Michael Baer

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since Dec 23, 2016
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Recent posts by Michael Baer

Larry Monroe wrote:Something that just occurred to me, using copper pipe. put sand into it to prevent crushing, and wrap it around the riser put both ends into an open 55 gallon drum. make sure the exhaust is higher than the intake. the boiling water should create a siphon effect. causing it to create a heat sink in the drum and you can water your plants with the warmed water use a thermostatic controller to prevent scalding your crops. I see what you are doing. but wonder about how you are going to keep your soil at 75F for proper growth.



Good morning Larry, Thank you for the advice. I have now received so many ideas and am creating a concept for me.
On 08.02. I am back in Germany and will start to insulate the foundations with 30 mm Styrodur plates.
In the next step, I will install a ground collector in 40 cm depth.
For this I will install a d 100 mm PVC pipe on each side of the gables. These two pipes are connected with 32 mm PE pipes. The distance between the 32 mm pipes is 100 mm.
The warm air in the upper part of the house is passed through the collector and will heat the ground. I hope this will work.
Greeting Michael
2 years ago
Hello Erica, Hello Satamax,
I thank you for your advice and opinions.
After ample consideration, I have come to the following opinion which I will try to implement.
First I will reduce the diameter of the riser to 120 mm. So I hope the stove will burn better. I will derive the exhaust gases directly over roof.
With regard to warming the soil, I will transport the warm air in the upper part of the house with a fan into the collector pipes. In addition, I intend to have a heat exchanger at the chimney and the stove
To radiate this radiated heat into the ground. I'm curious if this works.
In any case, I will report here no matter whether I achieve success or failure.
Best regards
Michael
2 years ago

Hans Quistorff wrote:You appear to be trying to do what this man did on a smaller scale.

There are many more on the topic successes and failures.



Good morning Hans,
Thanks for the video. This reflects my thoughts again and encourages me that it will work. Super I think the idea with the water. Unfortunately, my greenhouse is not so big that I could implement it.
Now only the question of the dimensions of the furnace is concerned.
I hope I get an answer.
Best regards
Michael
2 years ago
Hello,
I have again in line with Zeros Rocket StoveTries to draw a housing. I have left the cross-sections. Starting point is with me the riser, which is from a pipeFrom fire stone. I think the round shape is fluidicCheaper than the square one. When looking at the surface, Zero has a difference from the riser to the combustion chamber of 5.7 cm². In my suggestion it is 8 cm². Can this work? This is what it should have been for this year.
In the hope of further good ideas and suggestions

I WISH ALL FORIANS A HEALTHY AND SUCCESSFUL YEAR 2017
IN GERMANY WE SAY
"SLIPS WELL"

Michael
2 years ago
Hello Glenn, Peter and Larry,
Thanks for your opinions, I believe
Due to the heat I need, a batch box is not considered. This system produces a great heat and is intended for greetings rooms. Since I am a greenhouse, which I want to heat from February to May and requires rather low temperatures, I come to the conclusion that a Rocket Stove is the right one. Also I can here, as already tried pellets which guarantee me a long burning time, for example overnight. To do this, I need to rebuild my system so it works.
Larry; This post I know.
But I did not have any connections with regard to combustion, etc.
Now I'm a little further.
Please look at the picture. These are my thoughts on soil heating. Your opinions and the other Juser is very important to me.
Thank you Michael
2 years ago

Hi Peter,
I have times tried to make a drawing as I imagine the new furnace. Everything is made of fire stone thickness 30 mm
Http://www.schamotte-shop.de/Schamotterohr-DN120-x-300mm
Http://www.schamottshop.de/index.php/cat/c40_Schamotteplatten-25-35-cm-Laenge.html/page/2
Where a <?> Is unclear to me.
Can you please say something about it.
I thank myself.
Best regards
Michael
2 years ago

gelu lacusta wrote:

Michael Baer wrote:

Peter van den Berg wrote:The reason why secundary air is added just before or even in the port is because pressure is lowest, and gas velocity is highest. Air will be sucked in at that spot most efficiently, violent turbulence just behind will cause adequate mixing of the combustible gases and fresh air. When you feed air in at a later stage this isn't mixed that well. To find out all this costs me the best part of a year, and I tried literally every configuration I could think of, including something similar to yours.

So the answer to your interpretation is, broadly speaking, yes. Feeding in air at high temperature (commonly 350º C or there about, being the self-combustion level of woodgas) is also very important, nicely done by p-channel or floor channel alike.



