Mark Richards

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since May 08, 2018
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Permaculture Enthusiast with a few years experience in Urban Gardening in Hungary.
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Maryland and Budapest
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Recent posts by Mark Richards

I've got a question about how much you think urban food gardens (and market gardens) can mitigate climate change. While I see their advantage for food access and well-being for concrete dwellers, also a nice biodiversity habitat boost, I'm wondering if the focus on 'extraction' (organic or not) and reliance on water and compost imputs actually brings down any carbon, stores water or cools the city in the long run. Wouldn't we city folk be better served by an edible forest than a veg plot? Does your book touch on this at all?
4 years ago
Great idea and a very interesting post. I just put in a much smaller greenhouse with a stone thermal mass at the bottom.
I also installed a small hose to keep water spillage down, but it leaked.
I think the extra evaporation was 'cooling' the stones while they were wet.
How much do your open tanks cool the air from evaporation?
I don't know the physics, just curious about what cooling affect open water sources have.
Thanks for sharing your trip!
5 years ago
For logos, you have to make sure it's 'readable' at small and large sizes.
The lightbulb is great for all sizes but the W gets lost at small sizes.
I like Nicole's dandelion leaves, but I would bump up the W a bit more to make it strong even small.
IMHO.
I also found a guy online who seeded a TOH with mushrooms, to slow stress it, I guess so it doesn't give off shoots.
Since we don't have the means to rip out the dead trees, I'm thinking it might be possible to girdle some, then when they look dead, try the mushrooms, maybe eventually improving the rockhard soil where it is.
It's growing through a layer of parking lot gravel. Anybody try mushrooms with these?
6 years ago
This is a great showcase. A lot of pollinators. Is this going to be organized somehow?
I've got a collection of a couple hundred or so pictures that I'd like to see organized by eco-services or plant relationships instead of biological classification.
BTW: You don't need an expensive zoom, if you can find a decent magnifying glass to hold out in front of your lens.

The way I understand the pollination/beneficial situation for gardeners and farmers goes something like this:
Honeybees are efficient pollinators, but usually stick to one or two sources for a season. So they're good for monocultures and near trees and orchards.
Bumblebees are the best all-around pollinators because they have lots of hairs and are the sloppiest eaters. They have to visit a lot of flowers everyday. They have really long tongues to get into flute flowers. Like all 'wild' bees they like the edges.
Solitary bees like Masons, carders, diggers, furrow and leaf-cutter bees are great generalists, too. They live in walls, wood or the ground. Good for medium and large sized flowers but they can work the tiny flowers on any umbels that can hold them up.
There are lots of tiny parasitic wasps that need those umbels with the tiny flowers (like the parsley family). Some of these wasps lay eggs in pests like stinkbugs and caterpillars,
Cuckoo bees pollinate the small flowers but their larvae eat their host bee larvae.
Yellow and black wasps are general predators of bees, flies, spiders and bugs. Some are good, some aggressive. No hair, so they don't pollinate much.
The yellow and black striped, smooth-skinned flies (colored like wasps) are Hoverflies. The hairless adults eat nektar or pollen, but their larvae eat as many aphids, sometimes mosquito larvae in water, as voraciously as ladybugs.
Ladybugs and Lacewings are great for aphid control, both in adult and larvae stages. Neither really pollinate (no hairs).
Butterflies and moths are okay pollinators, but their babies can be voracious caterpillars. Not bad if you have birds or big wasps.
Dragonflies are tyrannosaurus of the sky. They can eat anything flying, and lots of them.
There are also types of parasitic fly that stick their eggs on bugs and beetles, which soon hatch and turn the pest into lunch, keeping their populations down. I don't think they're major pollinators, but beneficial.
And Ground Beetles are pretty hungry for slug eggs, fallen plantbug eggs, anything near the ground at night.

The big obstacle is their number and variety depending on where you live. Maybe one day.


6 years ago
J. Burkheimer! - I saw somebody on the net cutting slices around the tree to weaken it but not alarm it. However, they were then spraying some poison in the cuts. Do you fully girdle it? How wide of a strip has worked for you? I'm worried they all might be clones from one or two original trees.
By the way, they're allelopathy doesn't seem to affect mulberries (small ones). I found a small mulberry sprout growing almost on top of the trunk of a TOH, so I planted another nearby to test the 'allelopathicness'. If we get an edible bush that keeps their roots in check, it'll be nice.

These are all great observations and considerations. This thread is turning out to be very helpful.
6 years ago
Hi Everybody!
I'm working on an urban gardening project in Budapest, Hungary. We're converting a gravel lot to community garden with containers for now, but we're planning to do some major work in the fall after we've had a season feeling out the conditions. We've got a wall and a row of alianthus trees protecting us from a street, pollution and wind, as well as helping reduce noise. It's a tightly packed row of trees, about 15 years old, maybe younger because they grow fast, 4-6 inches in diameter in front of the wall.  I've discovered they eat sulfur dioxide from the air and take up mercury from the soil. Nice services for the city. We'd like to keep them for all those services, if we can. Replacing them would be costly. So my question is, how?
The downsides are that they smell like rancid peanut butter if damaged. They also produce an allelopath in the soil, and their roots are reputed to break walls and into sewer mains. They invaded the bombed cities of europe after the WWII.
We're considering a few options before cutting:

1) feeding them - maybe building an embedded raised bed along the wall, while cutting back the roots that reach out into the garden space, and filling above ground level with their somewhat annoying leaf litter over time, along with some compost. The idea being to give them food and they won't need to invade our veg beds. Hmm...?

2) coppice or pollard them - maybe every other tree could be coppiced to head height. Could this decrease the competition between them, for root space and sun? They tend to send out numerous suckers if cut down- this we want to avoid. We could coppice them all to wall height.

3) a transition trench - maybe we could cut a trench, fill it with the gravel we have, for a path along the row, and try to keep their roots cut back each year. It doesn't seem to stop them, but in combination with 1)feeding, they might be deterred.

4) a companion hedgerow - with a living hedge between them and our garden, we would have them up in the low canopy story and some kind of hedge story might insulate our soil from the allelopathy and make the space wonderfully insulated from the city. But what lives near these trees?

I've hardly any experience with these trees, or trees in general, so it's all theory to me at this point.
Anybody have any recommendations? or alternatives? Who anybody in their right mind try such an endeavor?

Thanks for any feedback,
Mark
6 years ago