Barbara Dickinson

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since Oct 28, 2016
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Recent posts by Barbara Dickinson

Yes, Peter, I think the extra space above the heat riser absolutely helped increase the draw. I think it's working as well, if not better than when it was brand new. Too bad I didn't have the forethought to build in the removable lid from the start. The steel plate is 100% better than the original thin top of the 50 gallon barrel, both in terms of heat distribution across the top, and in beauty.
Happy Hallowmas!
8 years ago
Soooo, I kept coming up with this thread when searching for why my mass rocket heater became sluggish, with lots of back burn and smoke...inside the house! Yuck! We'd been heating with the system for 3 winters, with each consecutive winter, the system's performance declined. I first thought my 22'run with a 180° turn about mid run through cob bench was too long. I spent many hours tunneling an additional exit flue through the 2' thick cob walls. That helped, but didn't solve the problem completely.
I figured I must have a CLOG! I can run a chimney brush through all the exhaust tubes, so I know there's no rat nests choking the system. The only remaining area that could be clogged was between the heat rise and the barrel. The only way to get to that was to cut the top of the barrel off (I didn't foresee needing to access that area when building...these constructing new system's...be forewarned)
So, using a reciprocating saw, I cut out the top of the barrel, leaving a 1/2" lip on the rim. It was sooooo packed with black residue, lofty soot! I duct taped a  paint mixing stick to the end of a length of pvc pipe, and pushed all that junk into the first clean out chamber. All cleaned out, I ordered a disc of 1/4" thick steel to be cut from the local metal shop. A nice thick braid of stove rope on the the ledge remaining on top of the barrel, with the steel disc on top, closed the system back up nicely. Now the true test....fired up, the system works better than ever!
So, had I to do it again, I'd plan for a removable barrel top from the beginning (the steel is much more beautiful than the top of a barrel, by the way) and a fresh air intake...that's next on the list. The cob house is so tight, we have to open the wood cupboard door a crack for the fire to get it's full of oxygen.
8 years ago
My advice: buy the land first and live on it however seems best as a longish term temporary situation...for us it was a concerted bus with a woodstove, which is now an excellent guest space and air bnb rental. Get to know your land. Garden, check out the soil, note the wildlife. Find a cob building project to help out on, preferably from start to finish. Visit other cob structures and talk to the builders. Ask them what they wish they would have done differently. Get a couple good books (Becky Bee's Cob Builders Handbook is a good primer). Start collecting materials: rocks, tiles, Windows, doors, glass bottles, lumber.
When you have your site picked out, draw plans. Make a scaled model (plasteline, so you can easily "remodel"). Camp on the site, and plan some more. Dig your foundation trench, put in your rubble and French drains. Rally your volunteer crew, and start building first thing in the spring. Plan for it to take twice as long as you think it will. Both of the 200sq' 2 story cottages we build took two years to build...each. Take the time you need to prepare, gather materials and plan, so that once you start, you can really move forward with the energy of obsession that building a cob house generates.
Embrace how utterly amazing you are!

8 years ago
cob