Caleb Mayfield

Another insulation option I have theorized but not tested is to take wood shavings like you can get as animal bedding, and treat it with lime. If you dampen the shavings first, then apply the lime, you can form the mix or pour it into a void. A similar mix is used in cordwood construction, and I'm hoping to test it for containers by making slabs to put between 2x4's bolted to the walls.

I have a 40 foot High Cube shipping container on my property that has my shop in 15 feet of one end and storage in the rest. Ventilation is critical. I cut a small opening in the end of the container and used 2x6's to frame it out. It has small windows on each side and a fan like this in the middle.
iLiving 12-Inch Wall Mounted Exhaust Fan with Variable Speed, 960 CFM, 1400 SQF Coverage Area, Silver https://a.co/d/0cTLvGVd

I built a frame that can tilt and put four 100 watt solar panels on the roof that charge four 6 volt golf cart batteries and powers everything I need in the container. I have two security cameras on the container, a weather station, and lights. I have a small mill and bench lathe and the only time I can't use them is in the winter when the temp gets below 20F.

There are a lot of ways to do it. If you cut holes in the walls you have to reinforce the wall since the shipping containers are designed to put all the load to the corners, then be stacked like blocks.
If you insulate, you need to use something like a closed cell spray foam or you will fight mold. Insulation like the pink fiberglass stuff or anything "loose" will draw moisture as the steel walls still condense moisture unless the surface is closed with a bond that cannot let humid air get to it at all.

For storage I built shelves on one side and install 24" deep pallet racking style shelves on the other side with a 48" aisle down the middle. You can also drill through the walls and bolt on boards like 2x6's to attach hooks or do a french cleat system.

I built a smaller RMH in our very old farmhouse and tied it into an existing brick chimney. I posted about it here on permies and the link is below. It might give you some ideas on bracing and construction options. It works incredibly well.

https://permies.com/t/95578/Farm-House-RMH-full-house

I'm starting bamboo on my homestead this year and did a lot of YouTube and web research. Really interesting stuff.
From what I understand, the easiest but longer way to get rid of bamboo is to cut it off at ground level. Then in the spring when the shoots come up, let them grow until the branches come out, but before the leaves do. Cut it off at ground level. Repeat each year for a few years till the root system is depleted and dead.

I would think you could contain running bamboo by going around the perimeter of you area with a shovel and just cutting into the ground to sever the runners, then letting the outliers sprout, cut them off just before leaf out, and letting the roots you don't want to just die off.
I think that's what I would try anyway.

I have recently embarked on a shoe making journey. Partly out of necessity at work and partly because I like to make things. Everything I can actually.
Last making is a big challenge with several options to produce them. If you do want to tackle last making or modifications, this playlist is one of the most comprehensive I've found on the topic.
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7VzDraQKY1eJmxGNbCW3pA50woay30jJ

Turn Shoes have a lot of similarities to these boots and I think the pattern making methods would carry over well. This is a good video on the overview of the process. I'm about 75% done with my first pair.
https://youtu.be/Lcdh7ISAmI8

One option to attach a rubber sole without adhesive is to do a recessed stitch through from a mid sole.
I really want to make a pair of these with a few modifications because it's nearly all natural products and can be repaired or replaced easily.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=4vkmJz5fTw0&feature=share

If you have a Red Wing Shoe store nearby I would recommend stopping in and taking a look at their Ultimate Fit Experience. They have a Volumental scanner that will take a full 3D scan/measurement of your feet as well as pressure mapping then email you the results. Red Wings might be out of your budget, but the scan will tell you what sizes would be a best fit in their shoes. They should have a really good idea on what sizes and fits will get you the snug heel and room around the toes. You might take a look at their King Toe and Tradeswoman boot lines.

Personally I'm making my own boots now out of leather. There are some really great YouTube channels out there now on making your own shoes. Doesn't sound like that's an option at this point for timeframe, but could be something to consider long term.

After nearly 3 years we are finally finishing the bench!!
Yes, we took longer than we planned to get here, but we have settled in with it, definitely love it, and don't want to make any changes so it's time to fill. I did not get photos of the main box filling, but it is a combination of silty/clay sand from the creek and large rocks. We did that up to the braces and then are using a 2:1 sand and high clay soil mix to top it. We put down about an inch and a half and then used 1/2" hardware cloth leftover from a chicken tractor build to provide some structural reinforcement before laying in the last 2 inches. Once dry we plan to seal it will BLO or Tung oil.

Sounds like we are somewhat in the same boat. I'm looking to do something similar, and can recommend the cordwood building books by Rob Roy. A floating slab would be an option. My aunt and uncle in Ohio bought a home that was built with Cordwood on a floating slab. Another option would be rubble trench.
Both of these options would require drainage and frost consideration.

One method I've been considering is to use a pier/pile/sonotube style feet for the frame and then a rubble trench to carry the cordwood and build it in a way that would take settling into account.

Congratulations on your well! Having had 4 major water outages myself in 2020 on our farm, and doing all the repairs myself, I am very in tune with water usage right now.
The idea of a cistern that overflows to a pond is a great idea. A means of capturing all the water for various uses is something a surprising number of people don't think about.
I'm not sure how things are in your neck of the woods, but where I live there are regulations that say only a licensed potable well installer can work on your well. Incidentally our system does not fit in any of the states definitions so I do my own work. That might be worth looking into if you haven't already.
Pitless adapter. Worth it.
What I do recommend is thinking through the system you want to end up with, and build that into whatever you do now. If that's confusing, what I mean is think through the system and add stub outs and extra connection points to make integrating an extra cistern, or another pump, or whatever, so when you need to make a change down the road it's really easy to do. I did that when I rebuilt the farmhouse water several years ago and I was thanking myself for it several times this past year.
Also, I recommend getting the pump you will grow into now. It's going to be the hardest to replace down the road. Adding solar panels, batteries or controllers at the top are world's easier than pulling 300' of pipe and and a pump.
Don't skimp on the pump. Looking forward to seeing what direction you go!

I'll have to watch the video later, but I'll throw in my 2 cents. I've field dressed (gutted) deer with everything from a 2" gerber folding knife to an 8" KaBar. What I learned is you can have too little and too much knife for the job. What works well on one animal may be inadequate for the next.
Personally, I like to get the animal dressed and chilled as quickly as possible. It makes a difference in the quality of the meat. The best knife is the one that you are comfortable with and is sharp. For deer, it's not necessary to split the pelvis or sternum, although it can make some tasks easier. But it's not necessary.
I harvested two deer this year and dressed both with a knife I forged, that's sharp enough to shave with. (Photo attached if I can get it to work from my phone)
The way I was taught and find most effective for the way we handle and process deer is to start at the anus, or vent if you prefer, and cut around it just through the skin. Once through the skin I begin working around it pulling the vent to one side and cutting until it pulls freely from the cavity. Some folks will use string or zip ties to tie it off so it doesn't drain anything out onto the carcass. I then split the skin from the anus up past the ribs until I can reach the esophagus at the other end. On this cut I try to be careful to only cut the skin and not the lining that holds in the organs. After cutting free the esophagus and all that comes through the front of the rib cage, I will then split the lining and peel the diaphragm so it's loose. At this point, if you did everything right you can reach in from the middle of the animal with one hand and grab the esophagus and then grab the intestine/colon right before it goes through the hindquarters with the other hand and pull everything cleanly out.
A rinse with a hose is a nice finish and then we hang the deer, weather permitting, for up to 14 days. Most of the time the weather only lets me get about 3-5 days of hanging before butchering.
And that turned into a far longer post than I thought.