Zachary Bertuzzi

Cathi Allen wrote:

Zachary Bertuzzi wrote:I think if anyone wants to get back into biking or just start, you should invest in a good bike. But before you buy a bike I’d recommend you go to a bike shop that will fit you. Tell them what type of biking you want to do (road biking, mountain biking, trail and gravel roads, city or commuting, etc). This will help them know if you’ll be riding more upright or “down in the drops” (drop bars)...
BUT you don’t need to spend a lot of moola on a bike. One thing that upped the comfort level for me initially was swapping out the handlebars for a more swept-back style. That being said, don’t be afraid to upgrade things like seats and handlebars, they make a huge difference!

Shortly out of college, more decades ago than I like to admit, I got a second job to pay for a paralegal program. Ended up staying at it long enough to have a good chunk extra, which I spent getting a new bike, that fit me right. It was down to two, and fortuitously the clerk advised me that, though it was a little more, the one bike was much more adaptable so that in the future I could change it up as needed without changing the entire bike out. This was because I had indicated an interest in possibly getting two bikes, one to be my street and stores bike and one to be a trail bike with light off trail capabilities for bike camping. With that good advise on an adaptable foundation, I've been able over the years to switch things like seats, handlebars, and tire types to suit my lifestyle and aging body. In the long run, I've saved hundreds, if not thousands, vs. randomly trying different bikes until one fit and switching bikes every time I needed something different.  

Wonderful!! A good frame should last nearly a lifetime and, as you said perfectly, upgrade as needed based on riding styles and needs. So glad to hear your story.
One thing I love about biking that coincides with the permaculture ethos is OBSERVATION. On a bike you can take in so much of the environment you’re traveling through. I’ve found plenty of plants and trees to collect great seeds, noticed plants that often grow together, micro climates that are home to plants and creatures only there, etc.

Katie See wrote:I have been riding my bike to work two to three times a week, but the other day when I was biking up a hill on my way home it suddenly just stopped. It’s something wrong with the pedals, and might not be able to be fixed. It’s my mom’s bike from college, so I guess I can’t be surprised, but it’s kind of a bummer.
I also am wondering, for people who have experience riding in the winter, (I live in Michigan) how well do the brakes work going downhill? Do you need special tires or anything? I’m just wondering if I’ll need to drive to work instead of biking.

Hi Katie

I ride all winter. Rim brakes are slightly less effective when wet, but if the pads are good and adjusted properly, you should be fine. Disc brakes work best in wet conditions. Tires with knobs, especially along the edge, are better than smooth road tires for winter. I’d check with a local bike shop and talk to them about where you’d be riding and I’m sure they would have a few suggestions for you. They might be able to give your bike a tune up for winter riding.
Your toes and fingers will be the first thing to get cold. I have winter biking gloves and always have hand and foot warmers during cold weather.

Overall, the biking industry is moving towards fatter tires, not necessarily FAT bikes, but larger tires. They’re more comfortable and stable.

Have fun!

I’ve been biking at least once per week for the past 6+ years. I bike exclusively for fun and camaraderie with friends. We bike through Michigan winters (and primarily in the evenings) despite single-digit temps. I’ve discovered so many biking subcultures and biking friends along the way. It certainly helps me to stay trim and fit… added bonus!

I think if anyone wants to get back into biking or just start, you should invest in a good bike. But before you buy a bike I’d recommend you go to a bike shop that will fit you. Tell them what type of biking you want to do (road biking, mountain biking, trail and gravel roads, city or commuting, etc). This will help them know if you’ll be riding more upright or “down in the drops” (drop bars).

From there (hopefully) they'll help you find a bike that’s COMFORTABLE. Don’t look for bikes that are cool or trendy.

I’ve finally dialed in my riding style based on where and how I ride… lots of gravel roads, two tracks, some single tracks, back roads, and occasionally paved rods through town. I saved up and sold a bunch of stuff to purchase my dream bike, a Rivendell Susie Longbolts. It’s ideal for upright riding and has enough clearance for BIG tires to take on all the off roading I do. Very pricy but it’s a bike I’ll never sell and ride constantly. I’ve gone through a lot of bikes over the years and by far the Rivendell is the most comfortable bike I’ve ever ridden.

BUT you don’t need to spend a lot of moola on a bike. One thing that upped the comfort level for me initially was swapping out the handlebars for a more swept-back style. That being said, don’t be afraid to upgrade things like seats and handlebars, they make a huge difference!

Good luck to everyone. And remember, biking has the potential to take you back in time to when you were a kid!

Had the same problem. The problem ended up being the exhaust fan wasn’t rated for the bathroom size. The exhaust fans have a CFM rating that’s relative to the sq footage of the bathroom. Make sure you get something equivalent or slightly more. I got a CFM rating that was rated for a bit bigger of a bathroom. The other nice part of the fan is it has a blue light that’s supposed to help kill mold and bacteria.
We sprayed white vinegar on the ceiling and scrubbed the mold off. There’s an anti-mold paint specifically for bathrooms too.

Good luck!

As far as gloves, I had trouble finding leather gloves that would last more than 3-4 months. Constantly searching for either cheapies or spending a little extra on deer hide, but the results are always the same.
This past November I got a pair of Vermont Gloves. Made in USA!!! Goat skin… supposed to stay softer and not crack. I got the beeswax and oil too. They’ve been awesome all winter. They are pretty expensive, but if I spend $50 every year on some that fall apart, I’m willing to spend the extra cash on a pair that will last.
They have good tutorials on their site that tell you how to care for them.
Good luck!

https://vermontglove.com/

Cade.
I’ve read a few things about using damp sand for this technique. Not wet. The damp sand is supposed to prevent the veggies from drying out (don’t need any shriveled up carrots). Too wet and they’re likely to rot or as you said sprout.
The burlap was to allow air flow from the vents and prevent sand from pouring out.

This technique is new to me but proven for hundreds of years. Always an adventure!

Thank you, Christopher! I was hoping there was a term I could search for this storage technique. Ive got a good deal of reading and video watching to fill the rest of winter now.

Hello friends

Years ago my wife's grandfather told me about how his family used to store vegetables, like carrots, in a pile of sand over winter. I thinking about giving it a shot... but in a different way. My thought is to build a large box, line it with burlap (filled with damp sand of course) put vent holes in the sides and top, and then insulate the outside wall and top with bales of straw. This would be in my unheated pole barn and hopefully keep it from freezing. I'm in zone 5b/6a. So it get's pretty cold here.

My question to y'all is, has anyone done the sand storage or any variations similar to my idea? Or if you know of any videos you could send me links to, that would also be appreciated.

thanks!

APBs are great and I’ve been using them for nearly 5 years. One thing I’ve found is that not all trees respond well to growing in them. Northern red oak in particular seem to have stunted growth when starting them in APBs. I have a large batch of them that are only 4-5” tall after 2+ years.

Another thing I’ve realized is that only certain trees need to be grown and in them. Mostly trees with taproots. Everything else I start in raised beds/mounds and they seem to do quite well when transplanted.

I’ve come up with a few different ways to build them, but like previous comments, if they’ll be situated over grass or soil you should give them at least 10” between the bottom of the bed and the ground. Moles and other critters can find them to be great places to hide under and then pile up soil that the trees will grow into.

Hope that helps. Good luck!

Hey Greg! I’d love and greatly appreciate if some of that seed ended up my way! Is there a way I can send you my address and info in a less public way?