Ben, what does this mean please?

where the furring is


Aso, we dont use gauge as a measure of thickness much nowadays, do you know the mm size?

Found it!!
25g = .531 mm
26g = .455 mm
29g = .343 mm



I prefer to install metal onto 2"x4" (1.5"x3.5") furring, that is fastened either to the rafters, or on top of sheathing if the client so chooses. I find that installing metal directly onto sheathing (OSB or plywood), does not hold good. The screws will tend to back out of the thin sheeting easier than a 2x4. I have had to re-screw roofs that were fastened only into OSB.

Also it goes without saying that a vapor barrier is needed to help with the metal sweating, and that is even with the insulation in the attic!

16 hours ago
That doesn't sound much different than what I install on a regular basis. The metal here is usually 26 or 29 gauge, 26 being the thicker of the two. I usually install on a 2 foot span, but the manufacturer determines the span of their product and currently the manufacturer I use will allow a span of up to 3 feet.

I usually tell people to step in the flats and not on the ridges, but it will support person of lighter weight on the ridges between the furring. I can (and have) dented the ridges while wearing tools, probably around 270 pounds tools and all. So I tend to walk on the screw line where the furring is and only then in the flats.

The metal I install has a 40 year warranty on the paint coat, and who knows how long the metal would last. I like it.
I am living in East Tennessee, but years ago I lived near Fayetteville Tn (middle TN). In most counties outside of big cities here in Tennessee you DO NOT need a building permit or inspection for the structure. You only need the septic inspection and the electrical inspection for the building. I would be looking for a county that is rural and doesn't have the gestapo inspectors.

That being said, I am a Carpenter and I build houses all over East Tennessee, North Georgia, and North Carolina (sometimes). I build mostly for prepper/homesteader types and in the counties that I build most of the time there isn't any inspection, or permit. The smaller towns are different if you are inside the city limits, but for instance: I just built a 1400 square foot house inside a small town, there was no inspection on the framing but they wanted you to pay for a permit!
Looks like the Greenbrier we have around here.
4 days ago
I have been running generators since I was little, I currently have a Generac 5000 watt that I keep for running my welder, and for emergencies and jobs. I have a battery bank and solar for the house, but it isn't enough to run my welder.

In my experience all gen sets will slowly vibrate themselves apart, I've had a few of the older RV sets that didn't, but they are usually on rubber pads. I tend to just fix the generators when they go down, the current Generac has been in service for over 5 years. Not continuously, but when we use the thing it runs for 6-8 hours at a time. And heavily loaded, especially when we are building houses off grid.

I try and repair them for as long as possible and then I will list them forsale on craigslist for parts. Somebody always comes to get them!
5 days ago
Several coats of good paint help, also if it is to be a post in a structure with a roof, just being under the roof in the semi dry will curb most rusting.
5 days ago
In my experience resting the affected area and discontinuing whatever exercise caused the injury is the best medicine. Short term relief can be obtained by taking a couple Ibuprofen or an off brand, it will reduce the inflammation but not cure you. I usually eat something high in protein and fat when I am dealing with a muscle or tendon injury. It just seems like it is when I need.

But I'm just a Carpenter, not a doctor.
6 days ago
I don't know about things changing taste. I do however eat whatever I feel like within reason, many times when I work a very hard day in the sun I just feel like drinking a ton of milk. I read that as my body needing protein and the other vitamins and minerals in the milk. Same goes for greens and vegetables, lots of times in the winter all I want is some soup with different kinds of vegetables. I try and curb the sugar impulse while listening to the cravings for foods that are natural.
6 days ago
Rubber or Vinyl roof membrane can be applied over the tar after you scrape as much gravel off as possible and lay down foam or bubble wrap. We use Mylar coated bubble wrap with the metal roofs and I have done at least one former hot mop and gravel roof. The foam acts as a cushion so the rubber or vinyl doesn't get punctured.

Oh and also its much safer (especially the vinyl) for water usage.
1 week ago