David Baillie

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since Jan 07, 2016
Builder, tinkered,  gardener, charcoal gasification enthusiast.
North central Ontario
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Recent posts by David Baillie

thomas rubino wrote:Ha Ha; I should have waited a day!   Last night our 3-5" storm was a 10-12" storm...

And the panels looked like this today...

Of course tonight another 5-7" is coming...


Ahh Winter        You love it or move south !


We normally suggest a roof rake. Once you have 2 or 3 rows of panels they dont avalanche as well. Canadian link...
https://www.amazon.ca/Garant-LPRR24-Lynx-24-Inch-Non-Assembled/dp/B00EZ1G9GO/ref=asc_df_B00EZ1G9GO/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293002247721&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14130478748129117363&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000656&hvtargid=pla-450132922250&psc=1
3 days ago

Mike Homest wrote:

frank li wrote:Peoples cost and values are generally different. Like a 400$ wood fired boiler. I would estimate 4k$ to start unless you are speaking dhw only, and or diy, even then... unless you are talking about a heat exchanger and controlled circulation, id still be at a loss to buy that for 400 dollars.



The Boiler (brand new) was about 300 US$, it has (iirc) 1200W electrical heating, which I haven't connected, an extra heat exchanger (8 kW), which I haven't used so far. you could attach a solar system to it or some radiator, while the last makes little sense, since the boiler is not really thought to be fired permanently. About 100 US$ for the missing tubes, water/exhaust and so on which I had not onsite already.

I have everything setup on my own. Yes it is not expensive and working like a charm, though it might not be that great in terms of efficiency, it doesn't matter to me. From calculating you get about 50% efficiency in the summer and maybe 75% in the winter, due to room heating. I like that it is very simple, what is not there can simply not break.

+++In addition it needs zero electricity and even without power, I can still take a shower and alike.+++


Mike do you have a link to the boiler or some pics...
Thanks,   David
4 days ago
The renogy inverter you quoted has a standby draw of "less" than 24 watts but probably not much less. That kind of draw will eat a small system alive. For a charge controller find a bigger one to take the whole load. Competing cheaper mppt chargers are not a good idea as 0ne will always be slightly ahead of the other and if they dont talk one array will underperform. If you have the money a name brand there will pay off. If you can manage it using a small inverter for critical loads and your big one switched off except for charging or heavy draw works well for small systems. The morning star works well in that application ; enough for a small fridge devices and lights with a tiny standby draw. https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/suresine/

For what it's worth... cheers,  David
6 days ago

frank li wrote:

Eric Hammond wrote:


Double check the shunts mV rating!!!  You need a specific mV rating for your battery monitor!  The shunt should be stamped.  Double check that it's right with the battery monitor literature. Otherwise I would suspect a bad battery monitor



I think this is more likely than a defective shunt or a defective monitor. The shunts are one of the highest quality and most stable and trouble free parts in the system. True it takes creativity to test a shunt without lab equipment set up to do so or a swap check..... didnt think about that until you said it, never had to test one!


Ive had to swap out two and both times it was the bmk module not the shunt. This is totally Magnum's domain odd you are having that much trouble. I usually get through within 20min or get a call back within an hour...
Power through it...
1 week ago

Mike Homest wrote:

Mike Jay wrote:Sorry about that.  It's pretty standard to have hot and cold water going to cloths washing machines around here.  I didn't even think to mention it.



OK, got it. Here those machines are pretty rare and according to tests some are not even that efficient. Of course you need something cheaper then electricity to heat up the water. Solar fluid tubes systems should be in the summer times optimum, but if you want thermosiphon (w/o pumps/etc) a bit tricky to setup, as the panels need to be below the boiler.


Where abouts are you Mike? I know all front loaders I come across have hot and cold. I generally do a hot wash and cold rinse. Power consumption is usually just shy of 200 WHr. I use a propane hot water tank and a conditioning tank fed off the wood stove. If I time it right the water feeding the propane water heater is almost up to temperature already. In terms of efficiency it depends what you are testing for. The front loaders use more electricity for the same amount of laundry BUT use far less water and remove far more of it in the rinse cycle. If you are heating water to wash and use a dryer the front loader wins hands down. If you are water stressed the front loader also wins. The top load is a simpler machine so should last longer.
Cheers,  David  
1 week ago
Hi gerry so glad that fixed it. peak in on the contact every now and then to see if its carbonizing. If it isn't, all good if carbon builds up do the relay. As to the tank the water is actually in the rubber bladder not the steel tank so it should not jiggle too much. If its not storing enough water drop the tank pressure a few psi at a time until you come to the right balance. You want a good continuous discharge rate not an ebb and flow. There is also adjustment on the pressure switch the big nut does on off pressure the small one does differential between on and off pressure...
Cheers,  David
1 week ago
Gerry, we had a bmk acting that way. it ended up being a faulty unit. We changed all the components. It was 4 years old though so no warranty. Apply a known load to it and see what its amps out reads. I usually have an amp clamp multi meter on the battery wires when I do this. Ours was 40 amps out...  And again trigger the ags on voltage not state of charge. The magnum does better that way. Set its turn on voltage to whatever you choose, set the clock at 3 or 4 minutes to avoid nuisance starts, turn the off voltage all the way up to float to avoid conflicts. Absorb time... While a long absorb time will add more to the batteries it comes at a high cost in fuel usage as the efficiency goes down as they approach full. Its a balancing act between battery health and genny lifespan and fuel usage.
1 week ago
I go on battery voltage alone for the ags settings. We have tried soc triggering but it just never seems to work as well and consistantly as the voltage trigger. Your ags should be your last resort. The smart human in the mix controlling genny time is always a better solution. Just remember to turn it back to auto when done!!! (Most common reason for ags fail)
As to why it misrepresents I dont know.  Battery specs have different absorb settings based on temperature so I'm not sure the compensation range is enough if the settings have not been seasonally adjusted. We generally set bank temp indoors at 20c. If someone is really keen on their system and the batteries are outdoors well teach them how to adjust seasonal values... Batteries are a dark art... they are chemical and alive not electronic.
1 week ago
Tough it out with magnum... Just work through the setup with them to rule out mistakes. I find about 10 or 11 am eastern time mon Tues weds work best. Some basics: Battery size is programmed in correctly? The absorb voltage numbers are equal to those suggested by the manufacturer? Absorb time is right for bank size? You've run a bulk, absorb, float run with the genny. Temp sensors are installed midway down the battery case taped to an inside battery?  I've seen it "thinking" for 24 hours before. I'm not a fan of state of charge... with our climate the cold seems to throw off the state of charge readings. So all winter with lack of absorb time and temperature affecting how well the batteries absorb it goes wonky.  Personal opinions of course...
2 weeks ago
Hi gerry what I think happens is as the pump head rotates it temporarily goes above the required pressure and turns off then the chamber it's on bleeds a bit and it falls below pressure so it has trouble reaching it's set pressure. I found the pressure switch on the shurflo too sensitive and limited which is why I suggested a stand alone full size pressure switch. Like this one   https://www.amazon.ca/Electric-Pressure-Control-Switch-Adjustable/dp/B079QJX8HN/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1548642716&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=pressure+switch&psc=1
Canadian link given only for an example. The nice thing is they will last for 40 years, have a sizable switching mechanism in them and are fully adjustable both on and off pressure and the differential between them. Its rated for ac so again use it only to trigger the dc relay not switch the pump...  all that might be overkill but that is how I solved that very annoying continuous switching as the shurflo reached shut off pressure.
Cheers,  David
2 weeks ago