Roy Edward Long

pollinator
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since Nov 07, 2016
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Sure would have been nice to know there is a 2,000 character limit to this before I wrote a very appended 10,000 word biography... Who can give any kind of a biography in 2,000 characters?
I am from Oregon originally.. Now live North Idaho.. I enjoy gardening.. I guess we are meant to keep it unbelievably simple on this... lol...
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Recent posts by Roy Edward Long

Kid Dynamite wrote:What about having a sealed vessel at the top? Should create vacuum. As vessel drains out the bottom water is drawn in to the top.



This would simply reach a state of equilibrium "a balance of forces" and the water would stop flowing in any direction and simply rest at a static level.  You have to have an imbalance in forces to create motion.  Once the initial energy from gravity is balanced with the force of the vacuum created  you no longer have an energy imbalance to create movement.  At that point the system requires an energy input to again create an imbalance to to maintain motion.  Take a straw in your cup of liquid and hold your finger over the top and pull the straw out.  The fluid remains in the straw, the force of gravity is balanced out by the vacuum and surface tension of the fluid.  The same thing would happen in your idea of a sealed system.
5 days ago
While you can find claims like this on Youtube and other places there is no such thing as perpetual motion.  This is known as "overunity" and it breaks the laws of physics.  You can supply a secondary waterfall lower than the collection pool via a bell siphon but it is beyond the laws of physics to return the water to a higher height  greater that the level of the collection pool.

But you could easily put in an electric water pump and pump the water back up.  Why there are so many overunity claims is beyond me other than trying to get views to make money, but in spite of the number of claims it is quite impossible.
5 days ago
Has anyone tried to re-grow their veggies?

I wanted to try out some of this a few years back and have quite good success with it.
Some of the things I have tried out thus far.

Onions are great for regrowing, you cut off the bottom 3/16ths inch to 1/4 inch of an onion where the roots were and set it just under the soil and water.. Voila a few days later it is putting out roots and growing a stalk.  You cannot regrow an onion bulb this way but you can grow greens and it will go to seed if you allow it to.  I grow out the bottoms of the onions I use in the late winter and plant them out in my garden in early spring.





I also do this with leeks as well. A leek will regrow the stalk and then go to seed if you allow it to.  When you plant a leek it will not go to seed the first year so if you want leek seed buying a leek and regrowing the bottom of it will give you seed the same year you plant it.




Carrots are another good and very easy one to regrow.  Again, you will not get a new carrot growing, but you will get a bushy carrot plant for greens and later seed production.



One of my favorite things on earth.. well beside leek is celery, it goes good in pretty much everything and there are few things I love to much on more than celery.  I have never been successful at growing celery from seed but regrowing from store bought celery has worked well for me.




I have also done this with cabbage and Brussels sprouts as well.  I have read that you can also do this with lettuce though I have yet to try the lettuce out.  Does anyone have any other plants that they have done this with?  I would expand this to more plants.
1 week ago
When we first bought this farm I built a hog pen below the dam by my house as it had a steady stream of water to water the hogs and create a wallow.  When were done raising hogs they had cleared out all plant life and dug everything up amazingly well so I used it as a garden.  That constant water running though was too much and just swamped my garden and killed everything off.  



The next year I dug some ditches and thought I could run the excess  water off and do better... No such luck, the soil was just too wet and again the garden failed.



So year 3 I decided to increase the size of the waterways and raise the planting soil up another foot to 2 feet in some areas.  Then I covered the water ways over with wood planks and then white plastic fence panels and then soil over the fence panels.






These pictures do not show the full extent of it all, I dumped around 30 tons of rotting hay in there and over a period of 3 years about 100 yards of forest humus and soil.  I raised the ground level by up to 3 feet in some areas.

In the end it was well worth the effort, I had a garden that would taw out a couple months earlier than normal due to the water flow allowing me to work the garden earlier.  I had subsurface water for the plants to tap into that was high in nitrogen from the snow melt and from the tens of thousands of catfish in the pond above the garden.  I didn't have to water the garden at all until about mid July with all the water running through below the garden surface.

Year four and beyond I began to grow awesome gardens..








You could do something like I did and raise your growing area up "raised beds to an extent", or you could go with hugelkulture.  Lay down some waste wood and build it up then lay in hay/woodchips and top off with soil.  The wood will soak up the water and hold it in for the plants to use.  Either way should work well for you, just go with what is more affordable to you time/effort wise and with any monetary considerations you may have.  While wet areas are a pain they also have the potential of being a blessing




1 week ago
At my last foster home we built a 20 acre spring fed pond average depth of about 26 feet.  My foster father Cliff stocked it with trout about every 5 years to keep the population up.  I always thought that if we maybe got eggs and placed them a quarter mile up the stream that fed it maybe they could reproduce but we never tried it.  

I do know that fisheries breed trout so I would imagine you could in a small pond as well.  Generally speaking though trout will not reproduce in a pond under normal circumstances.
1 week ago
Here is a pic of the pond I want to put these in, it is a distant picture but it is the only way that I can fit it into a photo as it is about 350 feet long.




