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Duane Hylton

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since Feb 14, 2017
North Alabama
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Recent posts by Duane Hylton

thomas rubino wrote:Hi Duane;
Which ceramic blanket did you use?  
Some is highly dangerous ,with fibers coming off and sticking to our lungs.
Some , easily available Morgan Super Wool, is completely safe. (there are other brands as well) It is also expensive.

I can say that my Morgan SW riser after 1.5 years , other than feeling a little hard on the surface, is in excellent shape.
It was completely safe when I installed it and I'm sure it still is. I'm moving it from an 8" J tube to a 6" batch
I would use one in smoker anytime.



I used 1" blanket from Walmart. I wore a dust mask while cutting and placing the blanket and once the Satanite is applied there is zero chance for the fibers to go anywhere.

The ceramic fiber blanket itself is more than durable enough by itself in a riser, but for those that don't want the fibers going airborne for whatever reason this is a solution that improves the heat staying in the flame path better than the blanket by itself. It's just another refinement that some may choose to adopt if they like the idea.
2 months ago

William Bronson wrote: This seems very cool.
How hard was it to apply?
I can't help thinking that the inside of a riser is a pretty tight space.



It wasn't hard at all. If you lightly mist the ceramic fiber the Satanite paste goes on about like wall plaster.

The inside of the 5" riser is a little tight but it's enough to fit my hand and the back side of a soup spoon to apply the paste to the walls. Laying the riser on its side makes it pretty easy.
2 months ago
I love the 5 minute riser. I have to thank whoever thought this up and they should be blessed for introducing us to something with both durability and ease of construction. Recently I've seen here and on donkey's board that folks are concerned with using the 5 minute riser in black oven applications because of the risk of the ceramic fibers breaking free into the fire path and being deposited into their food. Well I have a solution that builds on the 5MR concept that improves heat retention in the riser as well as sealing the riser to eliminate any chance of fibers escaping.

I did this with my riser and after 20 some odd firings, some of which were as hot as I could get the stove, the inner surface of my riser is still perfect. The addition is a coating of refractory material called Satanite that I purchased here: High temp tools: refractory products. It is mixed with water to a mayonnaise consistency and spread on the ceramic fiber. It is better to do it in two or three thin layers than one thick layer and one pound will do two good coats in a 5 inch ID riser 24 inches long with some to spare for touchups. I mixed it in several small batches because I couldn't estimate the amount needed to do one layer and the stuff tends to be sensitive to working time. I found it best to mix only what I could spread in 5 minutes or so, which meant four batches per layer.

The Satanite dries to a hard plaster like material that then needs to dry for at least 24 hours but I gave it 48 just to be sure. Then you heat it up a little at a time to drive out the trapped water. I used a propane torch to do this in about 8 passes. Each time it began to steam I'd stop and let it cool down, then do it over again. The last time I heated it up for about 15 minutes and no more steam was seen escaping. After that I did some light fires in the rocket stove for the next 5 firings. After that I paid it no more attention other than to marvel at the heat retention and durability under intense heat.

I hope this helps anyone needing a better environment for a black oven or just a high heat retention riser.
2 months ago
Wow! Love the pictures of the sauna.

The ceramic fiber paper liner may buy you some added life to the steel of your stove. I'm not clear on how you will attach it to the inside of the metal tubing. The 4" tubing may not allow for enough energy production for "sauna" like heating. But by all means keep us posted.

You may want to look up the 5 minute riser, and think on those lines for building a larger unit and making the firebox out of two 4" pieces and expecting them to be disposable when they start to succumb to the intense heat. Only the firebox needs to be durable because of the contact with the wood which abrades ceramic fiber quickly.
3 months ago
I suspect there isn't a clear simple answer to your question. Not all clays are equal. But first, perlite is a natural product, just the process is not natural, it's just puffed granite. There are other products like light weight lava pebbles, vermiculite which is puffed quartz. The size of the grains of perlite or any of the others is important, smaller is better and consistency is key. If you want to make it a little easier to get consistent quick results you can add up to about 15% portland cement, or better "quick set" cement, but quick set is harder to find as just cement without sand and gravel premixed in the bag. Quick set is also known as Calcium Aluminate. Or you could use some firebrick mortar but it usually contains some sand so you may need up to 25%.

What you'll have to do to get the right mix is to experiment. I'd start with 50/50 mix and see if it will stand up to the heat of your system. Make sure to pack the mix as well as you can into the mold. Any loosely packed areas will fail quickly.

Now to take you in another direction: many folks, myself included, have found that ceramic fiber blanket with or without rigidizer can make a very cheap and effective riser. Just get a 1" thick blanket and roll it up to line the inside of a black or galvanized stove pipe of the right size.
5 months ago
From the dimensions that you give the size probably isn't the issue. I'd guess that there is some combustion issue and may be as simple as your flue is uninsulated, or isn't long enough, or doesn't go high enough over the roof line, to provide good draft.
5 months ago
This sounds like a great project. Please keep us informed on your progress.
1 year ago
Hi Denise, and R Spencer,

From the building code:

A standard fire box must have a depth of 20 inches minimum.

A Rumford exception allows 12 inches, but at least 1/3 of the width.


You can read the NJ version here:New Jersey Code
1 year ago
You mention that your fireplace gets narrower towards the back.

So I have two questions:

1) Is the fireplace also rather shallow (meaning from the opening to the back wall of the fireplace) when compared to a 'normal' fireplace?
2) If you look up inside at the ceiling of the firebox of the fireplace, is it tapered up and towards the back of the fireplace?

If yes to both of those then you have a Rumford fireplace and it would be well worth the cost of fixing the chimney. The Rumford is the only fireplace that I'm aware of that will yield a net positive heat for the room and house it is used in after taking into account air supply drafts and the like.

I have one that I built from a kit and it is amazing how much heat it produces. Usually a teepee type fire is built by leaning the logs / splits vertically against the back wall of the fireplace.
1 year ago