Carla Williams

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since Jan 16, 2017
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Recent posts by Carla Williams

Henry Jabel wrote:If they are getting very shaded out you might want to consider pruning the apple trees, if your northern hemisphere and it is not likely to freeze too badly where you are you can start it now.



Which leads to a pruning question, if course! So the main tree is probably about 30 years old, I'd guess. (We've only had the property for four years.)  The tree has mostly western exposure, with some dappled afternoon light later in the afternoon once the sun clears the house.  I've been pruning for about 2 years, the first year probably too aggressively. So now we have picked of 10' tall water sprouts with 2" diameters.

Reading pruning books, most recommend a multi-year regimen to keep the sprouting to a minimum. So I'm thinking about taking the top right main leader down at the fork for 2017. That branch probably has a 12-14" diameter, so I'm nervous taking it out will harm the tree.

I'd like to bring the canopy down for easier harvest, but the other issue we have is that the drip line probably has a 12' radius sticking out into the side yard. That area is the only access we have to the back yard, so we also need head clearance.

It's a lovely tree planted in a less than ideal spot. I'm hoping to keep it, rehab it to a more manageable size, and break the pest cycle. Pruning/thinning, companion planting, and possibly nematodes along with the molasses lures were my thoughts. I just don't want to kill the tree!
8 years ago
Wow, great job! Lovely place and adorable kiddos.
8 years ago
I think the key is balance. Yes, watching sugar load is important, but also manageable by selecting varieties with season extension in mind.

We've been converting our 1/2 acre zone 8a system over the past two years. Where we once had only apples, pears, peach and a small shady area for annuals, we now have a much more diverse perennial garden.  Our fruits start with honeyberry in spring, making way incrementally through the season with strawberry,  currant, huckleberry, blueberries, blackberries, cherry, fig, goumi, aronia, grapes, nashi pear, apple, plum, jujube, and kiwi. In spring, we're adding European pear, persimmon, quince, mulberry, cranberry, saskatoon, gooseberry, jostaberry, autumn olive, pawpaw, cornus mas, cornus kousa, and figoa. These all ripen at different times, so we have small amounts of fresh fruit from April through December, and can share some and preserve the rest for winter.

But fruit is only part of a system. We grow a wide variety of annual vegetables from leafy greens and brassicas to corn, corcubits, root crops and night shades. For perennials, we have asparagus, artichoke,  olive trees, pepper trees and rhubarb. We're adding a bay tree, tea tree, sasssfras, hazelnut, heartnut, and Siberian pea shrubs.  We'll be adding in chickens in 2017 too, so surpluses will be well taken care of and converted into protein.

The trick is to use your design to stretch production with season extenders, and use you edges and sun budget thoughtfully. Martin Crawford's Creating a Forest Garden is a great resource.
8 years ago
Thanks. I'll give companion planting a try again. We put in some hyssop, borage and mints last year, but they got pretty leggy and weak from all the shade. Maybe plant them out closer to the drip line where they'll get more sun, and add in the smaller flowered plants. Great tip!

Carla
8 years ago
Hi there,

We have 4 gorgeous mature apple trees in our yard. They're beautiful and produce like gangbusters, but the oldest one in particular is really hit hard every year with apple maggot, and to a lesser extent with codling moth. By harvest time, its apples are nearly entirely inedible.

We're working to break their cycles picking up the fallen fruit, and had terrific inroads last year with homemade milk jug lures we made from molasses, vinegar and ammonia.

Now that we're gearing up for spring, I'd like to do some early management as they emerge from the soil, before they reach the canopy and fruit.

Has anyone here applied nematodes under their trees? I've read some extension office stuff on using them as controls, but haven't seen much info one way or the other about how using them as a biological control affects other soil organisms. I like beneficial insects. I don't want to bumble my way into creating a bigger problem than I'm trying to solve.

Anyone with experience using nematode products?

Thanks,

Carla
8 years ago