Some closer pics...





1 week ago

George Mogil wrote:Hello Everyone!
For anyone who has an outdoor fish pond: how deep is it, would or does a pond aerator do the job, are the fish healthy and edible, do you need a gizmo to prevent freezing in the winter, do you bring the fish inside during winter and how big an aquarium or fish tank do you need, any other questions such as -
does the winter snow melt sustain the pond or do you have to add water manually if the rainfall run off is insufficient?



We have 5 ponds here on our farm..  A 25,000 square foot bass pond, a 4,400 square foot catfish pond, a 2,500 square foot catfish pond and two 1,000 square foot catfish ponds.  We do not use any aeration, no feeding and we allow the ponds to freeze over naturally and they stay frozen for 6 to 7 months out of the year.  The ponds are all 12 to 14 feet deep and manmade clay ponds.

We get an average of about 105 inches of snow a year which enough to fill our ponds many times over.  The water level drops about 2 feet in each pond by fall and then freeze over in October.  By April/May they are still frozen over generally but filled to the top and draining tens of thousand of gallons of water out the overflows everyday.  We have tens of thousands of fish in each pond.  You can literally catch bass as fast as you can cast your line in.  Most of them are only 6 to 12 inches length but there are plenty of them in the 18 to 20 inch range and some in the 26 to 28 inch range.  The catfish are smaller and more numerous but a little pickier at times with catching them, but very tasty fish.



1 week ago
I have been studying raft grown veggies for 4 years now and am ready to jump in so to speak.  I didn't realize that this site had aquaculture in it but now that I do I thought I might post here and get any information or tips that I can from here as well.

I have a 25,000 square foot bass pond that I would like to try and grow raft veggies on.  I have 3 other ponds as well but they are full of catfish and they might eat the roots of the plants so I am going to try out the bass pond to start with.

My first simple design set up this morning utilizing materials that I have mass quantities of so that I don't have to invest any money on this to start. It took me about 15 minutes to do this.  I have yet to rout the holes in the plastic panels and I need to mount the boards on the ends of the logs better but this is basically the idea of this first raft version.

Planting Raft 1.0...




I will place planters into the holes that I rout in the plastic panels and put some rotten hay and then soil into the logs themselves and plant in those.  I am expecting one year to potentially two years of raft use.  When they begin to sit low in the water I will pull them to the shallow end of the pond and set them on the bottom of the pond in the 1 to 2 feet of water and keep them stationary.  Between my eldest son and I we could build about 60 of these with about 30 to 40 hours time invested.  I have hundreds of punky white fir trees which are not good for firewood or milling so I have more than enough wood and I have several thousand feet of these plastic fence panels which I have been taking out as I hate that fencing with a passion.

Any thoughts or advice?
1 week ago
Some of the issue could be gut flora, we all have different mixes and those who take antibiotics have greatly reduced and modified gut flora.

I have always eaten loads of unwashed raw vegetables straight from the garden and unwashed wild plants from my yard and as I travel around the farm and forests. I have also drank unpasteurized milk and untreated water all my life.  As a result I have a rather diverse gut flora, I can drink the water in Mexico, north Africa and the middle east with no issues.  I eat most of my mushrooms raw without cooking them at all and I have absolutely no issues with them not digesting.

While "we" do not produce the enzymes needed to digest the chitin in mushrooms some bacteria and fungi do produce these enzymes.
2 years ago
One of the simplest ways of growing oyster mushrooms is with paper.  My first attempt was with paper and cardboard in pill bottles with some blue oyster mushrooms that I bought at the grocery store.




I just boiled the paper, squeezed out the excess water and packed it into layers in the pill bottles with a thin slice of oyster mushroom between each layer of paper.  The more mushroom to substrate the quicker the mycelium can take over the substrate and the less likely you are to have issues with contamination.  I then drilled some small holes in the sides of the pill bottles and placed some medipore cloth tape over the holes.  Then I put them inside a coffee can with the lid on it and put on a shelf not far from the fireplace where it stay around 65 to 75F and just kept checking them regularly until the paper was all grown in white with mycelium.

I took them out of the can and put them under a suspended upside down bag near a window in my bedroom where it stays about 55F and just misted some water in there several times a day to keep the humidity up and voila..  My first mushroom growing success...  Was nice after so many failures and after buying materials so many times.  This was cheap and effective..

I then took my grown oyster mushrooms and tried doing a bag of substrate with them and all looked good for a bit then it was taken over by mold and it all just rotted...  

From everything I have studied it seems the easiest and most successful oysters grown by newbies seem to be on straw, paper and sawdust or wood pellets.  Paper, and wood pellets being the most free of contagions and not requiring pressure cooking the substrate.  The straw and sawdust may need to be either pressure cooked or cold pasteurized with lime and water before you use it as it may have mold spore in it.
2 years ago