Eric Rothoff wrote:I am wondering if anyone compared thermal verses electric solar. I read a few articles claiming electric is now better(cheaper.) I heat with hot water, and I can build a thermal solar system compared to buying the panels and building an electric system. Either way I would be installing and assembling the system. What are peoples recent experiences?
Thomas, I still remember when I transferred over the same 12 volt panels from my trace 60 amp PWM charge controller to an Outback 60amp MPPT 18 years ago; it was a transformation. You will see, its not so much the gains you get on good days its how it can still pull watts from the panels on the crummy days, earlier in the day and later into the evening. That unit is still doing work to this day on the garage system.thomas rubino wrote:I still need to install inline fuses, but for now, my new system is up and running!
The Victron app loaded easily on my phone( after Liz showed me how)
Unfortunately, the Bluetooth range is limited, so I will have to enter the barn to monitor battery condition.
It is really cool to see live input from the solar panels.
You can bet that I will be out in the barn at dusk this evening to see when I lose charging and again at daybreak tomorrow to see how early the charging starts!
thomas rubino wrote:Hi all;
I bought four 150-watt 12V panels to run my 12V chest freezers. https://permies.com/t/216684/newest-volt-deep-freezer
For the last 5 years, they have been leaning against the wall in my shop.
Today they are in the sun for the first time!
I didn't have time to finish the wiring to the new MPPT charge control today, but I've got 77 open circuit volts at the wires!
I wired the panels in series, increasing the voltage output to a working level of 48 volts, but the amperage output remains at 8.2 amps.
My new Victron MPPT charge control will use that 48 volts to charge my 12-volt battery bank.
I use two six-volt deep-cycle batteries to run my two 12-volt chest freezers.
I have been charging them with a trickle charger that is plugged into our house's power system.
I finally decided it was time to step up my game and give them their own power system.
Tomorrow I will finish the hookup and disconnect the trickle charger for good.
I remember being fascinated by the Jean Pain story and the idea of the large biomass pile. The video actually lays out pretty well the problems you run into. Some of the issues i found that kept me from going for it:Ben Mosley wrote:I saw this video and got inspiration from it. Unfortunately, I am to old and broken to persue it. I believe that this could be a viable option for those in this community. I think this should be spread, especially in areas where homesteaders are building communities. This could be scaled up, if the community can come together and work together. Maybe I'm just an old fool.
Rico Loma wrote:Much obliged David, my Luddite tendencies are not helpful at times like these, and you've saved me from myself. Charging tool batteries is my main focus, but i will attempt to charge a second 12v battery also. My small charger is rated for 120 to 240 volts and draws 35 watts, I used that yesterday for a one hour test run.
However I could charge with the DC output if that is copacetic. Will both methods be safe for the Ecoflow, or should I stay with using AC output for this?
Rico Loma wrote:Solar generator ads pop up more often these days,with big ideas and a few promises. I hesitate , not sure if Ecoflow River3 units are a good idea for projects far from our home. A kind fellow I know was determined to give me Ecoflow set up w 45w folding travel panel, and after a moment I relented
DC power output is via USB and usbC, also theres an automotive cigar lighter socket. 2 AC outlets are provided.
The input can be with solar or 120v cable for indoor charging. I include some specs below. Not a champion in its field by any means, but the portability is a fantastic feature. This could be great for some projects far afield, without taking my heavy generator. Paltry battery storage on this River3 though, and i need a plan to have more . Advice from anyone will be welcomed.
One reputable buddy advised me to use a 100w panel as a minimal upgrade, and he believes the River has charge controller/ inverter built in. So please folks,any opinions to the contrary in Permie land? And one more query: should I charge a 12v battery or similar from the River during sunny hours ? I have a cable for this already, to connect to my Using the unit for a remote project, far from the mudding crowd, I need it for mostly 18v tool batteries and occasional AC necessities . As it stands, I can't work on my forest project more than 3 hours on a cloudy day before my integrated battery gets very sad
Much obliged for any advice, on the input and output
Rico
We're in central Texas latitude 30. The roof is pitched at 18° so the modules could be pitched up some for optimum performance although our primary energy need is during the summer and shoulder seasons. I'd much prefer to do a ground mount array but it would require some pretty significant clearing to create a good location. I haven used bifacials before. That's good to know about their limited benefit on roof mounted systems. Dual mppt sounds great. It seems like I got my current system right on the cusp of a great advancement in consumer solar equipment. My 5-6 year old solar modules, charger controller, combiner box and flooded lead acid battery bank feel extremely antiquated.
torqued on ones did not pass inspection here (ontario) but that is up to interpretation the theory was that a fine braided cable being torqued in could come loose or not engage the whole cable. Try to find the copper ones if possible. digikey has them, grainger will order them in. I use the bigger ones for 4/00 cables going into the Lux 10 and 12K inverters.Crinstam Camp wrote:Those are exactly what I was looking for to start with. Why would you prefer crimp on ones over reusable ones?
Crinstam Camp wrote:
James Alun wrote:
You could run 4g for most of the run and crimp a ring connector onto it. For the last couple of inches, take the largest wire that will fit in the charge controller, crimp a ring terminal on to it, bolt them together and cover in heatshrink.
Can you show me a picture of what you mean by a ring connector?
Would wrapping the 10g wire around the 4g end and putting a couple of hose clamps on it work?