Bill Weible

Yes, the more I look at it the more I realize I have too many branches branching of the main scaffolds.  Especially the upper scaffolds that are shading and cutting air flow from the fruit below.  I appreciate the comments.

Thanks, Greg and Joylynn...I think I make too many heading cuts resulting in too much vigorous growth. And I may have too many scaffold branches coming off the main scaffolds.   The more I read it seems pruning is mostly a personal preference and, in the end, unless you really get to cut happy, you aren't going to kill the tree.  Just understand the basics and experiment a little.  Maybe this is a dumb question, but is there an age when a branch stops fruiting?  

Basically, I mean wider at the bottom narrower at the top...here is a picture (a little dark) of the whole tree as it stands now.  I also think it may be too "branchy" (is that a word), but I have trouble deciding which to take off, so I guess I leave too many.  Or do I?    This may make things clearer.      

Each late winter when I begin pruning my apple tree, I notice that the previous growth results in a "3 prong pitchfork" at the end of most branches.  And I've probably asked this before but can't find that post!  (Maybe at another site).  Anyway, I am looking for suggestions on how to prune these back or let them go?   Take of a particular one? Or two?  I have a picture that hopefully will help.   I'm trying to keep the tree in a natural shape, it is on M111 rootstock.  The tree is about 8 years old.  Thanks!

I got a little anxious and did cut back some of the crossing over and rubbing vertical growth.  I just don't want to over-prune as I have a bad habit of doing!   I'll see what other comments I get.  So warm here today, but it is not going to last.  Too warm, too soon.

Here is my tree with ugliness issues!  The tree has 2 varieties.  The main trunk (to the right in pic. Ugly_1) is a winter apple.  That gets very large (Wolf River?) and the other is a "cow dung" apple from my family homestead (we don't know the exact variety).   I had to lop off the central leader of the trunk on the right side because it died from Japanese beetle damage 2 years ago.  I had put netting over the entire tree this past summer to protect it from further Japanese beetle damage.  I didn't realize how much it influenced branch growth.  So, what kind of pruning to do to correct the shape of the trees?   See pictures attached. Thanks, Bill  

Just a follow up...  remove or head back...  see the picture, Thanks, Bill

May Lotito wrote:

... just pick one or two to keep. Once they start fruiting, the tip growth won't be so strong and the branches will be more horizontal. I think your tree already has a nicely spaced primary scaffold and just need to remove some of the excess lateral shoots.

Is there a suggested limit to the number of laterals coming off a scaffold.  I know giving them room for good air circulation and sunshine is important.  For me maximum production is secondary. I'd prefer less fruit if the result is higher quality.  

Thanks, Steve and Mary.  I think I will incorporate both of your suggestions.  

Steve, cut back the top to make the tree easier to maintain.  And let some branches just do their thing.

Mary, so in your edited picture (thanks) basically eliminate the yellow and keep the pink, a year one cut as per your diagram?  Do I have that right?  One thing I have learned is that even when heavily or badly pruned, trees just want to keep growing!   Thanks, Bill  

Here are several pictures from different angles and one from 2021. The secondary scaffold limbs at the bottom are about half as long as the trees height (about 17 feet).  Also, a pruned and unpruned branch, plus a question about fruit bearing spurs?  Is that what we see there?  For the tree top pic. I'm thinking of cutting it off at the red or yellow line based on a youTube video (skilcut) to slow the height, calling it a modified central leader.  Just cut back the top each year.  I really should already know how to do this pruning, but every winter I question myself.  I fear I am lopping off the fruit bearing parts of the trees, since the yield is low.  (Not many blossoms last spring).  Then again in recent years late frosts have been an issue. Or should I just let it go one year as it is, half-pruned (half-assed LOL) and pay CLOSE attention to how it bears this spring.  Ultimately, I'm asking... do I have too many secondary scaffolds and/or lateral branches?  Remove all water sprouts?  Do I need to be careful not to remove more than 1/3, which I may have done in the past.  Any other suggestions are welcome.  Thanks, I hope this is fairly clear. Bill   (This is a graft from the family homestead, we are not positive of the variety. Could be a red astraken (sp).  My father just said a cow took a dump and the tree grew, so we always knew it as the cowshit tree). If I'm asking too much I apologize.