rick jacobson

An aside to this discussion, I want some of that $150 a cord wood. Here  in maine  we just paid $350 a cord for 5 cords of cut and split firewood. That figgute would surely skeew those numbers

Lexie Smith wrote:I’m in 7 and sweet potatoes have done well in the greenhouse over the summer but peppers have been the stars of the show. I planted a greenhouse variety from Johnny’s and it survived and bore fruit for several households and gifts to friends for 4 years. All 4 plants have steadily declined this winter so I have some seedlings going to replace them with. They have been a Godsend with their high vitamin c levels in keeping my family well these past few years because they have born fruit year round.

Zone 7 b here. I second the pepper growing. I've had hundreds of peppers  off different plantings for up to three years. Picked sweet potatoes year round( not many they take a lot of space ) tomatoes all winter , basil year round, I've got a couple of blueberry bushes that might bear this year I'll see how much earlier than the outside ones. Avocado and banana trees love it in the summer , but not enough to fruit yet.. I grow fig cuttings for at least two years in the green house before they get planted outdoors. I ventilate in summer but very little to no aux heat in winter. I have several hundred gallons of H2O storage for tempering in both heat and cold . Try anything that you desire, at least then you'll know what works.

Anne Miller wrote:How is this year different from last year?

Cooler temps in the greenhouse or less sun?

Trees start budding when the temperatures reach a certain level and/or the is plenty of sunlight.

To wake the tree up try to raise the temperature and get more sunlight by using mirrors.

I don't know much about trees in greenhouses or temperature though when I see a topic in the Zero replies I like to see if I can get other members' interest to try to get them to help.

in

Thanks for the input. My dilemma is if things  were different I can't pinpoint anything . I just repotted   it to see if that helps. It was a real disappointment not to have it even bloom after the previous years  bumper  crop

I

My Mandarin tree is about 6 years old, grown in an unheated greenhouse in central NC.  It failed to bloom at all this year.The tree had about 25 oranges successfully  ripen a year ago December  (2020) . It's about 5 feet tall and multi stemmed. It had a few ripe  fruit the year before. I have not changed my fertilizing or watering regimes at all. The temp of the green house never falls below 35 degrees or so. It has  about 400 gal of H2O in black plastic 40 gal drums to temper temperature swings , and  I operate a small heater when
out side temps are predicted to be 20 degrees or  lower. It remains in the greenhouse year round. How can I wake it up?

I seriously researched driven vs pounder wells when I built my homestead in central Maine  44 years ago. My neighbor was at 170 feet getting about 3 gals a minute out of a rotary drilled well. Anyone with a drilled well within a mile or so was in the 150 - 400 ft depth at under 10 goals per minute  with some as low as less than a gallon a minute. Most pounded wells were under 200 feet and had better than 5 gal per min. I had a pounder do mine  He hit water at 30  feet but went to 90 on his reccomendation.  Ended up with more than 20 gal per minute,( it was as much as he could test for) of beautiful nearly neutral ph  water that is still flowing  with out a hitch today.  Same pump , same setup that was put in over 40 years ago. Your mileage may vary, ask around , and don't be afraid of the "old ways" The  wisdom was that rotary  drills seal the rock and block off smaller streams of water. Pounders shatter the rock  and open it up. My well man said that the hole probably caved in at the 90 foot Mark creating an underground cave that held a tremendous amount of reserve. I had less than 10  feet  of depth. of steel casing installed as they hit ledge rock at about 24"

Carla Burke wrote:I've also seen houses moved, intact. Not cheap, a bit risky, fascinating to watch... but it can be done.  

I wish that was  the rule rather than the exception. I watched with my eight year old eyes as my childhood home ,  taken by eminent domain,  was demolished by a bulldozer , 67 years ago , to make way for Interstate 95 ,

John F Dean wrote:Thought for the day: does your kitchen range have a built in regulator?  I suspect it does.  My Fridgedaire does. This is not to suggest that the tank regulator should be eliminated, but I suspect it may be too restrictive if it is designed to be used by itself.  I picked up my tank regulator on Amazon.

I will check that out . I bought the stove used locally and it was running successfully for the last owner off a much larger tank.Unfortunately ,the local propane dealer is very cold to anyone not supplied by them. Plus their gas is at least double what I am paying without any price structure except current market price.Thanks for the tip

Tereza Okava wrote:In most of South America people run their kitchen stoves on the small propane tanks (like those used in the US for barbecue grills). I have a 5-burner stove with double oven and "afterburner" (for cooking on a wok).
Regulators are only available in "small and cheap"- no bigger diameter I have seen unless you get those huge tanks.
Still, the only time I have had problems with flow is when the burners themselves need a cleanout (needs to be done regularly) or there is some sort of leak in the system. We also replace the regulators and hoses regularly- the hoses for safety purposes and the regulators due to humidity, oxidation, fouling, etc. You're supposed to replace it every year, I think we maybe do it every 3 (and it's overdue, thanks for the reminder).
We DO notice problems with variations in gas quality, especially now amid The Great Supply Chain Problems of 2021 (probably also resulting in crud on regulator/burners), and of course if the pressure isn't what it should be we go and doublecheck the clamps on the hoses, connections, etc. Our piping system goes maybe 6 meters from the tank to the stove, but again, flow/pressure doesn't seem to be a problem.

Thanks for affirming that the set up I am using will work properly given the proper components. From your description and another posters sugestion, I feel I need to check into my Stoves  inner workings and look for an internal regulator. I have a short run, 8 orso feet of 1\2" Blackiron piping , so I'm confident of that part of the  system is adeqate. I do have to heat th e tank with a light bulb when temperatures fall below 2 5 F. Because of the limited volume of the tank.Thanks to all for your help

thomas rubino wrote:Hi Rick;
We run our range , refrigerator and on demand water heater all from our stationary 250 gallon propane tank.
It uses a larger regulator and 3/4" to 1/2" supply lines , so a lot of gas is available.
Have never had a supply issue.

Thanks for your reply. All is well when you  use a large ( 100#  and larger)  tank that takes a different regulator than the small tanks use. I'm running  gas  grille size tanks and am looking for a regulator that will provide more gas than the cheap big box store ones, if there is even such a thing.