Borkur Jonsson

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since Apr 02, 2017
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Reykjavik, Iceland
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Recent posts by Borkur Jonsson

Oh and about the sandpaper. The 300grit could be the dark red stuff on heavy canvas backing and up from there is the type made to be used with water. Its usually a very dark gray in color. Usually used in car body work.
Hope this helps someone
1 month ago
Hi all
Excuse my English. Not my first language
Another blade-smith/blacksmith here. For sharpening I have tried natural stones, abrasive belts (slow), synthetic stones and various diamond solutions.
As people have mentioned all have their place.  Blade steel varies quite allot. Some modern stainless types are incredibly difficult to sharpen and would need very "strong" abrassive surfaces and then some carbon knives (chef knives ...) are much softer and easier to maintain with a few strokes on natural type stones.
The method of stroke on natural stones also contributes to how much you deform them over time. I have some old ax stones that are concave on both sides and thus useless for my chef knives. I use water only on my stones. I reshape the natural ones occasionally with a special flat stone for that.

There is one low cost solution to sharpening very effectively and that is using sandpaper and water.  
1. Get an extremely flat surface (piece of glass, stone, marble, tile...) and on a table put a towel under it.
2. Put water on glass and then your sheet of sandpaper on top. Then water on top and then you can start. The water "glues" the paper to the glass.
3. Depending on the blade you could start with 300grit and move up from there..400, 600,800,1000, and then jump to 1600 or 2000 for a final super fine edge.
The paper always needs to be whet when the strokes are taken.
The angle you hold the blade to the paper needs to be consistent. This takes some practice of course. Some people find it useful to fit a kind of roller jig onto the blade to keep same angle thru out.
1 month ago
Hi there
I just wanted to share this link with great pictures of timber framing styles from Norway.
This might very well be old news to most of you but Im exited so I will just post this anyway
https://oalannblog.co/tag/stavbygg/
They call it "stavbygg" wich  roughly means post or "post build". The structures made with this method are called grindbygg which means "frame build" since its based on making frames of posts and joist beams and then adding the roof structure as separate piece or rafters directly to frames. You can see both versions in there.
These naming conventions are a bit tricky and I might be getting it wrong. Any native speaking Norwegians on permies please correct me.
P.S Im Icelandic so not a native speaker of Norwegian although we can understand the gist of things being of same cultural heritage;)
In this link you see that the tie beams are connected to posts with a kind of lock which is quite a cool and elegant way  to get good strength in the whole structure. Is this method perhaps called a "tressle frame" in english?
The image noted with "stav-bete og svil" is the lock I am referring to. Lots of pictures of the build and other versions.
I found this when researching simple timber frame methods for a project Im working on based on the Icelandic turf houses. I have lots of experience in building the turf, turf block(klambra) and stone walls but the wood frame inside is what I want to solve in a new way.
P.S heres a nice article posted by Mitchell Fotheringham  I found on turf building in Iceland in english for those interested:
http://archnetwork.org/basics-of-turf/
And just now I found this blog of Tara and Tyler that actually built their house with this method of framing and there is loads of information there on actual permie projects.  Very cool project:
http://journal.goingslowly.com/2013/04/timber-framing-at-going-slowly-hq
And the specialist:
http://peterhenrikson.com/

I hope this interests some of you as it does me.
enjoy!