Dale Gi

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since Aug 21, 2016
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Recent posts by Dale Gi

I agree with Ken.  We had a swamp cooler for years in Utah, where the humidity is very low.  It worked great, but I would not consider one in an area with high humidity.  They do, after all, rely upon evaporation to work.  Also, you need to change the filters frequently for them to be effective.  At least once a season.  More might be better for efficiency.  I don't know what they use for the filters now (which is also the medium to hold the water for evaporation).  It used to be aspen "threads" in a mat.  I loved it when we put in new ones.  Not only did they cool exceedingly well, but they had a wonderful out-in-the-woods smell.  It felt and smelled like I was camping in the mountains, rather than baking in the desert!

They do make window mounted swamp coolers.  Just make certain you are able to mount them appropriately, and that your landlord will approve.



Regarding the heat question -- I have built a rocket heater that exhausted into an old, inefficient fireplace.  HOWEVER, it was not code and a fire marshal would likely take a hammer to it if you live in an area with building codes.  It would probably void any insurance policy in case of a fire.  And, a landlord would most likely consider it a violation of your contract.  Rocket heaters that have thermal storage (like you suggested) are very heavy.  Even if you could build one, you would need to make certain the structure could support the massive amount of weight in that location.  There are a lot of issues to consider in retrofitting one into a home.  For most people, it would probably be easier to incorporate one into a new design, or massive remodel.  And, it helps to be in a location where there are no building codes (we are fortunate in that regard).
8 years ago
I have two thoughts that come from an off-the-grid cabin we are building in Alaska using natural methods and materials.
  1) The Denaina, a local native tribe used birch bark for shingles.  That's not shakes, but it might be useful information.  The would take 1/2 the diameter of the tree's bark and use it like half-round ceramic roofing tiles, alternating concave and convex.  Birch bark is waterproof (think of birch bark canoes), that's why the tree can be rotten, but the bark holds it's shape.
  2) On our property there was the collapsed remains of a 100-year old house.  Both for recycling purposes, and for preserving the history of the land, we are recycling everything we can.  One of the things we managed to salvage was a large number of cedar shingles.  We brushed them with a wire brush (manual, not electric -- that would have chewed through them) to get the old dirt and moss off (if any).  Then, we coated them with boiled linseed oil, and put them on our roof (where it is not earthen), and on some walls.  The message here is that many of the shingles were still good after about 100 years of exposure to Alaskan winters.

Hope that gives you some ideas...
8 years ago