Larry Monroe wrote:Something that just occurred to me, using copper pipe. put sand into it to prevent crushing, and wrap it around the riser put both ends into an open 55 gallon drum. make sure the exhaust is higher than the intake. the boiling water should create a siphon effect. causing it to create a heat sink in the drum and you can water your plants with the warmed water use a thermostatic controller to prevent scalding your crops. I see what you are doing. but wonder about how you are going to keep your soil at 75F for proper growth.
Hans Quistorff wrote:You appear to be trying to do what this man did on a smaller scale.
There are many more on the topic successes and failures.
gelu lacusta wrote:
Michael Baer wrote:
Peter van den Berg wrote:The reason why secundary air is added just before or even in the port is because pressure is lowest, and gas velocity is highest. Air will be sucked in at that spot most efficiently, violent turbulence just behind will cause adequate mixing of the combustible gases and fresh air. When you feed air in at a later stage this isn't mixed that well. To find out all this costs me the best part of a year, and I tried literally every configuration I could think of, including something similar to yours.
So the answer to your interpretation is, broadly speaking, yes. Feeding in air at high temperature (commonly 350º C or there about, being the self-combustion level of woodgas) is also very important, nicely done by p-channel or floor channel alike.
Hi Peter,
Thanks for your answer. The theme is always more interesting to me. Slowly I get behind the connections. It raises another question for me. As intended in the drawing, I intend to direct the combustion air through a DN 160 mm pipe into the walled wreath.
Is this ok or should the greenhouse be used for combustion.
Greeting Michael
Peter van den Berg wrote:
Michael Baer wrote:As intended in the drawing, I intend to direct the combustion air through a DN 160 mm pipe into the walled wreath.
Is this ok or should the greenhouse be used for combustion.
Please don't connect an outside air feed directly to the combustion core, you'll run into problems with the air distribution between primary and secundary air like that. I would prefer to use the air inside the greenhouse. That greenhouse is leaky as it is, it isn't a passive house, isn't it?
martyn parish wrote:Hi Micheal
I would like to add something to all the good advice on this this thread. I have built three rocket stoves and hope I can help a little.
The volume of each part of the stove is the critical factor. Each section of the construction should hold more volume of air than the last, if not you get poor air flow. It looks like the space above your internal chimeney riser between the enclosing drum/lid/barrel is too small. I would suggest either raising the drum, or shortening the riser. I had exactly this problem with my first rocket. The next ratio is the side space between the drum and the internal chimney riser. I use an 18 cm riser and 68 cm old oil barrels. This gives lots of space for the air at the top to fall to the exit pipe.
I agree with other comments about the exit pipe, it is too small in diameter. I estimate that with your current rocket dimensions your exit pipe must be at least 30 cm, but also the length of the pipe is too much and has too many angle bends. For best effect have a maximum of two angle bends. After each angle increase pipe diameter by about 20%. The pipe should be metal or ceramic. Not plastic or anything with a heat compustion temperature less than 200 degrees celcius!! Otherwise it can be very dangerous.
You could have the exit pipe not fully horizontal but at a few degrees angled up to encourage air flow in the right direction. Consider a 12 volt fan at the final outlet of the pipe. With these considerations you should be able to maximise the length of pipe in the ground, but it will require experimentation to see how much length you can have in this setup. I suggest buildling the rocket itself first without the exit chimney, test and get it burning well before adding the chimney pipes piece by piece to find the limits of your system. The performance will depend on some critical factors: ambient temperature and humidity, internal temperature and humidity (a rocket already warm inside will light much faster than a cold one, so the first time you light it is normally the most difficult), also the airflow into the greenhouse must be sufficient to keep the fire alight. An external cold air inlet tube is a good idea I think.
It takes some time to understand these little miracles and it it working, but it's well worth it! So have fun my friend!
If you have any further questions I am happy to help
Pascal Paoli wrote:Hi Michael,
falls du etwas übersetzt brauchst, schreib es hier rein. Der Luftzug wird z. B. nicht mit "train" (wie zug) sondern mit "draft" übersetzt. Das sollte dir vielleicht weiterhelfen. Updraft ist z.B Luftzug nach oben.