Hi Peter,
Thanks for your answer. The theme is always more interesting to me. Slowly I get behind the connections. It raises another question for me. As intended in the drawing, I intend to direct the combustion air through a DN 160 mm pipe into the walled wreath.
Is this ok or should the greenhouse be used for combustion.
Greeting Michael



Hi Peter,
Thank you for your efforts. You mean the stove is to 70 cm sub sol and the smoke exit to 50 cm sub sol. Unfortunately, this is not possible from the effort. I have already resigned myself that I can not use the smoke gases directly. I will direct the air through the pipes. Then it will take longer until the ground is warmed.
I would now only build a reasonable oven with which I reach long burning times and which possibly does not smoke. Good is a solution in which I could also burn pellets. The combustion chamber is to be made of fire stone.
Michael
2 years ago

Peter van den Berg wrote:

Michael Baer wrote:As intended in the drawing, I intend to direct the combustion air through a DN 160 mm pipe into the walled wreath.
Is this ok or should the greenhouse be used for combustion.


Please don't connect an outside air feed directly to the combustion core, you'll run into problems with the air distribution between primary and secundary air like that. I would prefer to use the air inside the greenhouse. That greenhouse is leaky as it is, it isn't a passive house, isn't it?



Hi Peter,
I have two more questions that seem important to me. There are <BR> burner (batch box) and <J> burner Rochet Stove. If I correctly understood the RS burns very slowly How is the combustion speed with the BB. I could imagine that because of the large combustion chamber a faster combustion takes place.
Since I would like to use the container further. Is the next consideration interior life 4 "or 5" from fire stone.
If a stone strength of 1.18 "is sufficient or if stronger material is used.
Is the existing flue gas output sufficient for 4 or 5 "?
Best regards
Michael
2 years ago

martyn parish wrote:Hi Micheal
I would like to add something to all the good advice on this this thread. I have built three rocket stoves and hope I can help a little.

The volume of each part of the stove is the critical factor. Each section of the construction should hold more volume of air than the last, if not you get poor air flow. It looks like the space above your internal chimeney riser between the enclosing drum/lid/barrel is too small. I would suggest either raising the drum, or shortening the riser. I had exactly this problem with my first rocket. The next ratio is the side space between the drum and the internal chimney riser. I use an 18 cm riser and 68 cm old oil barrels. This gives lots of space for the air at the top to fall to the exit pipe.
I agree with other comments about the exit pipe, it is too small in diameter. I estimate that with your current rocket dimensions your exit pipe must be at least 30 cm, but also the length of the pipe is too much and has too many angle bends. For best effect have a maximum of two angle bends. After each angle increase pipe diameter by about 20%. The pipe should be metal or ceramic. Not plastic or anything with a heat compustion temperature less than 200 degrees celcius!! Otherwise it can be very dangerous.
You could have the exit pipe not fully horizontal but at a few degrees angled up to encourage air flow in the right direction. Consider a 12 volt fan at the final outlet of the pipe. With these considerations you should be able to maximise the length of pipe in the ground, but it will require experimentation to see how much length you can have in this setup. I suggest buildling the rocket itself first without the exit chimney, test and get it burning well before adding the chimney pipes piece by piece to find the limits of your system. The performance will depend on some critical factors: ambient temperature and humidity, internal temperature and humidity (a rocket already warm inside will light much faster than a cold one, so the first time you light it is normally the most difficult), also the airflow into the greenhouse must be sufficient to keep the fire alight. An external cold air inlet tube is a good idea I think.
It takes some time to understand these little miracles and it it working, but it's well worth it! So have fun my friend!
If you have any further questions I am happy to help



Hello Martyn,
Thank you very much for your critical comments regarding my design. As I said I had not found any information that helped me in questions of the dimension. Now it looks different thanks to this forum. Also, there are many forians who try to help me.
At the moment I am still on vacation and I use the time as much as possible ask questions and collect information. What is certain for me, however, is that I remove the entire inner metal structure and realize the inner life with shamotine stones. The outer cover of the container sol remain. I am considering a 4 "or 5"
Furnace to build. If the smoke outlet is 6.3 "sufficient for this size.
Greeting Michael
2 years ago

Pascal Paoli wrote:Hi Michael,
falls du etwas übersetzt brauchst, schreib es hier rein. Der Luftzug wird z. B. nicht mit "train" (wie zug) sondern mit "draft" übersetzt. Das sollte dir vielleicht weiterhelfen. Updraft ist z.B Luftzug nach oben.






Hello Pascal,
Thanks for your offer. And here at once a feast; How is batch box or batch box rocket stove translated. Rocket Stove is the rocket furnace or?
Greeting Michael
2 years ago