Erica Wisner wrote:I was thinking along the same lines as Larry, but maybe using larger irrigation pipe (you can get 2" diameter with some flexibility, reasonably priced), so you can flush your greywater directly away and not store/handle it.
The same laws that condemn urine (which IS almost always considered "black water" and sewage), and what comes out of the sink, tend to be very prohibitive about unlicensed "handling" of sewage. So if you can plumb the trailer to the sewer line, instead of handling a honey cart, you'll probably be in even better shape for legal concerns.
For handling, I do like the idea of using what the RVers and boat folks have already tested and proved out. This is not a new problem, just new to you.
Leaving aside the question of whether killing everything in your sewage is a good idea (i don't think it is, for so many reasons...),
I don't think chemicals will completely do away with the smell.
Ammonia from rotting urine is the strongest odor, and it will still be present even after strong chemicals kill the bacteria. So will fat-bound odors like putrescine and BO, for the most part.
Not all bacteria is bad (far from it), and not all sterilized water smells good.
It usually smells like the chemicals (chlorine, iodine), plus any "deodorizers"/perfumes, plus a good part of whatever it smelled like before.
It is still somewhat toxic too, it just won't give you typhoid, cholera, giardia, or other forms of dysentery.
Boiling or UV-sterilization are the least-toxic ways to treat potable water, and there is not much point to boiling sewage... not only would it stink, but the nutrient content would attract airborne bacteria, and things would be back in action within hours.
UV-sterilization is sometimes used as the final stage for very clear water, but would not work reliably on cloudy/chunky/nutrient-dense material (light just breeds algae in those conditions).
With chunky grey water with food particles, possible grease, and very high nutrient content, I suspect you'd have a hard time totally rinsing down the sides to the point where your material would be disease-free, let alone odor-free.
I'd definitely go for more frequent emptying, or an instant-empty drain pipe (maybe equipped with a gluck-tolerant bilge pump or what Larry recommended, if it's an uphill run to the nearest sewer access).
The idea of using grey water to water plants, etc. is still workable.
You don't have to let it go down the drain first.
I have a greywater sink, but sometimes collect water in a bucket at my feet to take to other parts of the garden on the other side of the house.
There is no law against rinsing your dishes into a dishwater pan instead of down the drain, as far as I know.
There is no law against brushing your teeth and spitting outside... at least I don't think there is.... nor about how to dispose of "spitoon" contents if you do happen to live where public spitting has been outlawed.
There is no law against rinsing a dish into a potted plant, or peeing on one for that matter, as far as I know. (I don't recommend peeing directly on indoor plants, however, unless they are getting a LOT of water in fairly short order... most places recommend 10:1 or 20:1 water to urine for plant fertilizer.)
I sometimes make "fertilizer" for my houseplants, up to a few times a year. I won't go into further details, but it seems to work.
If you do end up using the tank-and-tote method as you first outlined, I personally would favor getting a fairly small tank, so you have to empty it more frequently, and its easier to transport/get rid of if you end up moving to a different landlords' place some time. Then play games with yourself (within the bounds of reason and your agreements) to see how little water you can allow down the drain. If you are using a lot of water you'd empty it daily/every other day. If you get creative about minimizing water use, and re-using mostly-clean water in appropriate ways, you might be back down to emptying once a week, but a lot smaller job.
Final note: As far as I know, all sewer connections and septic system connections are supposed to have vents / "stand-pipes," because the decomposition of household waste in sewage can cause gas bubbles.
You don't want the plumbing to build up back pressure into the house.
For the same reason, I'd recommend against trying to make the tank 100% airtight.
Vent it above your roof, or at least outside your space, or it will vent itself up your drains (and I imagine that's exactly where you DON'T want the smell). Make sure that the vent is big enough that liquids "burp" into it, rather than rising up it.
Sometimes boat and RV toilets have a close-off or check valve, as an added preventer against odors and back-flow.
Lot of water has gone under this bridge already... so to speak. good luck with finding a solution that makes you, and your landlord, happy and satisfied.
Peter VanDerWal wrote:
Ryder Spearmann wrote:
I'm wondering, why would it smell in an air tight container?
Also, can't something be added to prevent the bacteria and prevent smell?
(fires, earthquakes, etc)
The bacteria are in the water already, as is other biological material that the bacteria will feed on, and oxygen dissolved in the water. However, the really stinky bacteria don't need oxygen (anarobic bacteria).
Can you prevent the bacteria from growing? Sure, you can keep the water heated above 130 deg F, or near freezing, or add poisons/chemicals, or use a UV light, etc.
Is there any particular reason the LL won't let you use it to water trees, bushes, etc.?
Angelika Maier wrote:There are pumps for greywater but after a week it will smell tremendously. Can't you simply pump it off every day?